Apparent lack of power to hub motor

[Woosh]

agreed. On balance of probabilities, I reckon it's brake binding.

 

[Nealh]

Stu's should eventually find the issue with forum help, the forum has already helped him with the power/motor hub issue once he had under stood and taken the advice given. The advice to some seems trivial but experience tells us different especially with the julet connectors a couple of mm can make all the difference between partial or full electric contact.

 

[Nealh]

Regarding the wheel becoming tighter when Stu does the axle nut up more it could be pad/rotor alignment, in which case after tightening axle nuts undo the brake two calliper bolt fixings to the fork a turn or two. Apply the brake lever and at the same time re tighten the two bolts release the lever and spin the wheel to check for freewheeling if necessary repeat again.

 

[StuG]

Hi guys,

I think it is all now sorted .

Brakes were fine.

It was the brake disc side that was pinching the wheel when the nut was tightened. So I turned the hexagon shape bolt out a little away from the motor.

Doing this then made the opposite side pinch the wheel when tightened, so I put in part of a foam-like washer against the anti-rotation washer to fill it out.

Everything now is well tightened and the wheel moves freely. So I think the whole kit is now properly set up and ready, unless you think I haven't fixed it correctly?

Many thanks to you both for the help!

If I can just also ask. My frame is aluminium, should I look into getting a torque arm?

Cheers

 

[Benjahmin]

My frame is aluminium, should I look into getting a torque arm?

Yes. I've used these in the past.

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[StuG]

Yes. I've used these in the past.

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Great thanks!

 

[Woosh]

It was the brake disc side that was pinching the wheel when the nut was tightened. So I turned the hexagon shape bolt out a little away from the motor.

the hexagon nuts behind the anti rotation tab washer are called the cone and jam nuts. They need to be tightened against one another so they do not rotate when you tighten the wheel nuts.
If the jam nut is loosened, it can turn and in turn, allow the cone nut to turn, which then puts pressure on the ballbearings inside the motor lids which then caused the resistance that you found.

Make sure that the cone nut is held steady with a thin spanner while you tighten the jam nut.

If I can just also ask. My frame is aluminium, should I look into getting a torque arm?

The motor axle looks fine in your pictures.
the XF07 is light enough not needing torque arms. Make sure the the motor axle is well centered inside the jaws.

 

[StuG]

the hexagon nuts behind the anti rotation tab washer are called the cone and jam nuts. They need to be tightened against one another so they do not rotate when you tighten the wheel nuts.
If the jam nut is loosened, it can turn and in turn, allow the cone nut to turn, which then puts pressure on the ballbearings inside the motor lids which then caused the resistance that you found.

Make sure that the cone nut is held steady with a thin spanner while you tighten the jam nut.



The motor axle looks fine in your pictures.
the XF07 is light enough not needing torque arms. Make sure the the motor axle is well centered inside the jaws.

Thank you Woosh

 

[Nealh]

Hub motor's doesn't use cone and nut bearings the disc side one is a press fit sealed bearing which has a rubber dirt seal and washer, the inboard hex nut is mainly to keep the axle motor assembly in place but does act in keeping the rubber seal/washer in place against the bearing face.
I have in the past undone my rear cst hex nut a half turn to reduce the pressure on the bearing and t allow better freewheeling.

You may want to replace foam washer with a thin metal one or nylon one.