Anyone Know What This Is Called?

[Nealh]

Have to admit font size makes for more pleasant reading Chris, but what matters is what you are happy with.

 

[chris301up]

The individual brand-name addresses are irrelevant. It's EXACTLY the same company behind all the brands. The telephone number and email address is always the same and has been for years... if you ask Argos for technical support, buy a bike from Ideal World, or buy a Swifty ebike from Swifty on Amazon, it's exactly the same contact details:

support@ebikes.co.uk
01702 208188

Or use their live on-line chat.

Just an update. I've been in touch with EBikes as advised and they have suggested that the cut out issue is possibly due to the sensor ring being out of position? I don't think the displayer dimming will have anything to do with this personally? Anyway, I am intending spending a bit of time on the bike later today, if everything goes to plan, so will post my results. Thanks peeps

 

[sjpt]

I've dropped the font size down so lets see if that helps some?

Thank you, and good luck sorting the main issue of this thread.

Even if Stylebot is a bit too complicated, do try using ctrl,+ keys on websites if the font is too small for you.
(ctrl,0 to reset to default size).

 

[Nealh]

Yes nothing to do with a dimming display, as we have deducted it is a power outage/supply issue which includes shorting between the pcb pads.
Over the years these type of issues have occurred and all tend to lead to moisture affecting the display.

 

[chris301up]

Yes nothing to do with a dimming display, as we have deducted it is a power outage/supply issue which includes shorting between the pcb pads.
Over the years these type of issues have occurred and all tend to lead to moisture affecting the display.

Yes buddy. My thoughts exactly. I'll check the sensor ring first as a matter of course. making sure no magnets are missing also. I will have to strip everything down for access to the wiring as the connections look like they're enclosed in the controller box at the front of the battery enclosure? At least then I can check the connections, dry them out and apply some electrical contact cleaner. Nothing to loose, except some time.

 

[Nealh]

Once any wiring is exposed check the 5v line is reading 5v. Any peripheral part like PAS/throttle one can test with a meter simply using the 5v and gnd wire or via the thin motor hall wires if it is sensored. If any connector is a block type one can push the probes up the back of the wire.

 

[chris301up]

Once any wiring is exposed check the 5v line is reading 5v. Any peripheral part like PAS/throttle one can test with a meter simply using the 5v and gnd wire or via the thin motor hall wires if it is sensored. If any connector is a block type one can push the probes up the back of the wire.

Yes. I was thinking exactly the same. I will say I spent a little time yesterday checking the sensor and crank sensor ring. It had moved significantly. I added a thin nylon washer (spacer) to move them closer to each other and to help maintain position. There is 1mm gap between them now as recommended by EBikes. I've done this a couple of times with my other ebikes and it usually works well. Although this hasn't helped with the dimming problem at least that has given 'peach of mind' regarding this component.

I took the bike out for a brief spin and, as expected, the displayer went down to low within the first quarter of mile or so. It felt like the power had dropped slightly, but not entirely sure? Pushing the test buttons on the battery indicated that it was fully charged. But, of course, its not under load at this point. I am beginning to think this is more of a battery issue now?

 

[cyclebuddy]

I am beginning to think this is more of a battery issue now?

To eliminate that possibility, you could do a load test. What I would use is 3 x 40w 12-volt halogen lamps (the kind used in ceiling downlights) wired in series. That presents a comfortable load of about 4 amps. With your 7Ah battery, it should keep the lamps lit for maybe 1.5 hours - much less shows how worn your battery is.

Alternatively, you could open the battery and check individual cells/cell strings to see if any are bad/low.

That's always the trouble with buying secondhand: You never know how knackered the battery really is or how well the previous owner looked after it. Eliminating the battery from the equation would be a good step IMHO.

 

[chris301up]

To eliminate that possibility, you could do a load test. What I would use is 3 x 40w 12-volt halogen lamps (the kind used in ceiling downlights) wired in series. That presents a comfortable load of about 4 amps. With your 7Ah battery, it should keep the lamps lit for maybe 1.5 hours - much less shows how worn your battery is.

Alternatively, you could open the battery and check individual cells/cell strings to see if any are bad/low.

That's always the trouble with buying secondhand: You never know how knackered the battery really is or how well the previous owner looked after it. Eliminating the battery from the equation would be a good step IMHO.

That seems like a plan? I will have to go and buy some bulbs as I'm 'old fashioned' and only use proper bayonet bulbs in the house. LOL. I was thinking of using some car headlight bulbs for the load test earlier? You're correct about buying second hand and really have to take the sellers trust on what they tell you. Always risky! I have tried to locate a battery for this but haven't had any luck as yet. Also, didn't wish to spend such a great deal of money if the fault lies elsewhere and doesn't cure the problem. Thanks for your comments.

 

[matthewslack]

That seems like a plan? I will have to go and buy some bulbs as I'm 'old fashioned' and only use proper bayonet bulbs in the house. LOL. I was thinking of using some car headlight bulbs for the load test earlier? You're correct about buying second hand and really have to take the sellers trust on what they tell you. Always risky! I have tried to locate a battery for this but haven't had any luck as yet. Also, didn't wish to spend such a great deal of money if the fault lies elsewhere and doesn't cure the problem. Thanks for your comments.

If you measure the voltage every few minutes during the discharge test, you can plot the time-voltage curve which might tell you even more. Frequent readings in the early and late parts for best results.

 

[cyclebuddy]

You could use 12v car lamps if you have them kicking around. Obviously, the lamp wattage determines how long the battery should keep them going for.

Ebikes.co.uk sell replacement batteries for your Mantra here. At £280, it's not cheap for what it is though. There may be better on ebay, Ali, Amazon. But until you test what you have, you don't yet know if you need one.

EDIT: Here's a pic of what I use, 4 x 12v lamps for a 36v battery. You only need 3 for a 24v battery. If your multimeter has the facility, you can route through to monitor current, or if not, as matthew says, just monitor voltage.

 

[cyclebuddy]

I'm not suggesting you should buy a new battery, but you are currently advertising for one.

The cheapest I've found is here on AliExpress, if that helps. £106+£17 shipping. 24v 10.4Ah - so more capacity in the same case. Known reputable supplier on this forum: Yose Power. A lot less than ebikes.co.uk £280.

Only issue might be is it says it ships from Germany, although Yose Power do sometimes ship from within UK. Others here will probably know how Yose Power are now dealing with transit across boarders post-Brexit re. Taxes. Or you'd need to check yourself first.