Another mid drive

sjpt

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Jun 8, 2018
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the battery looks like generic. The controller is in a separate box. The speed sensor looks generic too.
I am puzzled about one detail. There is a wire going from the motor to the seat tube. What is it for?

Good a lot is generic.

I think the wire must be for heated saddle ... not sure if the setting for that is automatic as well to save fiddly controls.
 

vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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Basildon
that's angular speed (radians per second), not road speed though.
Come on, What school did you go to? The wheel rotates at a speed in radians per second in direct proportion to road speed - unless it's icy. In other words, for the same size wheel, the radians per second will be the same at 25km/h whether its a 40Nm, 60 Nm, 80Nm or 130 Nm torque. Power is radians per sec x Nm, so power at 130Nm is 325% of what itis at 40Nm. How can they all be 250w?
 
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Croxden

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Jan 26, 2013
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Amoto65

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Jul 2, 2017
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Sorry, Perhaps I'd be best just baiting Yorkshiremen. That's not racist. It's speciesist.
So by your own statement you admit the post about the French was racist, where as this one is just stupid, I suppose that is a step in the right direction (just).
 

Woosh

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May 19, 2012
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Come on, What school did you go to? The wheel rotates at a speed in radians per second in direct proportion to road speed - unless it's icy. In other words, for the same size wheel, the radians per second will be the same at 25km/h whether its a 40Nm, 60 Nm, 80Nm or 130 Nm torque. Power is radians per sec x Nm, so power at 130Nm is 325% of what itis at 40Nm. How can they all be 250w?
you may have a 130NM at the chainring but that's the maximum value, you don't have to use all of it. On flat roads, you may only need 10NM (at the wheels) to keep your bike at 25kph (10NM * 2 pi radians * 200 rpm/60s = about 210W). 10NW at the wheels =20NM at the belt ring.
On hills, you'll of course need more power.
 
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vfr400

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you may have a 130NM at the chainring but that's the maximum value, you don't have to use all of it. On flat roads, you may only need 10NM (at the wheels) to keep your bike at 25kph (10NM * 2 pi radians * 200 rpm/60s = about 210W). 10NW at the wheels =20NM at the belt ring.
On hills, you'll of course need more power.
I'm not sure what you're point is. Let's start again. They use torque as a figure to compare the assistance with these different crank motors. It's an arbitary figure, calculated in some weird way so that they can compare.

Bosch 40 Nm feels OK. It's a bit weak for heavy people and/ or steep hills.
BOSCH CX 80Nm feels powerful. Not many find it insufficient for anything. Clearly, it has a lot more power than the 40Nm one.
Valeo claim 130 Nm. I'm going to bet that it's noticeably more powerful than the Bosch CX.
All these motors are rated at 250w.

What I'm pointing out is that actual output power has gone up substantially from the introduction of the first 250w Bosch, yet they're still rated at 250W.

What about your first 250w bikes with 14A and 36v? Now you have a 250w 17A 48v kit, which has the same speed motor, and in the same circumstances with the same setting, it gives out 58% more power, approximately.

To summarise, I'm pointing out that we don't actually have a power limit. Manufacturers and sellers can rate their systems at whatever they want, as there is no regulation on how it should be done.
 
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Woosh

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it's simply and defined, you can wiki it if you like.
  1. the pedal-assist, i.e. the motorised assistance that only engages when the rider is pedalling, cuts out once 25 km/h is reached, and
  2. when the motor produces maximum continuous rated power of not more than 250 watts (n.b. the motor can produce more power for short periods, such as when the rider is struggling to get up a steep hill).
Electric bicycle - Wikipedia

The key word is 'continuous'. The consequence of that word is that the road test is on zero gradient.
to measure the continuous power, you can submit the bike to a road test at 25kph on a flat road or if you use a lab bench, you get 10% extra allowance.
Most torque sensored bikes give the same motor output with the same rider's input. To beat wind resistance at 25kph, you will need about 200W.
There is no way that an ordinary e-bike would exceed 250W under those conditions, even with a cadence sensor because of the speed limiter.
 
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vfr400

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Jun 12, 2011
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That wiki is completely out of date. The word "continuous" has been removed from the regulations.


Again, I'm not sure what your point is. I know and understand the regulations. It was me that explained to you that you weren't limited to 14A and 36v for your ebikes 9 years ago.
 

Woosh

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yes, I remember that conversation, and I had already had a hard time convincing Hatti the let me move from the first Sirocco from 10A to 14A.
 

MikelBikel

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Jun 6, 2017
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Good a lot is generic.

I think the wire must be for heated saddle ... not sure if the setting for that is automatic as well to save fiddly controls.
Probably a light feed, but possibly a rider sensor when weight or capacitance of a rider present. Infrared could be fooled by heat of sun? Doesn't look like a dropper post. Or a secret kill switch on a prototype! Shrug :cool:
 
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vfr400

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Probably a light feed, but possibly a rider sensor when weight or capacitance of a rider present. Infrared could be fooled by heat of sun? Doesn't look like a dropper post. Or a secret kill switch on a prototype! Shrug :cool:
It looks like a toggle switch to me - maybe to switch in and out some feature, like speed limit override or throttle operation on the prototype for testing. The motor on the other bike didn't have that wire.