Another little gem on ES Forum.

anotherkiwi

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Jan 26, 2015
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I have posted pics on ES Boss thread showing what I think is a fried component possibly a nano solid state looking resistor. Hoping Aulakiria the designer will see it to confirm.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&start=375
The component is on D1 line on the rear of the lcd display, as the display no longer switches on my thinking is D1 = display line.
I'm not binning it as I think it is repairable but at what cost ? That is the problem with small techy units.
The Malectric is likely better like the Kweld separate component parts are available and in Germany so easier then Korea.
The price isn't the same. I will be welding at most 5 batteries together so $95/5 = $19 per battery. The kweld is 167€ plus shipping... and malectric is 130€
 
D

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I have posted pics on ES Boss thread showing what I think is a fried component possibly a nano solid state looking resistor. Hoping Aulakiria the designer will see it to confirm.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&start=375
The component is on D1 line on the rear of the lcd display, as the display no longer switches on my thinking is D1 = display line.
I'm not binning it as I think it is repairable but at what cost ? That is the problem with small techy units.
The Malectric is likely better like the Kweld separate component parts are available and in Germany so easier then Korea.
I think you'll find that D1 is a diode, where "D1" is sometimes known as the "reference designator" or "component identifier". You should be able to test this if your DVM has a mode for testing semiconductor junctions.
R10 is a 4K7 resistor (472 is the code for 47 x 10^2 = 4700 ohms).
 

awol

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Sep 4, 2013
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Have bit the bullet and ordered an Arduino model from Malectric in Germany.
It's a quality bit of kit and I think you will be pleased with it. Mine came in only about 4 days over christmas. I got it thinking it would be the cheaper option for me since I already had lipo's to power it, but then realised I had no 3S's and also non were at least the recommended 60C+ So ended up buying a 3S Graphene Panther 75C+ on sale the other week. Got some nice test welds on 0.15 nickel set at 7ms
IMAG0052.jpg
 

Nealh

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Aug 7, 2014
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Thanks Awol looking forward to it arriving, I use a 3S HK graphene.
With the Boss 3.5 & 4ms gave good welds with 0.15mm nickel so will need to do some test welds to find my new settings. The Malectric looks a slightly better finished welder with all contained in a nice casing, the Boss is a little fragile so needs more care.
 

Nealh

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Conversing to Lee in Korea it appears that I need to replace the 5v Arduino then upload the firmware from him or order an upper pcb with Arduino all configured and to solder the 6 pins in.
Need to have a look at the Boss to see how easy any of this will be.
 
D

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Conversing to Lee in Korea it appears that I need to replace the 5v Arduino then upload the firmware from him or order an upper pcb with Arduino all configured and to solder the 6 pins in.
Need to have a look at the Boss to see how easy any of this will be.
Cheap and easy to obtain the microcontroller device once you've identified the correct IC, fitting it could be a challenge if its SMD unless you've got the rework equipment. Downloading the Arduino software to your PC is easy enough, the challenge will be to obtain the correct proprietary firmware.
 
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Nealh

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Cheap and easy to obtain the microcontroller device once you've identified the correct IC, fitting it could be a challenge if its SMD unless you've got the rework equipment. Downloading the Arduino software to your PC is easy enough, the challenge will be to obtain the correct proprietary firmware.
Having looked up the meaning for your acronyms IC &SMD, I can now make sense of what you say.
The software/ firmware is easy bit as Lee who makes/develops them will send me the necessary file/files to upload to the Arduino.
 
D

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Having looked up the meaning for your acronyms IC &SMD, I can now make sense of what you say.
The software/ firmware is easy bit as Lee who makes/develops them will send me the necessary file/files to upload to the Arduino.
IC = Integrated Circuit. There are various versions of Arduino using different ICs
SMD = Surface Mounted Device. The legs of these devices are soldered onto pads on the pcb (Printed Circuit Board). Older technology devices were "Through Hole" where the legs of the device go through holes in the pcb and are soldered on the other side. Through hole devices are easy to remove and re-insert whereas SMD devices require rework equipment such as a temperature controlled hot air gun to remove the old device, a very finely tipped temperature controlled soldering iron, very fine solder, a flux dispenser with a fine nozzle, a powerful magnifying glass or better still a USB microscope, a steady hand and lots of patience!!
You will need to connect a USB port on your PC to programming pins on the USB board, hopefully this will also be a USB port.
 

Nealh

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My Arduino is through hole not SMD so replacement is easier.
Need to dig it out of the garage again to see if I will have a play with it, most likely will as the Arduino isn't very expensive and seen one that matches the criteria for < £10.
Then just a case of contacting Lee again for the firmware file and finding a suitable usb lead for connection.
 
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Nealh

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Having sent a pic to Aulakiria of two blown solid state components on the Arduino he has confirmed that they are for the LED and why I have a blank screen when turned on. For $30 I have a new programmed upper pcb with Arduino coming from Aulakiria in Korea, all I need to do is prepare the Boss welder by de-soldering the six thru pins connections.
 

Nealh

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My replacement upper pcb board with Arduino was delivered today so another job that needs yo be done. I didn't get collared for duty but VAT as item was marked as $25 so over £15, the VAT was £3.82 + RM £8 handling fee.
 

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