Always a good idea to inspect cables...

[PC2017]

Just a quick post, I am getting new steel(chromoly) rigid forks fitted, [oxford cheap(ish) make £40 but look really nice in person] to save the LBS some hassle I removed my motor and brakes etc. Upon inspection of my long motor cable I came across two areas of wear one inside the axle near to the outer part of which I could not get a good picture, then further up this... Any suggestion on splicing if any one needs it (maybe me in the near future) I hear Chinese ports are backed up, I do not know if this would effect Shenzhen as I believe this is the main ebike manufacturing district and if any of this would have a knock on effect to UK/EU ebike motor warehousing but it's food for thought as I intended, if the need arose to order direct from China if I could not source from a local warehouse. A motor is not something I could have as spare, just in case. It appears this is wear from the frame caused by steering, this motor is 5 -6 years old.

 

[guerney]

That's tricky! Perhaps you could carefully remove the black cable outer using a very sharp scalpel-type knife, then cut those cables one at a time (with battery removed and any residual current depleted), but at different points, so that when you solder them together again, the resulting overall cable thickness doesn't increase beyond what it is presently. Before soldering the coloured cables together again, I slip over (maybe two layers of) 4:1 self adhesive marine heatshrink over all of those coloured cables together - the glue within the heatshrink hardens as it cools, so that cable can be shaped a bit while it's hot. 4:1 because it's easier to slip over things, and it's a pretty tough material. The resulting thinner, possibly tougher cable might prevent that happening.

You're right about the importance of regularly inspecting cables - I recently covered the end of one of the bigger cable connectors on my bbs01b kit with 4:1 marine heatshrink, because upon inspection coloured wires were showing where it was coming apart. It's now much more secure than it was originally. Saved buying a whole cable set from China.

 

[georgehenry]

I cannot see any bare wires in your picture. If everything is working as it should wrapping the effected area in good quality electrical tape and trying to re house the wire where it will not rub might be enough at this point.

I did the same when I found a similar thing on my old Oxygen a couple of years ago with no ill effects since.

Perhaps a bit lazy for some.

 

[PC2017]

then cut those cables one at a time (with battery removed and any residual current depleted)

It is the 9 pin motor cable coming out of the motor. Yes definitely tricky, at the moment it's only slightly exposed with no visible copper showing so I covered with e-tape and applied a covering of heat shrink. I think I caught it in time. I have the task of reassembling the bike today so hopefully it should work. If it doesn't work I take heed and follow your suggestion, luckily it is about 1.5 meters in length I feel YOSE intended this to go on a tandem, so I have a good length to work with, this time I will purchase some helping hands.

 

[Nealh]

Amalgam tape for that one in the pic, as it is hard wearing and w/p also sticks like you know what. Motor axels are hard and really need a tricky re wire.

 

[guerney]

I cannot see any bare wires in your picture. If everything is working as it should wrapping the effected area in good quality electrical tape and trying to re house the wire where it will not rub might be enough at this point.

I did the same when I found a similar thing on my old Oxygen a couple of years ago with no ill effects since.

Perhaps a bit lazy for some.

I prefer lazy, but ever since I've learned to solder, it's become a compulsion to solder everything whether it's approriate to solder or not.

 

[PC2017]

Motor axels are hard and really need a tricky re wire.

managed to gopro the axle fix, lucky spot really, it is only 2mm slight exposing, I will have to check the vid in post to see how well it came out, I did as the other fix, etape and heat shrink.

With the new forks came a momentous occasion, some may cast their minds back many a moons ago, to the conversation on torque arms on a font hub, in front of the fork or behind the forks was the question of the day & Cycleeze was going out of business.
I managed to twist the rep on here to post me out one of the last "star mount multi angled fully solid" t-arms for the price of a stamp or two - today I finally got to install it, pics to follow - Looks much better behind the forks so be dammed with the naysayers, Grin Tech approved mounting technique.

 

[PC2017]

I often wonder how many of these there are in the wild. It's a tad overkill I know and most likely intended for rear however I could not get it to either angle or level on the rear frame from what I can remember. Anyway 2 year or more itch scratched.

 

[guerney]

I often wonder how many of these there are in the wild. It's a tad overkill I know and most likely intended for rear however I come not get it to either angle or level on the rear frame from what I can remember. Anyway 2 year or more itch scratched.
View attachment 46794View attachment 46795

Those look sturdy, linked your post for @Abzy on another thread, in the conversion section.