Help! Advice Please - Need a new/replacement LCD Controller with push buttons?

[bilabonic]

Hi All

It seems as if my LCD controller as mine has water ingress, it has ALWAYS had water ingress from the very first time it was rode in the wet (4 years ago)!!

48v/1000w Brushless.

It has always managed to turn ON/OFF, allow 'some' control with always with condensation/water inside it plus some LCD 'bleed'.

Anyway it has finally packed up, can not get bike to work of Thumb Control (i never used pedal assist).

It is a Cycloctricity branded LCD - https://www.cyclotricity.com/uk/parts-and-offers/lcd-computer.html

But there is NO WAY i am paying £80 for one from them if possible!! Basically paying for the plug/socket to others i have viewed like below -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-60V-1500W-Electric-Bike-E-bike-Scooter-Brushed-Brushless-Motor-Controller-ST/253823287117?hash=item3b190bff4d:m:mww9KOJZR8P_2I02FqFI3wA

It has a 5 pin plug/wires as in pics below.

What pins do i need to short just to turn controller on for temp fix to get me going?

RED-YELLOW or RED-BLUE??

Anyone advise???

Thanks in advance guys, no doubt the WEALTH of knowledge on here will get me going.

 

[vfr400]

Join the red to blue and the yellow to green. Be very careful not to let the red or blue touch anything else even with the battery disconnected.
You can buy a replacement LCD from Ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-36-48V-ELECTRIC-BICYCLE-EBIKE-LCD-DISPLAY-METER-PANEL-REMOTE-CONTROL-ODOMETER/401646934789?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=1&asc=56492&meid=d7c6bf0f9ecc4d4ca477fc2590225850&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=152932252198&itm=401646934789&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

[wheeliepete]

A problem a few have had here with the Cyclotricity kits is that fitting a replacement LCD3 to the old controller is that they have been unable to access the 1000w mode due to the custom software on the Cyclotricity LCD1 display, there's no P6 function on the new LCD, so you are stuck in 250w mode. You will need to replace the controller as well. One of these will do the job, depending which type of connectors you have. Just check your motor has 8/9 pin plug, not 3.
http://www.topbikekit.com/t12s-36v48v500w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-for-ebike-p-724.html
http://www.topbikekit.com/t12s-36v48v500w-torque-simulation-sine-wave-controller-with-julei-waterproof-connector-p-733.html
They also sell the LCD3 display.
http://www.topbikekit.com/tlcd3-24v36v48v-lcd-meter-display-with-waterproof-connector-p-468.html
http://www.topbikekit.com/tlcd3-lcd-meter-display-for-electric-bike-p-232.html

 

[bilabonic]

Wow, i never thought of that, it has to be in 1000w mode.....So is my current controller still in 1000w mode? If so all i need is to turn it ON/OFF and i will be happy for now.

I have not got the user manual so no idea how it is switched from 250/1000w?

I do like their controllers/leads/plugs/sockets though. I wish these were standardised or more readily available.

So looking at above how the heck would i make the controller connections waterproof in the case it sits under the bottom bar?

 

[bilabonic]

I had the bike off my brother, just spoke to him, no manual etc.

He stated he had a code of the cyclocity boy's to use it off road permanently as it has been.................................

 

[wheeliepete]

Connect the wires up as vfr suggests and try it out. You may find without the lcd that it stays in 1000w mode, you will soon notice if not! Use your battery switch/lock to turn on/off. Post some photos of your controller connectors.

 

[bilabonic]

Yep, i'll have a PROPER look tom if i get chance, i presume the FW is stored in the controller and not the LCD hopefully.
From memory my old Bafang 36v controller was switched via 2 wires.
I'll have a play.....

Anyone agree that the plug in harnesses are great?

Surely the plug/sockets are available online for 'peanuts' somewhere??

I have used waterproof ones several years ago and used to silicone the controller inputs etc....

Thanks once again

 

[vfr400]

You only get level one on the pedal assist, which is less than 250W, but I'm not sure what you'll get on the throttle. Normally, you'd get full power, but the Cyclotricity one might default to 250W mode on the throttle

 

[bilabonic]

You only get level one on the pedal assist, which is less than 250W, but I'm not sure what you'll get on the throttle. Normally, you'd get full power, but the Cyclotricity one might default to 250W mode on the throttle

Yea, i think the PAS was 1 at all times, i only used throttle.

Is there a diagram for the controller/LCD. Strange how the LCD's listed here are 6 inputs and mine is 5 to the PCB, is the extra for a hard wired signal to derestrict?

How is it measuring the two inputs on the Blue/Yellow by slapping a constant voltage on it??

Prob need a CRO or something...

Cheers

 

[vfr400]

Most LCDs have 5 wires. Red is from the battery and it powers the LCD. Blue is joined to the red when you switch on the LCD. It becomes the battery supply voltage back to the controller to power it. It's the LCD that powers the controller, not the controller that powers the LCD. Black is ground. Yellow and green are data wires to transmit and receive data between the LCD and the controller. The LCD transmit is connected to the controller receive and vice versa.

If you connect the red to the blue, the battery is connected to the controller to power it without the switch on the LCD. By connecting the green to the yellow, the data transmit from the controller is connected to its receive, so the data goes round in a circle. Maybe it needs to receive something to work, but doesn't care what it receives.

If an LCD has 6 wires, the 6th is often for the lights, though you can still work lights on many 5 wire controllers by data. The LCD sends a signal down it's data transmit wire to the controller to tell it to switch on the lights. The CPU then switches a transistor to give power to the lights. On the LCDs that have the separate wire for the lights, the transistor is in the LCD and switched by the LCD's CPU.

 

[danielrlee]

Most LCDs have 5 wires. Red is from the battery and it powers the LCD. Blue is joined to the red when you switch on the LCD. It becomes the battery supply voltage back to the controller to power it. It's the LCD that powers the controller, not the controller that powers the LCD. Black is ground. Yellow and green are data wires to transmit and receive data between the LCD and the controller. The LCD transmit is connected to the controller receive and vice versa.

If you connect the red to the blue, the battery is connected to the controller to power it without the switch on the LCD. By connecting the green to the yellow, the data transmit from the controller is connected to its receive, so the data goes round in a circle. Maybe it needs to receive something to work, but doesn't care what it receives.

If an LCD has 6 wires, the 6th is often for the lights, though you can still work lights on many 5 wire controllers by data. The LCD sends a signal down it's data transmit wire to the controller to tell it to switch on the lights. The CPU then switches a transistor to give power to the lights. On the LCDs that have the separate wire for the lights, the transistor is in the LCD and switched by the LCD's CPU.

TUFKAD (The User Formally Known As D8veh), it's good to have you back.

 

[wheeliepete]

Strange how the LCD's listed here are 6 inputs

No, they are 5 wire, same green 5 pin julet connector.

I wish these were standardised or more readily available.

The second controller in post #3 has the same waterproof connectors as you have.

 

[Woosh]

TUFKAD (The User Formally Known As D8veh), it's good to have you back.

how do you know vrf400 is TUFKAD?

 

[wheeliepete]

how do you know vrf400 is TUFKAD?

We don't, it's just a feeling a few of us have had, a bit of forum gossip, maybe he's been cloned.

 

[Woosh]

We don't, it's just a feeling a few of us have had, a bit of forum gossip, maybe he's been cloned.

TUFKAD popped in our shop in Southend to say hello last Monday. He still reads but didn't say anything about coming back to post here.

 

[Nealh]

how do you know vrf400 is TUFKAD?

I have noticed the similarity in Vfr's posting's and technical knowledge for about 3 - 4 weeks now. I have mentioned it a couple of times in posts but do not play on it as generally the forum is a lesser place without his input.
Using the old adage that 2+2 =4 and not 5.

 

[Nealh]

TUFKAD (The User Formally Known As D8veh), it's good to have you back.

Maybe Mr H will change his alias again to TUFKAD, excellent Daniel.
I suppose a bit obvious when being a bit inconspicuous but the cat has been let out of the bag for a few weeks now and a few of us have had noticed the similarities.

 

[bilabonic]

Most LCDs have 5 wires. Red is from the battery and it powers the LCD. Blue is joined to the red when you switch on the LCD. It becomes the battery supply voltage back to the controller to power it. It's the LCD that powers the controller, not the controller that powers the LCD. Black is ground. Yellow and green are data wires to transmit and receive data between the LCD and the controller. The LCD transmit is connected to the controller receive and vice versa.

If you connect the red to the blue, the battery is connected to the controller to power it without the switch on the LCD. By connecting the green to the yellow, the data transmit from the controller is connected to its receive, so the data goes round in a circle. Maybe it needs to receive something to work, but doesn't care what it receives.

If an LCD has 6 wires, the 6th is often for the lights, though you can still work lights on many 5 wire controllers by data. The LCD sends a signal down it's data transmit wire to the controller to tell it to switch on the lights. The CPU then switches a transistor to give power to the lights. On the LCDs that have the separate wire for the lights, the transistor is in the LCD and switched by the LCD's CPU.

How do you have so much info on this

 

[bilabonic]

D8veh helped me a LOT with my first bike i made, i still have the Hobbying batteries, balancing charger, harnesses to charge all 6 at once..NEVER been used..Think i need a sort out ans sell some gear tbh..

Going to get bike out now and have a look at controller, short red to blue and the yellow to green..

 

[wheeliepete]

short red to blue and the yellow to green..

Yep, youv'e got it