make it simple. Just tell us which kit you want to buy, then we can tell you how to fit the sensor. There will be absolutely no problem, I promise.
Advice on choosing the right kit, please.
- Thread starter SSThing
- Start date
Looking at your photo vfr400, is there something (spacer?) between the magnet disc and the bearing? I have zoomed in but cannot tell.
I have a scrap pas to experiment with (as per photo).
Would I be right in thinking that I could Dremel out some of the centre so that the disc fits onto the splines, use a spacer to keep the disc away from the bb case and then tighten everything up (meaning that the left pedal is now offset by a few mm)?
I have a scrap pas to experiment with (as per photo).
Would I be right in thinking that I could Dremel out some of the centre so that the disc fits onto the splines, use a spacer to keep the disc away from the bb case and then tighten everything up (meaning that the left pedal is now offset by a few mm)?
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For that type, you do it like this, assumimg that you have a 68mm BB tube. Check it first:
1. Thin down the magnet disc in where that extra thickness until it's flush with the rest of the disc is using a file or a Dremmel
2. Drill or Dremmel out the centre to 25mm so that the crank spindle can pass through it. Slightly chamfer the inner edges to keep them off the edge of the bearing seal.
3. Remove the cranks and both bearing holders and remove any spacers behind them.
4. Remove the sensor from its bracket and refit it the other side.
5. Reassemble the bearing holders with the sensor bracket behind the left side one.
6. Reassemble the crank with the magnet disc between the bearing holder and the pedal arm.
7. Use the plastic threaded cap to pull the left crank on. There should be just enough thread to get it started. you only have to pull it to. Don't worry if the left crank isn't on as far as it was before as long as you can insert and do up the clamp screws. You need that cap to pull it on far enough to get the screws in.
If you removed a spacer from the right side, you'll have to re-adjust your derailleur the equivalent amount.
1. Thin down the magnet disc in where that extra thickness until it's flush with the rest of the disc is using a file or a Dremmel
2. Drill or Dremmel out the centre to 25mm so that the crank spindle can pass through it. Slightly chamfer the inner edges to keep them off the edge of the bearing seal.
3. Remove the cranks and both bearing holders and remove any spacers behind them.
4. Remove the sensor from its bracket and refit it the other side.
5. Reassemble the bearing holders with the sensor bracket behind the left side one.
6. Reassemble the crank with the magnet disc between the bearing holder and the pedal arm.
7. Use the plastic threaded cap to pull the left crank on. There should be just enough thread to get it started. you only have to pull it to. Don't worry if the left crank isn't on as far as it was before as long as you can insert and do up the clamp screws. You need that cap to pull it on far enough to get the screws in.
If you removed a spacer from the right side, you'll have to re-adjust your derailleur the equivalent amount.
Couple of questions.
Is the number of magnets significant?
If four would be enough, is it feasible to attach four neodymium magnets directly (using their own magnetic ability) to the bolts on the smallest chainwheel and then position the sensor accordingly? Or, in order for them to be attracted to the bolts would this mean that they would be incorrectly polarised for the sensor?
Is the number of magnets significant?
If four would be enough, is it feasible to attach four neodymium magnets directly (using their own magnetic ability) to the bolts on the smallest chainwheel and then position the sensor accordingly? Or, in order for them to be attracted to the bolts would this mean that they would be incorrectly polarised for the sensor?
This isn't as easy as I had hoped.
I can't find anyone with UK stock and looking on the likes of AliExpress etc it seems that very few of the stores will ship from EU to the UK (good old Brexit).
But I am just getting more and more confused.
I am settled on a rear hub configuration and the Mxus Xf08c looks like a good contender, using a downtube battery with built in controller. All of the kits are shown as including a separate (silver box) controller but no battery. Are there two types of downtube battery, one with built in controller and one without? Or do I just order a kit and a battery and then not use the separate controller?
I can't find anyone with UK stock and looking on the likes of AliExpress etc it seems that very few of the stores will ship from EU to the UK (good old Brexit).
But I am just getting more and more confused.
I am settled on a rear hub configuration and the Mxus Xf08c looks like a good contender, using a downtube battery with built in controller. All of the kits are shown as including a separate (silver box) controller but no battery. Are there two types of downtube battery, one with built in controller and one without? Or do I just order a kit and a battery and then not use the separate controller?
You can get batteries with the integrated controllers from Topbikekit and BMSBattery. There are advantages to the silver box type controllers with block connectors compared with the integrated controllers with waterproof connectors.
1. It's virtually impossible to test the sealed connectors to see which component is faulty if ever your bike doesn't work. it's dead easy to test every component when you have the block connectors.
2. The wire length is fixed with the sealed connectors, so you always end up with excess wire that you have to try and hide somehow, which can look very intidy, whiles as the aluminium box type controllers would be installed in a box or bag where you can hide lengths of excess wire.
3. there are more options for getting different powers with the aluminium box type, while as the integrated ones often only come in one version.
4. Some of the integrated controllers are quite long, and you really need a fixing that end to hold your battery to the frame. Without the controller there, you can drill a hole where you want. That's not possible with the controller in there.
I would always choose the aluminium box type because it's easier to test and there are more options to get what you want and it leaves the possibility to use whatever battery you want mounted however you want. Even now, the batteries that go with the Mk1 hailong integrated controllers are becoming harder to find, and it's very confusing because there are now several types that all look the same, but are completely un-interchangeable.
Controller in a a bag along with puncture kit, emergency lights and some other stuff:
Also, I think the AKM128C/Q128c/QQ128C is a better motor than the MXUS due to it's ability to handle more power, which it gets from its larger internal reduction ratio.
A lot of what i've said depends on what you want. what's right for someone might not be right for someone else. To get the best stuff sometimes costs a bit more, but I always think that its best to spend a little more money to get something you're happy with if it's something that you're going to use a lot for a long time into the future rather than keep changing for what you want. I spent around £20,000 on different bike kit until I found my E-bike nirvana 6 years ago, and I've been happy ever since.
A lot of what i've said depends on what you want. what's right for someone might not be right for someone else. To get the best stuff sometimes costs a bit more, but I always think that its best to spend a little more money to get something you're happy with if it's something that you're going to use a lot for a long time into the future rather than keep changing for what you want. I spent around £20,000 on different bike kit until I found my E-bike nirvana 6 years ago, and I've been happy ever since.
I have an old injury that gives me a clicky hip, so I just wanted fit a kit with a throttle so I could stop pedalling every now and then and keep going. Obviously with a mid drive the pedals will turn if I used a throttle so I couldn't do what I need. I am only going to be using my bike for roads, towpaths and dirt tracks through woodland, absolutely no proper offroading nowadays.
Are those model numbers all the same hub rebadged or are they each different?
With regards to the cables, I had anticipated (once everything was fitted and working, that I would need to cut and solder/heatshrink everything to the right length, or am I being naive thinking it's that straightforward?
Are those model numbers all the same hub rebadged or are they each different?
With regards to the cables, I had anticipated (once everything was fitted and working, that I would need to cut and solder/heatshrink everything to the right length, or am I being naive thinking it's that straightforward?
That's not true. There's a freewheel between the bedals and the motor, so you can pedal without the motor or motor eithout turning the pedals.
Yes, sorry I didn't explain properly, I understand that I can freewheel but I meant going uphill (which is when my hip invariably plays up). It would be nice to be able to keep riding using the throttle without my legs having to move, instead of getting off to push.
there is a clutch unit inside the crank motor so when you use the throttle to go uphill, you can rest your feet on the pedals which are disengaged from the motor and don't move.
yes. If you pedal, the pedal clutch will engage and you move the ring.
If you stop pedalling, the motor will drive the ring.
Basically, each source (motor and cranks) has one clutch. The ring will be moved by the faster source.
Just get a Bafang BBS01 mid drive kit, has built in cadence sensor, and the kit comes with a throttle, shipped from the UK, £310.66 delivered, with a 500c display and 44t chainwheel and hydraulic brake sensors
yep
Here's it fitted to my Boardman hardtail with Hailong type 1 downtube battery and 500c display/44t chainwheel
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You don't need an additional controller. You can use any battery you want that has the right voltage and can supply the current for the version of the BBS** that you get. The high torque version from Brightonebikes is 25amps, so you need a high discharge rate battery for that one, not the common cheapo ones.
Re Bbs01b tweaking options, I've just tried the new Speeed android app, had to get a better cable, but it works a treat. Various settings can be changed, including the ah setting, so while in the grounds of your mansion you can have a 350w motor by setting it to 17ah. I've now brought it back down to 15ah, better battery range and I have to do a bit more work, no bad thing.
I've just altered the throttle settings to "current control" and maximum power setting, finding it a lot more useful. I've also got a 44t chainring, it came with 46t but not so good on the bridleways round here.
I've just altered the throttle settings to "current control" and maximum power setting, finding it a lot more useful. I've also got a 44t chainring, it came with 46t but not so good on the bridleways round here.
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