Adding tape to help waterproof cable plugs

[Wayners]

Re my light not working I mentioned on another post

Came out of work and bike with not switch on. Screen was dead. Fiddled with plugs for 5 mins and every came alive. That's was lucky. Made it home ok.
Just been tugging and moving cables and found the fault. Just moving a multi pin plug joint near battery ( small pins) and all went dead. It was wrapped in rubber amalgamating tape I applied, so I cut off tape then pulled the plug apart and pushed back together. I'm sure it was not fitting together properly which was the problem.
Powers on as and off fine now and my front headlight is working. Result.

My question
Should I bother to add more amalgamating tape to cable plug to keep water out or not bother?
Thanks

 

[guerney]

I usually use 4:1 self-adhesive marine heat shrink to waterproof, then cover with self amalgamating tape in case the adhesive is broken down over time by movement, chemicals or UV light. If you wrap self-amalgamating tape too tightly, as you've discovered things wrapped can become dislodged. It'll amalgamate to itself if wrapped with less force.

 

[Wayners]

I'll do the same. Off to eBay for marine tape.

I was thinking maybe that rubber tape I used pulled the socket out a bit

 

[saneagle]

I'll do the same. Off to eBay for marine tape.

I was thinking maybe that rubber tape I used pulled the socket out a bit

All you need is a blob of silicone grease in any connector to keep it waterproof and corrosion free.

 

[Wayners]

I'm a big fan of polymer like CT1 although I use loads of stixall. In the clear or black would be fine I guess for plugs but it's not great if you want to remove it.
I'm liking the idea of shrink tube which I have already. Not sure it's marine grade though..
Think I'll put some on now but I'll order some new. I'm running low anyway.

I think I have silicone grease here as well

 

[guerney]

The only way to remove marine self-adhesive heat shrink, is with a heat gun - difficult and messy. I like it though because once it cools, it sets as a hard shape, which can be useful, stops things waggling about. On my bike at least, 4:1 slips over the large connectors and still shrinks enough to grip the cable it's connected to. The combination of self-amalgamating tape and marine heat shrink has worked well, my connectors and connections survived complete submersion for 13 seconds a couple of years ago, with no ill effects. I might stuff in some silicone grease aswell next time...

 

[Cadence]

All you need is a blob of silicone grease in any connector to keep it waterproof and corrosion free.

^^^^^^^^
Agreed. I bought a tin of this:-
Silicone Grease No2 50g Water resistant Multi Purpose Lubricant for rubber Etc 5081941866974 | eBay
Just a thin smear around the mating surfaces is sufficient and it also makes pulling the connectors apart again much easier. I've used it to lubricate brake and gear cables to good effect.

 

[Cisco-man]

All you need is a blob of silicone grease in any connector to keep it waterproof and corrosion free.

Agreed. I’ve got experience over the years of this when I’ve been called to fix something, and it turns out to be a taped up connector and it has corroded up inside. Water can get into places you’d not believe, and if it can’t get out then it all gets corroded in there - even quality connectors. Silicone grease is a winner!

 

[saneagle]

Agreed. I’ve got experience over the years of this when I’ve been called to fix something, and it turns out to be a taped up connector and it has corroded up inside. Water can get into places you’d not believe, and if it can’t get out then it all gets corroded in there - even quality connectors. Silicone grease is a winner!

That's right. More controllers got drowned by people that tried to seal them than those left alone. The point you make about corrosion is important. when you try to seal something and moisture gets in, you can get crevice corrosion, which is accelerated corrosion that happens when there's not enough oxygen. Metals that would normally be corrosion free, like aluminium, stainless steel, brass, etc need the oxygen to stay corrosion resistant. Without it, the protective oxide layer breaks down and you get a corroded mess.