Adding lights and mudguards

[bigclick]

Hello to all, I am new to pedelecs other than a quick five minute go on one the other day.

My knees are getting old (along with the rest of me) and I am looking to get a pedelec.

I use my current ancient bike (Diamond Back Topanga) for canal tow paths and heritage tracks mainly. However I would like to do some MTB routes like the ones at Cannock Chase.

I like the look and specification of the MACINA LYCAN 27 and its just about in my price range.


I have two questions that will help me towards a decision on this...

1. Can I easily add lights and mudguards to the Macina Lycan, so as well as MTB stuff I can still run around town doing errands and stuff?

2. Are there alternative bikes that come with lights and mudguards built in that can also do the MTB routes too?


Any help and advise much appreciated,

Thanks

 

[RobF]

The rechargeable LED lights are very good these days, so you could get a rear to clip on to the seatpost and a front to clip on the handlebars.

That should be sufficient, unless you are into year round hardcore commuting.

Mudguards will, again, be the same as any mountain bike.

Seatpost clip on for the rear and either down tube or fork mounted for the front.

They are not close fitting semi-circular mudguards in the traditional sense, but are much better for mountain biking because they have plenty of clearance.

Traditional mudguards clog easily on trails in the winter.

If you want better protection from the rain on the road, there are plenty of decent bikes with traditional mudguards, but most don't have full suspension.

Riese and Muller is one make to consider, but their full sus mudguard bikes are aimed at road/cinder track.

You need knobbly tyres for mountain biking, like the ones on the KTM you like.

 

[Wicky]

There's the 2015 KTM E-Street P with mudguards and lights coming out soon

or as I've done on my 2014 E-Race P bunged on aftermarket MTB front & rear mudguards - Junked the stock Racing Ralph lightweight MTB tyres as they would puncture just by pushing the bike on a pavement with more road biased puncture resistent Big Apples which still work well on trails.

 

[jackhandy]

If keeping clean is important to you, I don't think any full-suss bike mudguards will do the job _ It's due to the machanicals of the bike.
A hardtail might suit better & will ride better around town:
However, a bouncer is great fun on the mucky stuff.

Horses for Courses _ Test-ride lots before deciding...
Then start stoking the piggybank _ because you are going to want Two bikes

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If keeping clean is important to you, I don't think any full-suss bike mudguards will do the job _ It's due to the machanicals of the bike.

SKS Beavertail XLs will sort out a full suspension bike. They only cost about £14.

 

[bigclick]

Thanks for some very informative and helpful replies.

Keeping clean is desirable but not the biggest priority.

I have done some reading since yesterday and I like the idea of an integrated GPS (does it have off road data?) on the Lycan, but for a first bike might it be more than I need generally?

I like the reviews of the Oxygen MTB but it's got a hub motor and based on my limited research I believe hub motors are inferior to crank motors?

Willing to be informed on hub V crank

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I like the reviews of the Oxygen MTB but it's got a hub motor and based on my limited research I believe hub motors are inferior to crank motors?

Willing to be informed on hub V crank

Nobody can say crank motors are better than hub motors or the other way round. There's many different crank motors and many different hub motors.

Many people that express a view seem to jump to a conclusion by comparing a bad one of one type with a good one of another type.

Also, many people that express a view get mixed up about torque sensor systems and speed control systems, wrongly believing that torque systems are only on crank motors and speed systems on hub motors.

I've never seen any more misinformation written than on this subject. So I'd advise you to think very carefully before making a decision based on what you've read. What you'd prefer would depend on your riding style, which is personal to you.

If you still think that crank drives are better than hub-motors, go and have a go on a KTM type P (Panasonic) or the Oxygen. I'd be very surprised if you don't change your mind. Most people that comment have never ridden either of them.

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

He's a KTM Macina Lycan, that one our dealers built for a customer who I think had similar needs to yours.

with regard to the hub v crank drive. We do both because there isn't a clear cut answer, both have benefits and disadvantages.

 

[bigclick]

He's a KTM Macina Lycan, that one our dealers built for a customer who I think had similar needs to yours.

with regard to the hub v crank drive. We do both because there isn't a clear cut answer, both have benefits and disadvantages.

Hi, can you tell me the dealer who built this one please?

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

Hi, can you tell me the dealer who built this one please?

No worries... I should have said first time. It was Fully Charged in London.

http://www.fullycharged.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=KTM

 

[Wicky]

Here's my KTM beasty with aftermarket mudguards

 

[bigclick]

No worries... I should have said first time. It was Fully Charged in London.

http://www.fullycharged.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=KTM

So Do they do the GPS+ version of the bike?

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

yes, that is the GPS+ Version.

the non GPS version is plain white.

We've got people uploading all the new bikes onto our website at the moment so if you give it a couple of hours all the 2015 bikes will be on our site.

 

[TinKitten]

I recommend taking a test ride before deciding. I had a shortlist of a few bikes when I went to E-Motion in Swindon, but when I tried the Panasonic hub compared to the Bosch crank I was sold. Of course, this does not mean everyone would prefer it but I had ridden a hub bike belonging to my Mum so I was familiar with them and like how they deliver power. I also found the hub motor quieter, even though I have read other members say crank drives are meant to be less noisy.

As for lights and mudguards, I'm like you and would have prefered them built in but then you don't really have any choice what bike you buy as most mountain bikes come as stripped down as possible.

I'm novice at mountain biking but recently tried a couple of purpose built trails. My insight regarding them and your needs about mudguards is as follows.

I have these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sks-dashblade-clip-on-mtb-rear-mudguard/ , http://www.amazon.co.uk/SKS-Dashboard-Front-Mudguard-Black/dp/B004BRZ9FY on my KTM eLycan P. See picture below.

It's great how quick and easy it is to take off the rear muguard. However, when I rode the trails I realised it was best to drop the seat right down which didn't leave me much post to attach the mudguard to, and therefore not much clearance. One that attaches to the rear triangle (no idea if that's the right bicycle terminology) might be best to guarantee that. It also occurs to me as I write this that they would also be easy to steal when I leave the bike on its own.

As for lights I have these http://www.evanscycles.com/products/moon/meteor-210-front-light-ec042054 and http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Moon-Comet-30-Lumen-USB-Rechargeable-Rear-Light_57310.htm . They come with a fitting a bit like a rubbery watch strap. It takes less than a second to place them on and off. I keep them in my cycling rucksack until I need them at which point I can whip them on in no time.

Also consider if you want to change the seat for a comfier one. I'm not sure who actually manages to stick with the standard mtb ones. I'm going to be getting a kick stand too as it's a pain to find safe things to lean the bike against and it has fallen over scratching the frame once already. And finally, I also changed my pedals for nice wide ones which are great since I don't use clip in shoes (which my model came with skinny pedals for those).

I love my KTM and although I've done less than 250 miles on it so far, so I can't comment on it's long term reliability, I've given it a good pounding and it's still performing perfectly. And it's so much fun to ride!

 

[jackhandy]

Lovely bike _ But that back mudguard is going to be worse than useless in claggy conditions _ Way too close to the wheel; or does the whole shebang quick-release for offroad?
Pound to a pinch of sh.., the topbox will thump the saddle on the first big bump

This is responding to Ktm's picture of the Lycan.

 

[TinKitten]

Lovely bike _ But that back mudguard is going to be worse than useless in claggy conditions _ Way too close to the wheel; or does the whole shebang quick-release for offroad?
Pound to a pinch of sh.., the topbox will thump the saddle on the first big bump

It does quick release but I guess I want the protection from mud in those conditions. You can also set the angle much higher, I just set it that low so I could place my light on the seat post above it and it will still be visible.

 

[berkobennie]

On the subject of lights, some KTMs come with wired in lights, I am presuming working off the light switch on the control panel. Is it possible to retrofit to the eRaceP, an led light operating off the console/battery, like the ones d8veh has used?
I guess the word, 'warranty' is going to pop its little head up soon!

 

[KTM Bike Industries UK]

Lovely bike _ But that back mudguard is going to be worse than useless in claggy conditions _ Way too close to the wheel; or does the whole shebang quick-release for offroad?
Pound to a pinch of sh.., the topbox will thump the saddle on the first big bump

This is responding to Ktm's picture of the Lycan.

We didn't build it... but your thoughts were exactly the same as what I thought.

Having spoken to the shop, I think this bike will never see offroad, and the shock is set to only move a small amount. Customer wanted this set up, so its what they built.

 

[EddiePJ]

When it comes to mudguards, I have gone through countless variations of front mudguards before finding something that doesn't break with the first off.
I'm not concerned about mud etc flinging up from behind the front wheel, but I'm not keen on having flung up into my face, and the Mucky Nutz makes for the perfect off road guard. It is small, light and completely indestructible. It also fast become the choice for some of the top riders now.
The one thing that I did do, was to bin the velcro in favour of cable ties.

They also now make a rear guard, but I haven't see that one yet. Pretty much all seat post mounted rear guards do the same job and there isn't really anything between them, and mud clearance aside, the closer to the tyre that you can mount it without interference the more effective that it will be.

As for which motor is better, there is never going to be a definitive answer, as both do the job very well, and it pretty much comes down to rider preference. Sometimes I prefer my hub drive, and sometimes the crank drive. I'd suggest trying both.

 

[bigclick]

I recommend taking a test ride before deciding. I had a shortlist of a few bikes when I went to E-Motion in Swindon, but when I tried the Panasonic hub compared to the Bosch crank I was sold. Of course, this does not mean everyone would prefer it but I had ridden a hub bike belonging to my Mum so I was familiar with them and like how they deliver power. I also found the hub motor quieter, even though I have read other members say crank drives are meant to be less noisy.

As for lights and mudguards, I'm like you and would have prefered them built in but then you don't really have any choice what bike you buy as most mountain bikes come as stripped down as possible.

I'm novice at mountain biking but recently tried a couple of purpose built trails. My insight regarding them and your needs about mudguards is as follows.

I have these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sks-dashblade-clip-on-mtb-rear-mudguard/ , http://www.amazon.co.uk/SKS-Dashboard-Front-Mudguard-Black/dp/B004BRZ9FY on my KTM eLycan P. See picture below.

It's great how quick and easy it is to take off the rear muguard. However, when I rode the trails I realised it was best to drop the seat right down which didn't leave me much post to attach the mudguard to, and therefore not much clearance. One that attaches to the rear triangle (no idea if that's the right bicycle terminology) might be best to guarantee that. It also occurs to me as I write this that they would also be easy to steal when I leave the bike on its own.

As for lights I have these http://www.evanscycles.com/products/moon/meteor-210-front-light-ec042054 and http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Moon-Comet-30-Lumen-USB-Rechargeable-Rear-Light_57310.htm . They come with a fitting a bit like a rubbery watch strap. It takes less than a second to place them on and off. I keep them in my cycling rucksack until I need them at which point I can whip them on in no time.

Also consider if you want to change the seat for a comfier one. I'm not sure who actually manages to stick with the standard mtb ones. I'm going to be getting a kick stand too as it's a pain to find safe things to lean the bike against and it has fallen over scratching the frame once already. And finally, I also changed my pedals for nice wide ones which are great since I don't use clip in shoes (which my model came with skinny pedals for those).

I love my KTM and although I've done less than 250 miles on it so far, so I can't comment on it's long term reliability, I've given it a good pounding and it's still performing perfectly. And it's so much fun to ride!

This is all quality information, thanks to all again.

Any idea of what sort of default topology / maps are in the Lycan GPS?