About to purchase......

[Kwozzymodo]

Hello,

Ready to buy my first kit.....

I will source all bar the battery from BMS:

Q100C cst rear motor (I am happy to make up my own wheel)
Dual hall 12 pole pas
S-KU93 controller
S-LCD3 screen
Thumb throttle

The battery, I think I will get from a UK supplier - 36v 11.8a or perhaps a 48v 11.6a to mount on the downtube.

Am I missing anything?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Wrong controller. the KU93 doesn't work with an LCD and it has a very bad PAS function. Also, it's square wave so will make the motor coarse and noisy. Finally, at 22A, it's too high for a Q100C.

Get the S06S. If you need more power, get the 17A one from PSWPower or you could solder the shunt in the S06S. I wouldn't go any more than 17A.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

Thanks. All sorted now. Just waiting for the post......

 

[awol]

Regarding a battery, this company is a UK company and gets good reviews on this forum.
http://eclipsebikes.com/index.php?cPath=30_31&osCsid=4e0be8e65cd64c985f3d6cfe622cf503

 

[Nealh]

Other UK battery sellers are Woosh and Insat international.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

Thanks for the feedback. I thought I would provide an update of how things are going with my first installation.

I bought a 36v 10.4a bottle battery to complete the kit referenced above. Installation was fairly painless - using disc brakes meant that I needed a selection of axle shims to get the disc/pad placement correct. Also, if your bottom bracket collar doesn’t have a lip, adding a PAS can be a challenge, as can the positioning of a thumb throttle on the handlebars with trigger shifters and hydraulic brakes (the fluid reservoir gets in the way!). Anyway, all connected and all working first time.

One question - where can I get a longer cable to run from my battery, which is on the downtube), to my controller, which is sitting in a saddlebag at the rear of the saddle. It’s a four-pin xlr (female) to bullet, red and black wires. Can I buy an ‘off-the-shelf’ cable, or do I need to pop to Maplins and make up my own?

Once I have got the battery cable sorted, I can take my first trip and will report back on my experience.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You just get some 14g silicone wire from Ebay and solder it to the battery wires you already have to extend it.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

So, after all the great advice given on this website, I have finally managed to put my bike together and take it for a ride. All is great and working well.

One question I have concerns the PAS option. I have the integrated unit, KT-V12L which I have installed on the left crank (I also have the thumb throttle installed). However, it doesn't seem to be working. Am I missing something - do I need to tweak the LCD3 parameters?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I keep telling everyone that you have to test which way the PAS works before you install it to save having to dismantle and reinstall. There's two directions you can rotate the magnet disc and 2 ways you can orientate the magnet disc, so four possible combinations. With some sensors only one way works so you can only fit them on one side of the bike, but most have two combinations that work, so you can fit them on either side, but if you have the magnet disc the wrong way up, it'll work when you pedal backwards.

First, see if it works backwards. If so, flip the magnet disc. If not, you can test the other two combinations. If the only way it works is backwards, then you have to mount it on the other side and flip the magnet disc.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

Thanks for the response. I think your suggestion is spot on, for the 2-piece PAS, i.e. the separate cable with fitting ring and magnet, coupled with the disc, that can be oriented in the various positions you suggest.

My PAS is the ‘one-piece’ unit, with the ‘disc’ revolving within a housing containing the magnet, so will only orient one way on either side of the crankset. According to the supplier, this is a ‘handed’ unit, and fits on the left-hand-side crank.

I will have a fiddle in the shed this morning and report back. The solution may be moot anyway, the PAS casing is too wide for my crank set up and therefore I can’t fully tighten the crank on the bottom bracket without the whole thing binding up! Still, it’s nice to know how it would work......

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If it's a square taper BB, you can get a replacement longer one in Halfords for about £10. You need a crank puller and BB tool to fit it. The tools can be got for £5 the pair from Ebay.

 

[jhruk]

One question I have concerns the PAS option. I have the integrated unit, KT-V12L which I have installed on the left crank (I also have the thumb throttle installed). However, it doesn't seem to be working. Am I missing something - do I need to tweak the LCD3 parameters?

Have you set C1 correctly? C1=6 works for me but 5 or 7 should also work according to the manual.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

I did change the Throttle Start-up setting to 7 (standard) and all is fine now. I will have a play around with some of the other settings later this week to see what happens.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

Out of interest, what is the appropriate C2 setting for the q100 and S06?

 

[Nealh]

Out of interest, what is the appropriate C2 setting for the q100 and S06?

If the motor runs quiet and smooth on setting 0 then leave it at that, you can test on settings 1 -7 but will find the motor becomes rougher in sound as the phase timing changes.
If not try other settings for a less noisy motor, in general 0 should be the default setting and is best for my Q128C and 8FUN cst.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

If the motor runs quiet and smooth on setting 0 then leave it at that, you can test on settings 1 -7 but will find the motor becomes rougher in sound as the phase timing changes.
If not try other settings for a less noisy motor, in general 0 should be the default setting and is bes for my Q128C and 8FUN cst.

Likewise for my Q128C. What P1 did you end up sticking on for yours Nealh?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

P1 definately has an affect on the sensorless controllers, but I never notice any difference with the sensor ones. I regularly change motors and controllers, and I never adjusted P1. They always work perfectly, except an Ezee motor that wouldn't work with any setting.

 

[Nealh]

Likewise for my Q128C. What P1 did you end up sticking on for yours Nealh?

202.
Though 212 & 224 both work, default was 87 and there was a timing pickup lag.

 

[BornAgainCyclist]

Thanks both, I'm on 202 as well and it seems smooth. Interesting what you say Dave in both the Nealh trying three different and not seeing a difference until going very left field with the default and why BMS doesn't provide settings for that within the motor notes senses.

 

[Kwozzymodo]

So, I finally got my integrated PAS to fit - slightly wider bottom bracket required and, because tightening the crank arm onto the original bb had squashed the innards out of round, the PAS required a bit of dissection and fettling. It,s all back together and everything works.

I think I prefer the PAS to a throttle, so I have removed the latter. I am also wanting to change to a single chainring on the front, which will enable me to shed the front derailleur, shifter and cable. I’ll need some new chainring bolts and probably a selection of spacers to get a suitable chainline with a 9-speed cassette.

Regarding the size of front chainring - sticking with the 50-tooth ring, I can still manage an 8-10% hill at around 10mph with the Q100c 201rpm motor. Peak watts on this particular hill are around 450 with the 50/26 combo.

Overall performance, with a 36v/10.4a battery and S06 controller, coupled with the LCD3 - just over 18.5mph on level ground at circa 100 watts. So far, I have covered around 25 miles and have around 40% of battery power left. I will do a continuous test at some point, to see what range is in one sitting.

Getting into this ebike thing now - taking collction of another bike for conversion tomorrow, so it should keep me busy.......