A working dongle - at last

[soundwave]

 

[RobF]

I didn't realise the bike had a NuVinci hub gear.

That may open more options because different sprocket sizes are available.

This time, of course, smaller will be required.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/nuvinci-n360-sprocket-prod30977/

 

[EddiePJ]

That's really interesting Rob. I was 'wrongly' lead to believe that it cost a fortune to change the gearing on the rear hub. That would be the way to go then.

 

[Sherman]

Sheldon Brown's Gear Calculator is an excellent tool for figuring out gearing.

 

[RobF]

That's really interesting Rob. I was 'wrongly' lead to believe that it cost a fortune to change the gearing on the rear hub. That would be the way to go then.

Shimano publish max/min recommended rear/front teeth numbers for their Alfine gear hubs so as not to over torque them.

Same might be true for the NuVnci, although it is famously strong.

 

[Lumos]

I have a 750W Bafang driving the NuVinci and not had a problem with it. I find the range too high at the bottom and too low at the top and I actually prefer the feel of my SRAM flitting up and down the 10-42 cassette. Right up to the point of course where the derailleur ends up in the spokes.

 

[Paws]

Thank you all, but @ EddiePJ, the SUV is an oldie one (mk 2014) with 10 speed cassette (http://www.tweekscycles.com/bikes/electric-e-bikes/cube-suv-hybrid-29-e-bike-2014). I love (her) so much, nevertheless

I surely don't want to completely mess my current shifting experience, but as RobF said - need my fastest speed to be a little more fast

I had a real tough time counting the existing teeth, and am quite convinced that there are 16 of those buggers (could be 15 though), so, as I am waiting for your kind further answer/enlightment, 18 seems like maybe okay-ish. I found even 17 and 19 ones @ ebay, so even one tooth seems to really make a difference.

I wonder if a bike service guy could change it without that quite expensive spider tool...there aren't many pedelecs (nor hub motor e-bikes) where I come from.

 

[RobF]

Thank you all, but @ EddiePJ, the SUV is an oldie one (mk 2014) with 10 speed cassette (http://www.tweekscycles.com/bikes/electric-e-bikes/cube-suv-hybrid-29-e-bike-2014). I love (her) so much, nevertheless

I surely don't want to completely mess my current shifting experience, but as RobF said - need my fastest speed to be a little more fast

I had a real tough time counting the existing teeth, and am quite convinced that there are 16 of those buggers (could be 15 though), so, as I am waiting for your kind further answer/enlightment, 18 seems like maybe okay-ish. I found even 17 and 19 ones @ ebay, so even one tooth seems to really make a difference.

I wonder if a bike service guy could change it without that quite expensive spider tool...there aren't many pedelecs (nor hub motor e-bikes) where I come from.

No need for a spider tool - tap it around with a blunt chisel or screwdriver, bearing in mind it's a left hand thread.

The crank can be pulled with a standard Shimano crank puller which any competent bike mechanic will already have.

I've not pulled one of the latest motors to bits, but it looks as if the ring is splined onto the drive shaft or crank.

It ought to be apparent how the ring is fixed when you see it, or EddiePJ could tell you as he's changed a few.

Which ring to choose is a harder one.

You could spend a lot of time calculating gear inches, but you won't really know what it's going to be like to ride until you do so.

A couple of extra teeth on an ordinary ring is barely noticeable.

You probably have the equivalent of 37 teeth at the moment, an 18 or 19 would push this to the mid to high 40s - somewhere between the middle and big ring on a typical mountain bike.

 

[EddiePJ]

Once you have removed the pedals, being careful not to strip the thread if you have never removed them before, it only takes a minute or so to change the sprocket.
I made my own spider tool using a car sump plug removing tool, and a flat piece of metal notched out. A socket could be just as easily notched out and fitted to a shaped piece of metal. I'll take a photo tomorrow to show you. Alternativley just use Robs method.

An all too often sight! The inner profile is rounded on this OE sprocket, whereas Martin's sprockets are more pronounced on the inner edge, and seem to wear better. The Connex sprockets also look good quality, but I've yet to try one of those.

And this photo taken after dropping the motor out yesterday, shows things a bit clearer for you. I reckon that I could probably get the motor out and back in again, in less than ten minutes. Not sure if that gives credit to Bosch for making things simple, or just me getting used to it.

Paws, the sprocket just slides over the larger toothed gear. It couldn't be easier.

 

[soundwave]

i bet if you had the parts you could just fix it ur self in another 10 mins

dunno why bosch dont just ship parts to the dealers to fit makes no sense what so ever??

 

[EddiePJ]

From memory, it didn't really take much longer than that to fix the popping sound from the Classic motor.

I'm not going to investigate and loose the warranty, but they look pretty interesting inside.

 

[soundwave]

yeah seen the u tube vid on that lol more lube

 

[soundwave]

 

[EddiePJ]

I remember seeing that before.

I actually felt that his ability was pretty poor, the workshop practice wasn't great either. Why you put tools and parts on the floor, when you have bench beside! Also just listen to the crap quality of his ratchet.

I can't bear to watch it again, and now prefer to blank it from my memory (again).

edit.. I wonder what else is actually inside the CX motor that he has mentioned, but isn't actually telling us. Modded bearings perhaps?

 

[soundwave]

sure you can do a better 1 when it comes back re install anyway.

 

[Paws]

I ordered a Connex 17 and 19 teeth sprockets and decided to start with the 17 one. My stock was actually 15 teeth. From my POV the +2 teeth translate to 3-5 kph greater speed on the smallest rear sprocket with same-ish effort (measured with HRM). I'm still not in the 50s speed but so far I am pleased.
Thanks for your help

 

[soundwave]

if you want the BAEB dongle 3.3 but the x3 setting they will do this just email them that you want the x3/75kph firmware installed when you buy one

 

[PatMcrotch]

if you want the BAEB dongle 3.3 but the x3 setting they will do this just email them that you want the x3/75kph firmware installed when you buy one

I asked badass about this when I bought one for my Yamaha and they were only able to do the 50km.

 

[soundwave]

we don’t sell the 75 kph version anymore, most people don’t care if it’s more that 50.
But if you you want if can create some „special versions“ for you with the old 3x firmware.
Just order the normal Bosch version and after that write an email that you need the 3x firmware.
It will take use some additional time to process.

Hope that helps

Kind Regards

Peter



badass eBikes GmbH
Falkenweg 1
63768 Hösbach
Germany

I can only offer the old x3 firmware, that will top out at (turbo mode) 27 kph*3=81 kph.

Regards

Peter

they do now

 

[PatMcrotch]

You can do the 75 version for the yamaha too Peter?