A way to fix 36v 14ah Lithium battery?
- Thread starter marc.knuckle
- Start date
Is there a reason this one may have blown? I didn't do anything different while charging.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You won't know until you put the new one in. Test that the battery charges before you screw it alll back together. Do you or did you plug the charger into the battery before you switch it on? That can't be good for the fuse, so do it the other way round, i.e. switch on the charger before you plug it into the battery.
Finding a reason or fault finding could be anything. Damp, shorting, shock or just over current in which case the fuse is doing its job and protecting the pcb and cells, not much different to fuses in cars when they occassionallly blow.
i invariably get muddled about this - not least because plugging it in first and switching it on can go with a spark as one plugs it into the battery, for being clear: is it plug into wall, plug into charger, switch on at wall?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
That's the way to blow the fuse and burn all the contacts.
It's especially bad for any battery with a jack plug like the bottle batteries because they have a spring contact that gets worn, then, when you pull out the jack, the contact is pulled out with it until it touches the middle one, whereupon you get that lovely plasma flash and a very difficult repair because the special sockets are not generally available.
My advice: Always plug in and switch on the charger before plugging it into the battery.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
This is charging advice from eZee.
Always plug your battery into the charger BEFORE turning the charger on /
plugging it in - If your charger shows a green light within a couple of minutes
of being switched on, it could be that your battery is fully charged or that the
charger has "misread" the battery. If you think the charger is at fault, switch off
the charger, unplug the battery, leave it one minute, then re-connect the battery and switch on the charger.
Please note all eZee batteries have a female XLR socket.
This link gives further information about eZee FP batteries and was created by Grin Technologies http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/B3615_eZee_Manual_Rev1.3.pdf
Always plug your battery into the charger BEFORE turning the charger on /
plugging it in - If your charger shows a green light within a couple of minutes
of being switched on, it could be that your battery is fully charged or that the
charger has "misread" the battery. If you think the charger is at fault, switch off
the charger, unplug the battery, leave it one minute, then re-connect the battery and switch on the charger.
Please note all eZee batteries have a female XLR socket.
This link gives further information about eZee FP batteries and was created by Grin Technologies http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/B3615_eZee_Manual_Rev1.3.pdf
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I'd also like an answer as it seems I've been charging it correctly in ezee's opinion but not in d8veh's.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
There's no need to fight over it because you have the choice of which way to do it. One way puts a risk to the battery (inserting the charge connector with the charger switched off), the other way is a risk to the charger.
The problem is the inrush to the charger's output capacitors. If the charger isn't switched on, a very high current will flow from the battery to the capacitors, which is why you get a spark at the connector. The spark will eventually damage the connector. As I said before, the jack sockets on bottle batteries are easily damaged. The 3-pin XLR plugs and kettle plugs would be more robust against that. The second problem is that that high current also goes through the charge mosfet and fuse. There's a small chance of blowing either, though the chance of the mosfet going is so small that you don't really have to worry about it.
If you switch on the charger first, the inrush comes from the charger itself. I don't fully understand all the circuitry on the output side, but I would guess that the inrush is damped enough to not do any damage. Maybe some chargers are or used to be a bit suspect in that area, which is what caused people to decide to plug the battery in first5. A lot of these strange rules and ideas go back a long way before the systems were properly developed. Maybe to the days with SLAs without BMSs.
Whatever the reason, A charger is a lot cheaper to replace than a battery. I guess a lot of people will be writing off their bottle batteries, when they plug in the switched off charger, but there we are.
The problem is the inrush to the charger's output capacitors. If the charger isn't switched on, a very high current will flow from the battery to the capacitors, which is why you get a spark at the connector. The spark will eventually damage the connector. As I said before, the jack sockets on bottle batteries are easily damaged. The 3-pin XLR plugs and kettle plugs would be more robust against that. The second problem is that that high current also goes through the charge mosfet and fuse. There's a small chance of blowing either, though the chance of the mosfet going is so small that you don't really have to worry about it.
If you switch on the charger first, the inrush comes from the charger itself. I don't fully understand all the circuitry on the output side, but I would guess that the inrush is damped enough to not do any damage. Maybe some chargers are or used to be a bit suspect in that area, which is what caused people to decide to plug the battery in first5. A lot of these strange rules and ideas go back a long way before the systems were properly developed. Maybe to the days with SLAs without BMSs.
Whatever the reason, A charger is a lot cheaper to replace than a battery. I guess a lot of people will be writing off their bottle batteries, when they plug in the switched off charger, but there we are.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Hi Dave,
I follow the advise given by eZee when it comes to XLT connectors, i.e. I connect the charger to the battery before switching on mains power to the charger, then turn on the charger with it's own switch.
I quite understand what you say when it comes to other types of charger and connector.
Right, i finally got the replacement fuse and after putting it in it has charged fine. Cheers for all the help with this guys.
So, now 2 questions.
1) it still seems that the question regarding how to connect the charger is open without a definite answer. There was mention i think about it varying dependent on the connector type. With this in mind, the type i have had the metal, bell type housing with 3 connectors so which way is best?
2) the charger has a dial with fuse written in it. What's this for and where should it be set to?
Thanks guys.
So, now 2 questions.
1) it still seems that the question regarding how to connect the charger is open without a definite answer. There was mention i think about it varying dependent on the connector type. With this in mind, the type i have had the metal, bell type housing with 3 connectors so which way is best?
2) the charger has a dial with fuse written in it. What's this for and where should it be set to?
Thanks guys.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Hi Marc,
That's good news
In answer to question 1, see my reply in post number 52. The connector that you have is an XLR type.
As for question 2, that is the external fuse holder for the charger, you don't need to do anything with it.
That's good news
In answer to question 1, see my reply in post number 52. The connector that you have is an XLR type.
As for question 2, that is the external fuse holder for the charger, you don't need to do anything with it.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I've done a little bit more research on the subject of the charging procedure. Ebike chargers have an inrush charge limiter (ICL) inboard of the output capacitors. Therefore, it is no problem to switch the charger on at the mains before plugging in to the mains. Without the ICL, the inrush to the capacitors when you switch on would damage the upstream components.
If you plug the battery in before switching on the charger, there is nothing limiting the inrush, so you get massive current coming out of your battery for a very short time while the capacitors charge, which is what causes the spark. Without an ICL protecting the BMS, the charge fuse or the connectors, damage will occur.
My recomendation therefore is to disregard any instruction or advice from the supplier, and always switch your charger on first before connecting the battery.
If you plug the battery in before switching on the charger, there is nothing limiting the inrush, so you get massive current coming out of your battery for a very short time while the capacitors charge, which is what causes the spark. Without an ICL protecting the BMS, the charge fuse or the connectors, damage will occur.
My recomendation therefore is to disregard any instruction or advice from the supplier, and always switch your charger on first before connecting the battery.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
Quote from Wai Won Ching, CEO eZee Bikes on the topic of battery charging.
"Chargers and battery BMS technology or simply electronic engineering has been making improvements to correct all the hitches, bugs or trouble spots experienced in the past.
Our recommendation for the chargers from 3 - 4 years ago was to have the power off before connecting to the battery simply because it would not work otherwise.
Our current chargers and battery BMS have all the protection for the current surges either way."
"Chargers and battery BMS technology or simply electronic engineering has been making improvements to correct all the hitches, bugs or trouble spots experienced in the past.
Our recommendation for the chargers from 3 - 4 years ago was to have the power off before connecting to the battery simply because it would not work otherwise.
Our current chargers and battery BMS have all the protection for the current surges either way."