It's push/pull but there's also torque, and I'd further worry that it'll act through the bar onto the frame, which isn't designed for force being applied on those points at those angles- could your frame bend? Like you said, I may be overworrying.
The 9mm QR is made of strong material designed for high loads, and is likely stronger than the bolt on the end of the arm holding on the hitching point? If you're certain that bolt won't break, or the bar won't bend, or bend or damage your bike frame, or the bands won't snap. Sorry Nealh, I worry about metal addons.I think it will be safer and stronger then relying on the 9mm QR to take all the strain, as I said the strain is taken by the three securing points so no one will be taking all the strain.
I'd only insist you told me, if you did a spacewalk to get it.I'm not bothered about the bolt holding the hitch on, it is made from aerospace aluminium used in the UK's space program. I can't tell you how I acquired it.
I was thinking along those lines, it would be cheaper to buy the correct box size ali and using a plumbers heavy duty pipe bender to put an offset bend in the tube.247.50 euros for a looong arm
Buy as we know only 45kg max load.The 9mm QR is made of strong material designed for high loads, and is likely stronger than the bolt on the end of the arm holding on the hitching point? If you're certain that bolt won't break, or the bar won't bend, or bend or damage your bike frame, or the bands won't snap. Sorry Nealh, I worry about metal addons.
There'd be warning signs unless something suddenly bends or snaps - paint cracking and/or flaking off the bike frame due to bends/flexing, would be something to watch out for.Buy as we know only 45kg max load.
That's not too much of an ouchThis 0.5m extender is abit cheaper at £86 - £95.
View attachment 47227
Presumably the alloy they use is stronger? Don't know much about CF's "aluminium 6061T6" - so maybe if you were to try the above, perhaps use a slightly thicker and stronger purer aluminium box section, to match 6061T6's strength and stiffness? Doesn't sound like an easy bending operation - copper is much softer and the pipes which plumber's bending tools are usually used for, are comparitively narrow. You might need some sort of machine with more grunt for box section? A trial run would be worth it, if you've got some scrap aluminium box section of similar size lying around. Aluminium might need to be heated while bending, to prevent fatique/cracking? Copper is more ductile than aluminium.I was thinking along those lines, it would be cheaper to buy the correct box size ali and using a plumbers heavy duty pipe bender to put an offset bend in the tube.
1500mm x 25mm x 25mm x 3mm ali box section £22 inc p&p on ebay.
I'd consider covering the plastic collars under those clips with self-amalgamating rubber tape, to stop dirt entering between the collars and the paintwork - over time, small movemnets will move grit, acting as sandpaper wearing away that lovely paintwork.The other day I realised with my modded trailer and the extra frame work of the long tail ute, I would have an issue connecting the tow arm as well as straining the QR with all the towing weight.
So I put my heath robinson thinking cap on to come up with a solution I think will work by adding a new towing hitch.
400mm of 25mm x 6mm aluminium & 3 x 18mm P clips and 3 x nuts and bolts to sturdily tie the ali bar to the bike frame in three places, the combined tie points should be strong enough to spread the pull load on the bike frame rather then just using the axle alone.
My heath attachment of the bar puts the tow hitch much further back and easier to hook up the trailer. The three P clips giving a good secure anchor to three points on the rear frame.
View attachment 47222
With the panniers fitted most of it is hidden.
View attachment 47223
The rear looking view shows little, also by adding the bar for the hitch attachment I was able to lower the hitch beneath the axle so it is at a height to suit the trailers 20" wheel better. This allow a more level sitting trailer rather then one slightly pitch up at the front.
View attachment 47224
This solution I fear, will cause your bike (at the very least paintwork) problems. And it's nice paintwork, at the mo.The other day I realised with my modded trailer and the extra frame work of the long tail ute, I would have an issue connecting the tow arm as well as straining the QR with all the towing weight.
So I put my heath robinson thinking cap on to come up with a solution I think will work by adding a new towing hitch.
400mm of 25mm x 6mm aluminium & 3 x 18mm P clips and 3 x nuts and bolts to sturdily tie the ali bar to the bike frame in three places, the combined tie points should be strong enough to spread the pull load on the bike frame rather then just using the axle alone.
My heath attachment of the bar puts the tow hitch much further back and easier to hook up the trailer. The three P clips giving a good secure anchor to three points on the rear frame.
View attachment 47222
With the panniers fitted most of it is hidden.
View attachment 47223
The rear looking view shows little, also by adding the bar for the hitch attachment I was able to lower the hitch beneath the axle so it is at a height to suit the trailers 20" wheel better. This allow a more level sitting trailer rather then one slightly pitch up at the front.
View attachment 47224
I don't know enough about anything to do with bikes to give out tips Nealh - I just try to think about what might or might not happen based on my small knowledge gleaned largely from Metalwork and Design Technology "O" levels at school, which needless to say was a very long time ago. It's all b*llocks you're best advised to filter. Hope it all works out well.I have used your tip and placed a wrap of amalgam tape to the frame first then the P clip over it, also I went with your other tip and have insatlled a new rectangular hollow section bar with a 30mm x 12mm section.