500 miles done!

[Quark]

Hi all,

Just thought I would share my happiness at reaching my first 500 miles on my homebuilt electric bike, I have been commuting to work almost every day since finishing it and I don't plan to look back, in fact I'm already planning my next build which will include improvements such as full suspension and a lower C of G for my battery pack. I also intend to upgrade to 60v nominal. I'm really enjoying my 25 mile round trips to work and back, obviously the weather is making it more of a pleasure but riding in the rain hasn't put me off yet, winter might be a different story though!

Thanks for the inspiration.

Q

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I'm glad it's worked out OK.
I don't remember seeing any photos or finished spec for the bike. Come on, cough them up!

 

[Quark]

Ok photos to follow but specs for the moment are:
Standard GT chucker MTB
Crystalyte HS3540 rear hub motor
72v 100A capable Lyen controller
48v (58.4v) lifepo4 16s headway cells (In a rear motorcycle box for the moment)
Cruise control, cycle analyst, twist throttle
Max speed so far 37mph, 30mph on flat, 20mph general cruise speed to prolong battery life/range

It makes for a very enjoyable little electric cruiser, increasing battery voltage will allow me to increase my cruising speed to around 30mph with a bit of luck.

 

[mountainsport]

Ok photos to follow but specs for the moment are:
Standard GT chucker MTB
Crystalyte HS3540 rear hub motor
72v 100A capable Lyen controller
48v (58.4v) lifepo4 16s headway cells (In a rear motorcycle box for the moment)
Cruise control, cycle analyst, twist throttle
Max speed so far 37mph, 30mph on flat, 20mph general cruise speed to prolong battery life/range

It makes for a very enjoyable little electric cruiser, increasing battery voltage will allow me to increase my cruising speed to around 30mph with a bit of luck.

Hi Quark, when you say max speed 37mph, do you mean achieving this by going down hill? I thought that we used the flat as a guideline for maximum speed.

MS

 

[Quark]

Hi sorry wasn't aware of the standard being on the flat, I can definitely achieve 30mph on the flat maybe even 32/33 with a full charge and yes it was down hill that I hit 37mph, again I think with a full charge I could hit 40mph, problem is I can only pedal up to maybe 33 before I run out of gearing, this I also hope to sort with my improvement build. Once I upgrade my batteries who knows what I could achieve. Hope to record some video footage of my ride to work soon.

 

[103Alex1]

again I think with a full charge I could hit 40mph, problem is I can only pedal up to maybe 33 before I run out of gearing, this I also hope to sort with my improvement build.

Make sure you've got some blooming decent brakes too - The stopping distance at >40mph even with hydraulic discs is frightening, especially on a steep downhill. Cars often seem to be able to slow more effectively which can land you in hot water very easily at those speeds even if they're in front of you.

 

[mountainsport]

Hi sorry wasn't aware of the standard being on the flat, I can definitely achieve 30mph on the flat maybe even 32/33 with a full charge and yes it was down hill that I hit 37mph, again I think with a full charge I could hit 40mph, problem is I can only pedal up to maybe 33 before I run out of gearing, this I also hope to sort with my improvement build. Once I upgrade my batteries who knows what I could achieve. Hope to record some video footage of my ride to work soon.

Thank you for replying, I doubt that you'll be getting anymore responses after this.

MS.

 

[trex]

A few times, I brake too hard on one side and found one of the two wheels on my bike locking up under braking, sending the bike into a side slide. It's quite frightening even at 20-25mph. It's definitely not sensible to keep assistance at over 25mph.

 

[103Alex1]

A few times, I brake too hard on one side and found one of the two wheels on my bike locking up under braking, sending the bike into a side slide. It's quite frightening even at 20-25mph. It's definitely not sensible to keep assistance at over 25mph.

^^ You definitely need to be extra careful riding over 25mph in most conditions except perhaps clear straight quiet open roads.... the 30-40+mph zone is a whole different ball game and frame / construction really needs to be built with a view to riding those speeds. I reckon heavy downhill-type bike is best for eBike and should be OK but that's only a personal opinion. Not taken my hardtail over 42.5mph yet and only did that when the c.o.g had been lowered and brake pads replaced and worn in. Was surprisingly good stability wise, but you're VERY aware of how long it takes to safely come to a stop... not to mention how hard the bumps feel if you've locked out the suspension !

Only ever had the bike side slide after an oncoming car forced me into deep wet leaves hiding at the side of a dark shady narrow lane on a steep slope rolleyes. Fortunately didn't go over completely but was thanking god I was only doing a few mph - and it did trigger a few rushes of adrenaline ... not of the pleasant kind !

 

[mountainsport]

Alex,

Is there any simple way to tell if your bike or frame is not suitable for fitting an ebike kit ? Also what causes a brake/s to lockout ,even at low speeds?

MS

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Once you go over 30mph, you need decent rear suspension to keep your tyre in contact with the road, and to make sure that your kidneys don't get stewed.

Bicycle tyres generally do not have a large enough contact area to provide sufficient grip under hard braking if you have a heavy bike and/or you're a heavy rider. The tyre grip can easily be overwhelmed by the brakes. I'm sure many of us have locked up going down a hill with a sharp bend at the bottom. I know I did, and nearly ended up dropping 20ft into the River Severn.

Most of us only go fast downhill occasionally, and we only let rip when we can see it's clear, but if you cruise round at 30mph plus, the number of occasions that cause hard braking would probably increase a lot. On Endless Sphere, loads of people have fast bikes, but they tend to use fatter tyres, good hydraulic brakes and strong full-suspension down-hill bikes. Decent hydraulic brakes helps a lot, but if you're going too fast, the best brakes in the world won't help.

My bike broke traction during acceleration at the Bristol event due to narrow tyres (1.95) and slightly compromised surface. I got pretty badly banged up as a result even though I didn't hit anything apart from the road. My brain got totally stewed even though I was wearing a helmet. I don't want to go through that again: It still hurts a lot 4 weeks after. Next time I'll have the widest best grip tyres I can fit, and I'm going to win it like I would've that time except for the tyres.

To answer your question MS, just about any bike frame is suitable to convert, but obviously, the more power you have, the better brakes, tyres and suspension you need.

 

[mountainsport]

Once you go over 30mph, you need decent rear suspension to keep your tyre in contact with the road, and to make sure that your kidneys don't get stewed.

Bicycle tyres generally do not have a large enough contact area to provide sufficient grip under hard braking if you have a heavy bike and/or you're a heavy rider. The tyre grip can easily be overwhelmed by the brakes. I'm sure many of us have locked up going down a hill with a sharp bend at the bottom. I know I did, and nearly ended up dropping 20ft into the River Severn.

Most of us only go fast downhill occasionally, and we only let rip when we can see it's clear, but if you cruise round at 30mph plus, the number of occasions that cause hard braking would probably increase a lot. On Endless Sphere, loads of people have fast bikes, but they tend to use fatter tyres, good hydraulic brakes and strong full-suspension down-hill bikes. Decent hydraulic brakes helps a lot, but if you're going too fast, the best brakes in the world won't help.

My bike broke traction during acceleration at the Bristol event due to narrow tyres (1.95) and slightly compromised surface. I got pretty badly banged up as a result even though I didn't hit anything apart from the road. My brain got totally stewed even though I was wearing a helmet. I don't want to go through that again: It still hurts a lot 4 weeks after. Next time I'll have the widest best grip tyres I can fit, and I'm going to win it like I would've that time except for the tyres.

To answer your question MS, just about any bike frame is suitable to convert, but obviously, the more power you have, the better brakes, tyres and suspension you need.

Hi d8veh I was beginning to worry, I thought that you had sold your cruise liner, then had flown out somewhere nice to get away from me and Lynda. In a perverted way I even went as far as photocopying all your entire posts. I'm sure that Lynda's way is far more intense and extensive

d8veh my mountain bike wheels are 26 inches, would you be kind enough as usual to send me a few links of fat quality tyres, because my bike is a hardtail type.

MS.

 

[Quark]

Hi all,
Well thanks for all the replies, my route to work is very open rolling country side with plenty of view of the road ahead, you are right about the stopping distances, you need to think ahead and start planning to stop way before you need to, I also find it helpful to assume every driver out there hasnt seen me and wants to try and knock me off my bike and then ride to avoid them, so far so good, its a trick I learned as a long serving motorcycle rider. Oh I use regen braking on the back, its stops me seriously fast but is way too agressive for most applications so I only use it when I need to. Anyway heres some pics of the bike.

Q

 

[Deleted member 4366]

A lot of people seem to use these if you have space in your frame:
MAXXIS Hookworm 26x2.50" | £23.03 | Bike Tyres | 26 inch Tyres | MailOrderBikes

 

[Alan Quay]

I have fitted Schwalbe Fat Franks (2.3) to my bike, and they are pretty good on road, and passable on gravel. The Schwalbe big apples are reputed to be about the same, although you can get them in 2.3, 2.15, an 2.00 (i think).

Never gone above 30mph though.

 

[mountainsport]

At least you had stuck to your promise very quickly nice pictures.

MS.

 

[mountainsport]

A lot of people seem to use these if you have space in your frame:
MAXXIS Hookworm 26x2.50" | £23.03 | Bike Tyres | 26 inch Tyres | MailOrderBikes

Are they good for avoiding punctures and are they tubeless ?

MS

 

[Quark]

Thanks MS, I'm using a shwalbe big apple on the rear 2.00 x 26 they are great tyres, loads of grip and puncture resistant, also good for the extra weight I'm now carrying.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Are they good for avoiding punctures and are they tubeless ?

MS

They're designed for extreme mountain-biking, which is what you do, so should be a good match. I've no idea whether they have good puncture resistance. I guess better than some, but not as good as others.