48V lights - suggestions?

[Peddlin' Pedro]

Posted in response to another thread but thought it might get more engagement as a stand-alone, so...

I'd like to run 48V lights from a Hailong 48V 17.5Ah pack, switched by a 6V relay controlled by the TSDZ2's 6V lighting circuit. This has been discussed elsewhere but never to the extent of suggesting part specs or a suitable wiring schematic.

EDIT: Also open to going directly form the powerpack without the 6v switching if that's simpler and equally or more reliable.

Use-case is multiple daily trips in all weathers and lighting conditions for school trips, shopping runs and general daily tasks. Riding environment includes busy towns, some major roads and also unlit roads and country lanes. As such, being seen is important but so is being able to see on dark roads. I'm using rechargeable blinkies and an old Exposure Enduro as a stopgap but they're not ideal as keeping them charged and removing/refitting at each stop is a pain, and at some point I'll forget to take them off the bike and they'll get pinched.

While I can wire a plug, drive a soldering iron, follow instructions and even use a multimeter without blowing myself across the room, I probably know just enough to get into trouble. Hopefully this won't just help me but could benefit others considering doing the same.

I'd be grateful for advice on a few specific points shown in the attached attempt at a circuit diagram (try and laugh quietly if you could):

1. The existing fuse installed in the battery mounting is marked only as '34V', with no amperage shown. This despite it being a 48V pack. Is that normal?

2. I understand that a diode is needed across the coil on the relay to avoid spikes damaging nearby components, but what spec should this be?

3. Where should I fuse the separate circuit that I spur off the battery connectors, and to what spec?

4. What relay would be best for this application? Solid-state or mechanical? Latching or non-latching?

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

 

[vfr400]

Stop saying Hairon. There's no such thing. It's Hailong!

 

[Peddlin' Pedro]

Stop saying Hairon. There's no such thing. It's Hailong!

Apologies, had no idea this was such a big deal. It's listed on my invoice and on the PSW Power site as 'Hairon'. Edited the post so hopefully that'll calm your nerves. Any other thoughts?

 

[vfr400]

Apologies, had no idea this was such a big deal. It's listed on my invoice and on the PSW Power site as 'Hairon'. Edited the post so hopefully that'll calm your nerves. Any other thoughts?

Thank you. Yes, I've seen listings where it's spelt incorrectly. Hailong isn't a battery type as such. Hailong only make the case, which they sell to battery makers. What's inside the case is different every time I open one. there are good battery makers and bad ones. Unfortunately, you can't tell from the outside and it'd rare to see a battery makers label on the case.

I've said everything about your proposal already. I think it's flawed in that you're using a switch to operate another switch that switches on the lights. That doesn't make sense to me when you could operate a light switch directly with simpler wiring that would give you a safer and more reliable solution.

 

[Peddlin' Pedro]

Thank you. Yes, I've seen listings where it's spelt incorrectly. Hailong isn't a battery type as such. Hailong only make the case, which they sell to battery makers. What's inside the case is different every time I open one. there are good battery makers and bad ones. Unfortunately, you can't tell from the outside and it'd rare to see a battery makers label on the case.

I've said everything about your proposal already. I think it's flawed in that you're using a switch to operate another switch that switches on the lights. That doesn't make sense to me when you could operate a light switch directly with simpler wiring that would give you a safer and more reliable solution.

Fair enough, thank you. And yes, aware that the name refers to the enclosure rather than the contents or how they're wired. All I know about ours is that it came from PSW Power with LG cells specified as INR18650 MJ1 3500mAh.

I'm not overly attached to the concept of using the 6V supply for switching if the alternative is simpler and equally or more reliable. Could you suggest a wiring schematic for your suggestion, i.e. where would you take off power at the pack, and where and to what spec would you fuse it?

 

[vfr400]

where would you take off power at the pack, and where and to what spec would you fuse it?

I would solder the wires for the lights to the main power wires inside the battery receiver, in the box where the integrated controller would go. There's a fuse in there, so anywhere downstream of the fuse. You can stick the lights fuse in there too. A 1 amp fuse should be enough, but the only thing it's protecting against is a short circuit, so you could go to 2A for a bit more headroom. Where you put the switch is up to you. When i had direct battery lighting, I drilled the case of my headlight and mounted a waterproof toggle switch to keep the handlebars clear.

 

[Peddlin' Pedro]

Thanks again for this @vfr400 . Finally got some time to get on with it, so recommendations, anyone, for:

• 48v rear lights that will run for more than five minutes without going pop or leaking and doing the same
• Suitable connectors/taps to take power off at the battery, and also fuse housings
• Reliable bar-mounted switches

All bits need to be durable and reasonably weather resistant - or able to be made so - as the bike is used daily regardless of the weather.

 

[Swizz]

Posted in response to another thread but thought it might get more engagement as a stand-alone, so...

I'd like to run 48V lights from a Hailong 48V 17.5Ah pack, switched by a 6V relay controlled by the TSDZ2's 6V lighting circuit. This has been discussed elsewhere but never to the extent of suggesting part specs or a suitable wiring schematic.

EDIT: Also open to going directly form the powerpack without the 6v switching if that's simpler and equally or more reliable.

Use-case is multiple daily trips in all weathers and lighting conditions for school trips, shopping runs and general daily tasks. Riding environment includes busy towns, some major roads and also unlit roads and country lanes. As such, being seen is important but so is being able to see on dark roads. I'm using rechargeable blinkies and an old Exposure Enduro as a stopgap but they're not ideal as keeping them charged and removing/refitting at each stop is a pain, and at some point I'll forget to take them off the bike and they'll get pinched.

While I can wire a plug, drive a soldering iron, follow instructions and even use a multimeter without blowing myself across the room, I probably know just enough to get into trouble. Hopefully this won't just help me but could benefit others considering doing the same.

I'd be grateful for advice on a few specific points shown in the attached attempt at a circuit diagram (try and laugh quietly if you could):

1. The existing fuse installed in the battery mounting is marked only as '34V', with no amperage shown. This despite it being a 48V pack. Is that normal?

2. I understand that a diode is needed across the coil on the relay to avoid spikes damaging nearby components, but what spec should this be?

3. Where should I fuse the separate circuit that I spur off the battery connectors, and to what spec?

4. What relay would be best for this application? Solid-state or mechanical? Latching or non-latching?

Any other suggestions? Thanks.

Heyoo,
Circuit looks fine with the fuse before the relay.
Re: the relay - Eco in the US stock one
Similar one here from RS
Re the diode, this website suggests a 1N4148 diode. RS only sell them in bulk so maybe a job for eBay?
Luck!
Isla

 

[Peddlin' Pedro]

Thanks @Swizz and apologies for not responding soonerer. Boring stuff keeps jumping the queue. Going to leave the relay-switching idea alone and just come straight off the battery with either direct inline switching or just 'battery on = lights on'.

Managed to bag these for a steal in the BF deals though; both rated for 6-60V, with the IQ-X E having a beam-pattern that's ideal for the riding I do.

Anyone got any recommendations for decent - and compact - inline fuse-holders? And would you go with XT60s down stream of the fuse? Also, can anyone recommend a not-too-bulky bar-mounted 48V-capable light switch?

 

[Swizz]

Nooo worries.

Fuse? I used an inline micro fuse >>> https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00904N85G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_qJPYFbK4Q3AWK ...and squeezed it into the base of the battery with the other.

 

[jimriley]

I split the power wire out of the battery, feed the lights direct with 36v, through an isolating switch and micro inline fuse, light switch on the handlebars. Also USB socket for phone and a 36v horn, Meep Meep! all the gubbins is contained in a small belt pouch strapped to the headset.