4000w 60V 38Ah electric racing scooter

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

Don't worry about making a video. Answering ALL of the questions asked will be of more use to us.

Did the fault you describe when turning the handlebars occur at the same time as the repair, or did it exist previously?

Do you own a multimeter?

no when I first got this scooter I noticed it would drop the voltage when turning left, then I noticed melting phase wires(blue+green), so I changed them all to stronger blocks, but the voltage fault started happening not long after it arrived and before the phase wire fix.
Now as I say, upon twisting throttle it jerks once then stops, same thing with turning it left -it jolts then stops.

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

no when I first got this scooter I noticed it would drop the voltage when turning left, then I noticed melting phase wires(blue+green), so I changed them all to stronger blocks, but the voltage fault started happening not long after it arrived and before the phase wire fix.
Now as I say, upon twisting throttle it jerks once then stops, same thing with turning it left -it jolts then stops.

 

[danielrlee]

Please can you read my posts properly before replying. In nearly every reply there are questions that remain unanswered.

Again, do you own a multimeter?

Are you able to inspect the cables running from the handlebars for damage at the point where the handlebars fold down? It sounds like there is possibly an intermittent short/fault somewhere and experience tells me it could be at this point.

You mention the brake mounted on the handlebar. Is this just a mechanical brake, or is there also an electrical connection running from the brake handle (motor cutout)?

 

[mountainsport]

what a beast, I'd want a seat though.

And at least front suspension.

MS.

 

[mountainsport]

Hello, what happened was when I looked under the footplate I noticed a couple of the phase wires(blue+yellow)were melting the plastic housing, so I replaced them with stronger solid brass connections, then the problems started. Upon turning ignition and twisting throttle it would jolt momentarily then stop dead, only occasionally turning it off then back in again would it work for a second jolt again then nothing, I stumped.
All the while the voltage meter stays level, what's going on?.

This is ridiculous and this gets me very agree because you should not have to be going through all this stress after departing with your money.

MS.

 

[mountainsport]

Sorry, but I have to jump in now and this is the third time, do you have a multimeter?
danielrlee has asked you twice for a simple answer and he is also willing to help. This will quicken the fault process.

MS.

 

[danielrlee]

Sorry, but I have to jump in now and this is the third time, do you have a multimeter?
danielrlee has asked you twice for a simple answer and he is also willing to help. This will quicken the fault process.

MS.

Actually that was the FIFTH time.

OP, these questions are not being asked just for the sake of it. Apologies if it appears that we are being a bit snappy with you, but we require answers to certain questions in order to aid troubleshooting.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

For information, OP sent me a PM on Saturday. I spelled out to her probable causes and which tests to do. Here's my reply to her question that was basically the same as post#1. Note the last sentence:

That's an interesting scooter. I've not see one before. In principle, the electrical system should be the same as an electric bicycle, so I can help you - maybe.

I have to make some assumptions because they don't give enough info about it. I will therefore assume that it uses a typical 3-phase brushless motor and conventional brushless motor controller. They all work the same, regardless of power.

I don't know what you know, so I'll start from the beginning. A three phase brushless motor is powered by pulses of power from the controller. The pulses have to come at the right time relative to when the magnets pass the coils. There's lots of magnets and coils in the motor in three groups, so lots of pulses are needed. The problem now is that you're not getting all the pulses at the right time. To find out why, you need to do electrical tests.

There's common causes for your problem:
1. A faulty connection on one of the motor wires.
2. A blown MOSFET in the controller.
3. A blown or faulty hall sensor in the motor. The three hall sensors give positional feedback to the controller.

If you had fault 1 or 3 you can get fault 2 consequentially. When a three phase motor won't turn because one phase is disconnected or a hall sensor doesn't give the timing signal, the controller is still giving full power when you open the throttle, but it's like there's a stick through the spokes. The end result is that you get massive current through the controller, which can't go anywhere so things heat up and blow. Therefore, you should never give more than a little bit of throttle when the motor won't turn. The reason that your voltage goes down is because of this very large current flowing, like a short circuit. As long as you didn't do it for too long, your controller might still be OK if the fault is 1 or 3 above.

There's electrical tests for each of the three causes, for which you need a multimeter, but you can check the easy things first. Do these tests in this sequence:

1. Follow the wires from the motor to the controller. Check every connector to make sure that they're properly together and that all the pins are where they should be.
2. Check that there's no damage to the motor wires anywhere.
3. Rotate the wheel by hand in both directions. You should be able to feel a bit of resistance as each magnet passes each coil, so a bit notchy as it turns. If it sticks or is very difficult to turn, it means that there's a problem in the motor or controller. If you identify this fault, do test 4.
4. Disconnect the motor from the controller and try again. If it turns like it should the problem is in the controller. If it's the same, it's in the motor.

Let me know the results of these tests, then we can take it further. Please don't jump to conclusions and do other tests. If you follow my guidelines, you'll get to the cause quickly.



Then I sent her this:

Some additional info:
It appears that a company in USA designed and makes this scooter in a quality version, then the Chinese got hold of one and started rip-off copies.

Here's the original with the drive on the left side:
http://www.works-electric.com/b14/

Here's a British seller selling a Chinese rip-off, which might be the same as yours. In the actual photo, it shows the drive on the right side, though the details below are lifted directly from the Works Electric web-site and shows a left side drive. This supplier might have spare parts.
http://www.e-scooters.co.uk/street-riders-thunderchief-4000w-racing-electric-scooter-586-p.asp

 

[Fordulike]

Frickamoly two and a half grand

Bet the 10Kw one is fun though

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

lwa

Actually that was the FIFTH time.

OP, these questions are not being asked just for the sake of it. Apologies if it appears that we are being a bit snappy with you, but we require answers to certain questions in order to aid troubleshooting.

sorry for late reply, and i really am sorry for being so vague regarding some details, apologies for not being so specific and detailed when i clearly should have been..
i dont have a multimeter nor the expertise.
Now it is accelerating by itself when turning left, jolts once then nothing, twist throttle nothing, turn scooter left and it jerks forward.

I REALLY DO APPRECIATE ALL OF YOUR HELP AND ASSISTANCE ON THIS FORUM GUYS, BUT IM RESIGNING MYSELF TO THE FACT THAT I WILL PROBABLY NEVER HAVE THIS HING WORKING AGAIN.
THE COMPANY "ETHON BIKE TECHNOLOGY" ARE NOT ANSWERING MY CALLS, E-MAILS OR WHATSSAPP,
I SHOULD HAVE KEPT MY MONEY, INVESTIGATED THIS COMPANY AND SCOOTER INTERNALLY A LOT SOONER.

 

[mountainsport]

Frickamoly two and a half grand

Bet the 10Kw one is fun though

Fordulike I think that you are over exaggerating a fair bit its £2499.99

 

[Alan Quay]

lwa


sorry for late reply, and i really am sorry for being so vague regarding some details, apologies for not being so specific and detailed when i clearly should have been..
i dont have a multimeter nor the expertise.
Now it is accelerating by itself when turning left, jolts once then nothing, twist throttle nothing, turn scooter left and it jerks forward.

I REALLY DO APPRECIATE ALL OF YOUR HELP AND ASSISTANCE ON THIS FORUM GUYS, BUT IM RESIGNING MYSELF TO THE FACT THAT I WILL PROBABLY NEVER HAVE THIS HING WORKING AGAIN.
THE COMPANY "ETHON BIKE TECHNOLOGY" ARE NOT ANSWERING MY CALLS, E-MAILS OR WHATSSAPP,
I SHOULD HAVE KEPT MY MONEY, INVESTIGATED THIS COMPANY AND SCOOTER INTERNALLY A LOT SOONER.

Give us a rough idea of your location. If I'm close in the next few weeks (and I might be) I wil be happy to take a look.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[D8ve]

Alan or others may help if they are close.
Your thing has a working motor, the turn the bars shows this it also hints very strongly that broken wires are making contact when the bars are turned. You know it's a bit like cross word puzzles fault finding its a challenge and give pleasure when you fix it. So keep up and let us know roughly where you are. Then PM address to who ever is closest offers help and has a good feedback on site. Not someone who joined yesterday.
Me I'm south west so I'm out.

 

[Artstu]

They're in South Tyneside no9 ***** *****

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

Actually that was the FIFTH time.

OP, these questions are not being asked just for the sake of it. Apologies if it appears that we are being a bit snappy with you, but we require answers to certain questions in order to aid troubleshooting.

Right ok, first apologies for being so vague with the full details at first, I have been very busy and preoccupied.
I now have a multimeter, how do I go about using this multimeter to check for faults?.
And again "Thank You" for all of your your help and assistance danielrlee..

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

Alan or others may help if they are close.
Your thing has a working motor, the turn the bars shows this it also hints very strongly that broken wires are making contact when the bars are turned. You know it's a bit like cross word puzzles fault finding its a challenge and give pleasure when you fix it. So keep up and let us know roughly where you are. Then PM address to who ever is closest offers help and has a good feedback on site. Not someone who joined yesterday.
Me I'm south west so I'm out.

Fordulike I think that you are over exaggerating a fair bit its £2499.99

That sit is fake mate, the last one was called e-skate-boards.co.uk, they were taken down for multiple fraud, the sit has no phone number and just like the last one it states itself as as "distributor and supplier" of electric scooters and skateboards. It's fake.

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

Please can you read my posts properly before replying. In nearly every reply there are questions that remain unanswered.

Again, do you own a multimeter?

Are you able to inspect the cables running from the handlebars for damage at the point where the handlebars fold down? It sounds like there is possibly an intermittent short/fault somewhere and experience tells me it could be at this point.

You mention the brake mounted on the handlebar. Is this just a mechanical brake, or is there also an electrical connection running from the brake handle (motor cutout)?

There is an electrical connection going from brake clutch to controller, it is like a manual cut off, but I disconnected it.

 

[danielrlee]

Have you been able to inspect the electrical cables that run from the handlebars to the controller for any obvious signs of damage? The point at which the handlebars fold is an area that is particularly prone to damage or failure.

 

[Mrs Tracey Connolly]

Have you been able to inspect the electrical cables that run from the handlebars to the controller for any obvious signs of damage? The point at which the handlebars fold is an area that is particularly prone to damage or failure.

Yes I have and it all seems fine, strange thing is that now the voltage dropping issue is fixed, the handle bar wire tension was too tight and now I does not drop when turning left.
but now it runs for a few second then I hear a grunt under my feet then it shuts off, but when I switch the ignition to LED lights it again works again for a second then stops!, turning it off then on again does this over and over again, what is going on?.

 

[Fordulike]

Yes I have and it all seems fine, strange thing is that now the voltage dropping issue is fixed, the handle bar wire tension was too tight and now I does not drop when turning left.
but now it runs for a few second then I hear a grunt under my feet then it shuts off, but when I switch the ignition to LED lights it again works again for a second then stops!, turning it off then on again does this over and over again, what is going on?.

Make sure the battery is fully charged and try again.

One of your pictures showed 54 volts, which is a bit low for a 60 volt battery.