3D printer recommendations?

[guerney]

Can somebody please fill me in? I remember the "under the kitchen sink collection"; useless gadgets that came with the plugs ready cut off so they could go straight under the kitchen sink. I assumed it was Monty Python, but can't find it.

I don't think that was Python, this is though:

 

[guerney]

Does anyone know if electronic contour guages are available at a reasonable price? Could fit anything to anything with one of those, without the need for scanning. I suppose I could measure manual contour guages one rod at a time in a 2D grid, then build a wireframe in CAD.

Saker® Connection Contour Gauge

Saker Connection Contour Gaugecan copy any shape immediately. The greatest upgrade of the newly designed contour gauge is that it can be disassembled unlimitedly, and you can measure the contours of items as long as you want. You can easily create instant templates for curved and odd-shaped...

www.sakertool.co.uk

 

[guerney]

Digital Surface profile Gauge (Model B with Separate probe) 0-500µm / 20mils

The Elcometer 224 provides the very latest in surface profile measurement technology for measuring profile on either flat or curved surfaces. Fast and reliable peak-to-valley surface profile measurement Accurately measure surface profile on flat or curved surfaces up to 500μm (20mils)...

sfeg.co.uk

 

[RetiredAndRolling]

Prusa Mini is a good printer. I’ve designed a few things for it and printed very many models from free libraries. Just today I printed three things. Often the simplest models can be the most useful. Once you get a printer you will probably find many uses for it. I did.

Design software: FreeCAD. It outputs STL files.
Slicing software: Prusa Slicer. It outputs GCode.
Printer: takes GCode on a memory stick

search engine to find ready-to-print models

 

[AndyBike]

As I understand it theres a range of materials these printers print with, mostly plastic, but metallic too.
However, is there a material that is like a soft rubber.?

What I was thinking is a enclosure for the display unit.
Mine is purion, and although its claimed to be waterproof for the most part, but in torrential rain I dont really think it is given the buttons and joints etc.

So what I was thinking is a 2 piece of softish rubber that you fit over it, for example you remove from the bars, squeeze the unit into the lower half and refit to the bars,then fit an upper cover so that it protected from the back and front too.
Obviously you'd want something reasonably clear for the display to be seen through, but im sure you could make it such that a simple small square of clear vinyl could be stuck on, using a waterproof glue

 

[guerney]

Prusa Mini is a good printer. I’ve designed a few things for it and printed very many models from free libraries. Just today I printed three things. Often the simplest models can be the most useful. Once you get a printer you will probably find many uses for it. I did.

Design software: FreeCAD. It outputs STL files.
Slicing software: Prusa Slicer. It outputs GCode.
Printer: takes GCode on a memory stick

search engine to find ready-to-print models

The Prusa Mini looks better than the Ender 3:

 

[RetiredAndRolling]

The soft plastic you mentioned is usually referred to as TPU. It comes in a range of stiffness. This stuff is best printed on a 3D printer where the extruder motor that conveys the filament is sitting right above the extruder nozzle. The extruder pulls the soft filament. This style of extruder is found on the more up market models like the Prusa i3.

On the Prusa Mini and other models the extruder sits at the side of the machine instead of riding around with the print head. This means the mechanism holding the print head can be lighter and at a lower cost. The extruder at the side of the machine pulls in the filament then pushes it up a Bowden tube to the hot nozzle. While this is fine for regular plastic filaments, pushing squidgy rubber up a Bowden tube does not give the best control. Many users say they can, with some tweaking, print flexible TPU on a Bowden style printer. It’s not optimal and I’ve not tried it.

In summary, to print soft rubber you’ll need to spend considerably more pennies on a printer.

An alternative approach is to buy a ready made squidgy cover for your bike controller. I have one for my Intuvia and it protects from rain and scratches. I can’t remember where I found it but maybe it was on eBay.

 

[guerney]

The soft plastic you mentioned is usually referred to as TPU. It comes in a range of stiffness. This stuff is best printed on a 3D printer where the extruder motor than conveys the filament is sitting right above the extruder nozzle. The extruder pulls the soft filament. This style of extruder is found on the more up market models like the Prusa i3.

On the Prusa Mini and other models the extruder sits at the side of the machine instead of riding around with the print head. This means the mechanism holding the print head can be lighter and at a lower cost. The extruder at the side of the machine pulls in the filament then pushes it up a Bowden tube to the hot nozzle. While this is fine for regular plastic filaments, pushing squidgy rubber up a Bowden tube does not give the best control. Many users say they can, with some tweaking, print flexible TPU on a Bowden style printer. It’s not optimal and I’ve not tried it.

In summary, to print soft rubber you’ll need to spend considerable more pennies on a printer.

An alternative approach is to buy a ready made squidgy cover for your bike controller. I have one for my Intuvia and it protects from rain and scratches. I can’t remember where I found it but maybe it was on eBay.

I like the idea of making my own 3D printed cycling shoes - they could be formed to fit deeper into specific pedal treads (and rotate a little)... enough to stop slippage while cycling over potholes, without the dangers of remaining attached to the bike in an accident - I could emblazon them with my completely original and trademarked "Mike" logo, and slosh symbol. Bigger pricetag 3D printer required?

 

[Erin0110]

I can't say that low-cost 3D printers are good quality, I've chosen a bit pricey printer. I've bought it recently on Amazon, after a lot of research, the Creality printer #4 from https://43dprint.org/best-3d-printers-under-2000/ came out on top for the best entree lv printer and quality for my needings. After using it for a while I must say I am very pleased with it. It all depends on what you want to do with it. You can compare printing speeds and layer height with a few printers this will affect the printing quality. I use mostly PALE because it is very strong and doesn't really have a smell to it. Printing with abs requires a more closed printer casing for the smell and to even keep the heat in. I have printed blasters, shoulder bells, and a lot of other parts fine. A whole helmet does not fit on the printer bed. You can indeed print it in multiple pieces but if you plan on making a lot of larger prints I recommend choosing a printer with a bigger volume.

 

[guerney]

I can't say that low-cost 3D printers are good quality, I've chosen a bit pricey printer. I've bought it recently on Amazon, after a lot of research, the Creality printer #4 from https://43dprint.org/best-3d-printers-under-2000/ came out on top for the best entree lv printer and quality for my needings. After using it for a while I must say I am very pleased with it. It all depends on what you want to do with it. You can compare printing speeds and layer height with a few printers this will affect the printing quality. I use mostly PALE because it is very strong and doesn't really have a smell to it. Printing with abs requires a more closed printer casing for the smell and to even keep the heat in. I have printed blasters, shoulder bells, and a lot of other parts fine. A whole helmet does not fit on the printer bed. You can indeed print it in multiple pieces but if you plan on making a lot of larger prints I recommend choosing a printer with a bigger volume.

That's very interesting! What would your recommendation be in terms of 3D printer selection, to print one of @WheezyRider 's fantastic reflector traffic boom arms? (Thread is linked below) That item alone is justification to buy one...

Traffic Boom - legal?

With the boom in traffic since the end of lock down, the number of close passes and punishment passes I'm getting is increasing again. This is a big problem on certain parts of my commute where there are painted dashed lines demarcating a "cycle lane" (what the Belgians call "murder strips")...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[Erin0110]

I suppose Dremel DigiLab 3D40 FLEX is the top-ranked, but if he is a beginner, there are cheaper alternatives

 

[guerney]

I suppose Dremel DigiLab 3D40 FLEX is the top-ranked, but if he is a beginner, there are cheaper alternatives

PC Mag give it a good review, but I never am sure whether good reviews have been secretly paid for in magazines - for instance, I've bought well reviewed (by a magazine) inkjets before and have been horribly disappointed, especially as it was clear upon use, that the reviewer hadn't actually touched the inkjet in question, and had simply rewritten and embellished some other review found elsewhere with incorrect details. But the good news I suppose is, that good 3D printers are getting cheaper all the time? Even Aldi sell them now - are they any good? Who knows?

Dremel DigiLab 3D40 Flex 3D Printer Review

Dremel's easy-to-use DigiLab 3D40 Flex 3D Printer has user-friendly software, good output quality, and a wide mix of connectivity options. It's a fine choice for classroom use.

uk.pcmag.com