The first two columns are for 36v (15.6A and 17.4A), the third column is 48v. 13A.Ok, thanks for letting me know. Maybe because I am logging in from outside the UK, but I am getting this:
View attachment 53076
But, even 30 A would not be enough for a 31 A controller.
I shrank it so could get voltage and current in the same screen shot:The first two columns are for 36v (15.6A and 17.4A), the third column is 48v. 13A.
Agreed about 30A not enough for 31A controller. I've come to the conclusion that a 22A controller is a waste of time with a 20A battery as I would have to restrict it to about 18A to safeguard the battery? I'm already running my 18A. controller at 16A.
Yes it is, but those are not supplied with the 350W kits. The one supplied is the 36v 13Ah continuous, which has a max rating of 20A.I shrank it so could get voltage and current in the same screen shot:
View attachment 53077
So 36V, 15.5 Ah and 30 A continuous, is that not what you see on the site when viewing from the UK?
What kind of battery do you have? I have often run the Yose Power Silverfish at up to 28A peak and 25 A continuous. The 20 A fuse does not even blow unless I go a bit over 30 A. I have had one BMS fail after a few years of use, but that was refusing to accept charge, not discharge.
I notice a difference running at 18 compared to 15, but unless you've got some really steep hills to get up, I would not bother going to 22. If you want more performance you start getting to the point where you are better off going to a 48V battery.No. the controller supplied is an 18A which I run at 16A. I was thinking about swapping it for a KT 22A, but with a 20Ah battery I thought that setting it any higher than about 18A would not be good for the battery - at least long term. The difference between 16 and 18A doesn't seem worthwhile.
What you are seeing is severe voltage sag and that which is typical from batteries that can't supply the current demand put on them, it is clear your SLA's aren't up to the job.Just to confirm your suspicions I enclose a couple of photos of road test short while ago. When I turn the throttle the power indicator goes from three bars to zero, when the motor cuts out I ease off the throttle and the power bars return to three.
Many thanks again![]()
All you need is a cell-pack to go in your battery box. take the batteries out and measure the space, then find one to fit.Thank you for your reply, unfortunately there is no mention of amps on the controller ( please see my reply #11 ). Having said this I did keep a copy of my receipt/invoice which does mention Rated Current 31A.
Hope this is helpful.
Thank you very much Nealh for your reply and the information you supply.What you are seeing is severe voltage sag and that which is typical from batteries that can't supply the current demand put on them, it is clear your SLA's aren't up to the job.
Many thanks saneagle for your latest reply, I will measure the battery box tomorrow and see what options are available although I have been looking at 36V downtube battery packs which appear to come with their own dedicated downtube bracket.All you need is a cell-pack to go in your battery box. take the batteries out and measure the space, then find one to fit.
Do you mean the metal bars on either side? That is a structural part of the frame.Sorry to bump this thread back up again but just wanted to say Thank you very much to all those Esteemed Pedelecers who have previously replied to my messages when I was asking for help and assistance.
Have purchased a Yose battery pack and fitted ( albeit temporarily for the purpose of ensuring everything was working satisfactorily ) to my Powabyke.......what a transformation!
Fitted the battery pack using the dedicated downbar bracket that came with battery pack....................now just pondering...........do I need the old side lead acid battery pack supports any longer?
Now off for another test ride![]()
Thank you for your reply WheezyRider, yep, I meant the metal bars on either side. They do make pedalling the bike slightly awkward giving a bow legged feel. The new battery pack is quite narrow in comparison to the old lead acid battery pack and there must over an inch to spare either side of the Yose battery pack and the metal bars.Do you mean the metal bars on either side? That is a structural part of the frame.
Good to see you have it up and running.
I would replace the bullet connectors with something like XT60 and make sure the wire is thick enough and tidied up with cable ties to the frame (but don't over tighten).
I put some old inner tube around the side bars, as my plywood box was not bolted down, so it helped it not to rub against the metal. If there is any wobble in your pack, you might consider doing that.
The bars aren't exactly truly structural , their inclusion being just for battery retension/placement. However they stil act as battery protection /retension and tbh doen't look out of place, they save the battery from being knocked/ kicked getting you leg over.
Many thanks Nealh for your two replies. I cant believe the difference the Lithium batteries have made. The Yose pack weighs in at 8lbs the old Powabyke lead acid battery pack weighed in at 1st 12lbs. Win Win all roundAs an side , very pleased you are happy with the new power supply from Yose. Makes one appreciate how much better lion is for delivering power over SLA.