30 mile each way commute, which bike is best?

[Omadorinlooer]

My commute to work is just under 30 miles, well about 27m to be more precise

It takes me between 1.5-2 hrs plus in my car because of busy traffic jams. I often saw bicycles shooting past me to th front of the traffic jams and I never catch up with them

So I cycled to work on my old racer and it's much fast then by car

But my legs are no good for the rest of the day, so I'm looking for the best electric bike

I want a road bike, never go off road with it

Maximum v and amp capacity and maybe looking to get it derestricted so it can do between 20-25 mph, But keep a low profile most of the time sticking to 15.5mph max

 

[Deno]

I use a Cube eMTB with a bosch crank drive and 500wh battery to travel 17mls each way to work. Its been delimited so I run at ~40kph and complete the trip in ~45min. Problem is that I pretty much drain the battery doing this as I am in turbo (top assistance level). In addition there is more driveline maintenance on a crankdrive bike than with a hub motor. Its useful to have a tough bike for this distance of commute and the Cube eMTB fits that bill imo, its been stunningly reliable also. However, with the benefit of hindsight I think that I would rather a lower profile / lighter frame for greater efficiency.

Others have had good experiences with the Oxygen Scross MTB. It has a hub motor so the maintenance should be less. Also the speed limiter can be removed with a code rather than by buying a delimiter dongle as per the Bosch system. There is a long term review in the reviews section.

 

[georgehenry]

Valid point about drive train maintenance on a hub drive. I have an old 2011 Oxygen Emate City hub drive that I still use to get me to work on occassions (10 miles) and a hub drive is very relaxing to ride. At the cost of an Oxygen you could even budget to replace it every three to four years so that your always on a newish bike. Also crank drive bikes will wear out their main bearing maybe quicker than a hub drive needs attention.

However, however, a de restricted Giant Road E+2 or E+1 could be a lot of fun. You have to generally work a bit harder to get the performance out of a crank drive but this is actually fun and your fitness will benefit, though you will always be able to use a higher assistance level if you need it or are tired. Hopefully you can charge the battery back up at work as this would reduce range anxiety and be better for the battery.

 

[Woosh]

Maximum v and amp capacity and maybe looking to get it derestricted so it can do between 20-25 mph,

the word 'derestricted' will automatically make any trader on this forum run a mile from offering you their bikes because it is simply not supported by any of them, me included.
Your best route is a conversion of a good bike, preferably with a rear geared hub motor like my XF08C kit or a BBS01B with a 17AH battery. You should have enough battery to do your 55 miles on one charge, the maximum range depends of course how much you pedal and how fast you go. If you keep to the speed limit and low assist, 17AH should be enough for 70 miles.
If you go for the crank drive BBS01B, then go for a donor bike with hub gear.
There is one point worth noting about maintenance: even the motors need maintenance. Typically, the ball bearings need replacing every 4,000 miles, you will have to pay for the work.

 

[Deno]

However, however, a de restricted Giant Road E+2 or E+1 could be a lot of fun. You have to generally work a bit harder to get the performance out of a crank drive but this is actually fun and your fitness will benefit, though you will always be able to use a higher assistance level if you need it or are tired. Hopefully you can charge the battery back up at work as this would reduce range anxiety and be better for the battery.

Don't know about 54mls a day, 5 days a week on a roadbike. I did it for a while and shoulder pain stopped me. I'd be going for something with more relaxed geometry and thicker tyres. Not aware of any bike that fits that bill however.

OP, in addition you will possibly need to upgrade any potential bike to make it more reliable and comfortable. Puncture resistant tyres (Schwalbe marathons), comfortable saddle (Brooks B17), mudguard's and panniers. You'll be in the saddle for 3+hrs a day at that distance so comfort will be key.

 

[RobF]

There is not enough torque from a legal crank drive ebike to wear the drivetrain any faster than a fit cyclist would.

That doesn't mean the OP should get one, but it is nonsense to say crank drives eat drivetrains.

If drivetrain wear is a concern, get a hub geared bike.

The chain is never derailed, always runs in perfect alignment, and the higher line keep it out of some of the grit.

That might point towards a crank drive, or maybe a front hub motor.

Biggest problem here is range, whatever the bike.

The OP wants some speed, that is not going to happen over 54 miles from a single battery, even a 17ah one.

So it's either charge at work and home, or have a spare battery.

 

[Omadorinlooer]

I use a Cube eMTB with a bosch crank drive and 500wh battery to travel 17mls each way to work. Its been delimited so I run at ~40kph and complete the trip in ~45min. Problem is that I pretty much drain the battery doing this as I am in turbo (top assistance level). In addition there is more driveline maintenance on a crankdrive bike than with a hub motor. Its useful to have a tough bike for this distance of commute and the Cube eMTB fits that bill imo, its been stunningly reliable also. However, with the benefit of hindsight I think that I would rather a lower profile / lighter frame for greater efficiency.

Others have had good experiences with the Oxygen Scross MTB. It has a hub motor so the maintenance should be less. Also the speed limiter can be removed with a code rather than by buying a delimiter dongle as per the Bosch system. There is a long term review in the reviews section.

Thanks so much I love the look of the oxygen Scross MTB.

Is it easy enough to get the code for the speed limiter?

I'm looking for the best place to buy a new one, I want somewhere with excellent customer service and after sales service

 

[Omadorinlooer]

There is not enough torque from a legal crank drive ebike to wear the drivetrain any faster than a fit cyclist would.

That doesn't mean the OP should get one, but it is nonsense to say crank drives eat drivetrains.

If drivetrain wear is a concern, get a hub geared bike.

The chain is never derailed, always runs in perfect alignment, and the higher line keep it out of some of the grit.

That might point towards a crank drive, or maybe a front hub motor.

Biggest problem here is range, whatever the bike.

The OP wants some speed, that is not going to happen over 54 miles from a single battery, even a 17ah one.

So it's either charge at work and home, or have a spare battery.

It's 27 miles one way, then I can charge the batt all day before coming home and charge I again.

I know his will wear the battery down and shorten it's life, but I'd be happy to save taking my car to work and the cost of new battery every now and then is still cheaper than driving everyday

 

[Omadorinlooer]

So I'm very keen on the
Oxygen S-CROSS MTB Electric Mountain Bike
13Ah - 40-50 mile range*

the word 'derestricted' will automatically make any trader on this forum run a mile from offering you their bikes because it is simply not supported by any of them, me included.
Your best route is a conversion of a good bike, preferably with a rear geared hub motor like my XF08C kit or a BBS01B with a 17AH battery. You should have enough battery to do your 55 miles on one charge, the maximum range depends of course how much you pedal and how fast you go. If you keep to the speed limit and low assist, 17AH should be enough for 70 miles.
If you go for the crank drive BBS01B, then go for a donor bike with hub gear.
There is one point worth noting about maintenance: even the motors need maintenance. Typically, the ball bearings need replacing every 4,000 miles, you will have to pay for the work.

I hear what you are saying about dealers not liking derestricted and how it may void the warranty.

But I'm only talking about having a little extra speed, I think the cut out at 15.5 mph is ridiculous and to hve it at around 20-25 mph would really suit me, even though most of the time I would be around 15-20mph.

Are there any dealers who can accommodate a customer like me?

 

[Artstu]

This seems to happen a lot. It is puzzling to me why people think a MTB is a good choice for a road commute of that distance. That requires a hybrid as a minimum.

 

[Deno]

Thanks so much I love the look of the oxygen Scross MTB.

Is it easy enough to get the code for the speed limiter?

I'm looking for the best place to buy a new one, I want somewhere with excellent customer service and after sales service

I have never seen one but I followed this thread:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/oxygen-scross-mtb-ongoing-review.28142/

I believe that they're a popular bike on here.

 

[Deno]

This seems to happen a lot. It is puzzling to me why people think a MTB is a good choice for a road commute of that distance. That requires a hybrid as a minimum.

Totally agree on this, the effort required to push a 29" MTB at 40+kph is huge. A more efficient bike with less drag / weight and skinnier (but not too skinny) tyres would be ideal, that way you could back off the assistance, maintain the same speed and benefit from increased range.

 

[anotherkiwi]

For that distance you want a speed pedelec a.k.a. moped!

I would be looking at a Stromer ST1, ST2 or similar - hub motor, fully kitted for commuting (tyres, lights) and quality build.

 

[Artstu]

For that distance you want a speed pedelec a.k.a. moped!

I would be looking at a Stromer ST1, ST2 or similar - hub motor, fully kitted for commuting (tyres, lights) and quality build.

Think I'd rather have one of these to be honest

 

[anotherkiwi]

Where are the pedals?

I think the Stromers are the 21st century equivalent of a solid 50 c.c. 4 stroke. Unfortunately they have a Swiss price tag, not a Japanese made in Viet Nam one...

 

[Artstu]

Where are the pedals?

I think the Stromers are the 21st century equivalent of a solid 50 c.c. 4 stroke. Unfortunately they have a Swiss price tag, not a Japanese made in Viet Nam one...

Yes I like the concept of a very light battery powered bike with a 50 mph ish top speed, one without pedals even, but it's a class of vehicle that may never happen.

 

[Omadorinlooer]

For that distance you want a speed pedelec a.k.a. moped!

I would be looking at a Stromer ST1, ST2 or similar - hub motor, fully kitted for commuting (tyres, lights) and quality build.

Yes that mkes more sense for what I want, it’s better for on road, I will never be off road.

Is the stormer able to be bought as uk road legal?

I love the look of the st2 with

• Long range 983wh Battery option

But this would require dvla registration and insurance would it not?

 

[RobF]

The Stromer is a lot of money for what it is - a beefy motor hub bike.

It does come with an enormous battery, but I suspect you will still struggle to get a round trip at speed from it.

As mentioned, it's daft to buy an Oxygen MTB then set about changing it to a hybrid, which is what you will inevitably do.

The S Cross CB is commutable out of the box, although if you get into year-round commuting you will probably want better lights and deeper mudguards.

Spending a bit more money would get you a hub geared crank drive bike from the likes of Cube.

You will appreciate the lower maintenance drivetrain, but will have to 'dongle' the bike to remove the 15.5mph cut off.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Yes that mkes more sense for what I want, it’s better for on road, I will never be off road.

Is the stormer able to be bought as uk road legal?

I love the look of the st2 with

• Long range 983wh Battery option

But this would require dvla registration and insurance would it not?

Yep, that is correct it is a moped.

 

[Artstu]

Vortecks builds some fast bikes if that takes your fancy.