26 inch front wheels

[laphroiag2005]

Hi I'm looking to buy a 26inch electric front wheel for our kickbike cross max 20v scooter. It currently as v brakes. I've looked at the 48v Voilmart 1000 and the 48v Bafang 500w. Are these wheels compatible with v brakes and are they waterproof and reliable. Are they easy to fit. What sort of speed / distance will they give me before they need recharging. Cheers all help and information gratefully received

 

[StuartsProjects]

Are there any pedals ?

 

[laphroiag2005]

No there's no pedals it's a scooter 26inch front wheel and 20inch back wheel

 

[StuartsProjects]

This is a 'Pedelecs' forum, cycles with pedals.

 

[AndyBike]

This is a 'Pedelecs' forum, cycles with pedals.

No need to be so 'elitist', many of the ebikes here the members are clued up on motors in general, especially ones with throttles which dont need pedals.

So I think you're talking poo mate.

 

[scbk]

My brother has one of those Kickbikes, (along with various bicycles) to be honest I don't see the point in the thing!

 

[Sturmey]

Hi. Just my opinion but I think you need a conversion kit that works with a throttle. You may be better off with a lighter ( and more legal in some places) 250w kit as there not be enough clearance for bigger motors (you need to check this) and extra torque arms especially if forks are alloy. (also check this). The front wheel needs to be correctly fitted.
As you have no pedals, I would assume a battery consumption of up to 16-20Wh per mile on level ground and reliable maximum hill climb of 3 to 5%, all depending on riders weight,speed etc. So for example, with a small 9Ah battery, your range could be as low as 16 to 20 miles depending. (rough estimate)
Designed maximum speed would be about 25 km/hr but you often get a little more.
What you would have then is not legally an ebike or pedelec but a (powered) personal transporter.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_transporter

PS. There is one company that supports and advertises on this website that might be a suitable (throttle only) kit. I fitted one a few years ago and it had a 'soft start' that reduces the 'kick' or pressure on the forks. There are other suppliers.

Buy a Cyclotricity eKit 250W with 36V/9Ah Frame Fit Battery from E-Bikes Direct

Cyclotricity electric bike conversion kit with bottle battery, fast free delivery, instructions on bike suitability.

www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk

 

[laphroiag2005]

This is a 'Pedelecs' forum, cycles with pedals.

This particular forum focuses on conversion kits discussion therefore I've asked a question on 2 conversion kits regardless of what the kit is going onto. It's irrelevant that it is going onto a scooter

 

[laphroiag2005]

My brother has one of those Kickbikes, (along with various bicycles) to be honest I don't see the point in the thing!

Everyone to there own taste my friend certain people enjoy parachuting out of planes but I prefer to keep my feet firmly on the ground

 

[laphroiag2005]

Hi. Just my opinion but I think you need a conversion kit that works with a throttle. You may be better off with a lighter ( and more legal in some places) 250w kit as there not be enough clearance for bigger motors (you need to check this) and extra torque arms especially if forks are alloy. (also check this). The front wheel needs to be correctly fitted.
As you have no pedals, I would assume a battery consumption of up to 16-20Wh per mile on level ground and reliable maximum hill climb of 3 to 5%, all depending on riders weight,speed etc. So for example, with a small 9Ah battery, your range could be as low as 16 to 20 miles depending. (rough estimate)
Designed maximum speed would be about 25 km/hr but you often get a little more.
What you would have then is not legally an ebike or pedelec but a (powered) personal transporter.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Personal_transporter

PS. There is one company that supports and advertises on this website that might be a suitable (throttle only) kit. I fitted one a few years ago and it had a 'soft start' that reduces the 'kick' or pressure on the forks. There are other suppliers.

Buy a Cyclotricity eKit 250W with 36V/9Ah Frame Fit Battery from E-Bikes Direct

Cyclotricity electric bike conversion kit with bottle battery, fast free delivery, instructions on bike suitability.

www.e-bikesdirect.co.uk

Thank you for good advice perhaps it may be better to fit a 20inch wheel to the back to save the stress on the forks. I'll have to check the rear frame size to see if it will accommodate a front wheel as there are no gears.
Will the wheel work if the pas and brake sensores are not there. Not sure if the brake sensors are needed to cut the power out I thought you may just be able to release the throttle same as you would on a motorcycle.
The scooter is being motorised as I'm training our husky to pull and thought the motorised wheel will come in handy when he's not pulling or even needs a bit of an hand on some inclines. Hopefully the wheel would cope with being used when pulling and it is turned off or powered down.

 

[Sturmey]

I am taking a closer look at your photo. Your rear wheel setup looks like a front wheel (100mm fork spacing etc), but you need to take off the wheel to get a close look. The conventional/usual electric hub axle is 10 X 12mm but you need a few extra mm for the tabbed anti rotation washers to fit into dropout.i.e 10 X 15-16 mm. Sometimes people file the dropout to achieve this.
In this case then, you could fit a 20 inch front hub motor kit into the rear dropouts if they are strong enough. Incidentally, smaller electric wheels often perform better on hills etc .
The brake cutout that normally come with kits are just a matter of changing the brake levers in your case if you want to.
Be sure that you know the difference between a direct drive hub motor and the lighter (internally) geared hub motor that is often more suitable/recommended in this part of the world.

 

[laphroiag2005]

I am taking a closer look at your photo. Your rear wheel setup looks like a front wheel (100mm fork spacing etc), but you need to take off the wheel to get a close look. The conventional/usual electric hub axle is 10 X 12mm but you need a few extra mm for the tabbed anti rotation washers to fit into dropout.i.e 10 X 15-16 mm. Sometimes people file the dropout to achieve this.
In this case then, you could fit a 20 inch front hub motor kit into the rear dropouts if they are strong enough. Incidentally, smaller electric wheels often perform better on hills etc .
The brake cutout that normally come with kits are just a matter of changing the brake levers in your case if you want to.
Be sure that you know the difference between a direct drive hub motor and the lighter (internally) geared hub motor that is often more suitable/recommended in this part of the world.

I've measured the distance between the frame at the back but it is to small the drop out is plenty big enough. I also measured the distance of the front fork and it was 100mm so plenty and the drop outs are okay as well.

I can't understand why there are 2 dropouts in the rear frame either.

I have another scooter woth disc brakes so I'll measure the rear fram on that one.

 

[Sturmey]

Your rear dropouts are 75mm/3 inches apart but we need about 100mm/4 inches for most front motor kits, so fitting a front hub to the rear doesn't look like a good idea. Is your frame steel or alloy (aluminum)?
It should be easy enough to get a 26 inch kit for the front as most kits have the option for throttle. But first take off front wheel and take photos of forks and dropouts. I think you will need torque arms to stop axle spinning in dropouts and may have to file some washers eccentric to make the axle fit snug.