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Cant deny full suspension becomes more attractive on an ebike with the extra time spent in the saddle. And a suspension seat post is high on my wish list as a consequence. While i may have been a tad hyperbolic in presenting the downsides of some branded machines, the general intent was just to...

While this years Giant/(insert established bike brand here) bike may not have the same battery format as next years model, (extra plastic knob/void, or incompatible s/w version) .. With many branded bikes folk have a year or two trouble free cycling but when a problem occurs, and enquiries are...

might as well have a go.. IM not an engineer/electrician etc.. and therfore have done everything wrong at least once.. Many early self inspired projects (pre web) did to my shame involve twisted wire connections in many dc battery circuits, including my 1st central bike light switch attempt...

Hi my take 1)a 17a controller should provide ample improvements in power output over the original 15a? job. a 22a controller would probably require you to limit use to pas levels 1-4, leaving 5 for the extra boost when needed only as to not overheat the motor? But if you have steep climbs...

If converting a suitable bike is not an option Woosh https://wooshbikes.co.uk/ and Whisper have a rep in here for selling quality bikes with longevity in mind so a replacement part or battery enquiry wont be considered a new bike sale lead a year or three later. I seem to recall a few folk...

FYI Im circa 90kg and not athletic in my 60's my cycle back from the city is up'slope' 3 routes, Route 1 slope all the way and a breeze on the ebike at top speed busy roads and traffic allowing. route #2 2 x 'hills' both i could always tackle but out of the seat leaning the bike for...

Rule of thumb - Bolt on = good, Built in = Bad. the stylish built in bikes will require equally stylish and unique parts and bits when replacements are needed due to knocks and bumps and life in general.. Should the bike last long enough to exhaust a battery finding a specific shape battery...

Hope so, And give AI a lil while and the 1 word 5star reviews will be replaced with increasingly authentic reading fakes too..

That looks like a standard 9 pin motor connector that wont need any cutting/soldering @Lonebikee you shouldnt need to browse more than a handful of online controller ads to find a good pic of a standard motor socket to match your plug ;) KT (Ketung?) brand controllers and compatible KT-lcd-xx...

Dumb bot isn't iterating through id's correctly..

As long as the motor has a standard 3 or 9 pin connector, a generic control system will be a fairly straightforward refit KT brand controllers and displays are often recommended as an upgrade for the configurability and display options, a 15a or 17a sinewave controller should suit, but even if...

Yose-power, and Greenlance.co.uk supplied my batteries.. pspower based in germany have been highlighted for offering good deals recently too. a little homework regarding how battery voltages and capacities are added when connected in series and in parallel should arm you well for the usual...

one step forward.. 1 back..

Hope your right, and your best positioned to judge, But with ebike batteries accurate voltage measurement is a crucial and basic test. A single volt difference/discrepancy when fully charged can indicate a severe battery issue, and significantly fewer volts are needed to create a silver foil...

hi spike,, took me a sec to catch on to the "spark test", get a multimeter its a tenner or less and an accurate voltage reading is a required first test for any fault finding. then with a meter you can test if the display has any voltage....

Cant provide any recommendations as my issue didnt warrant that (yet), but having read the odd post where folk have bought 'blind' and have been confused by sense wire orientation/count suggest that a pre buy crack of the battery and count /check of the current system and connections so a like...

If happy to use a soldering iron, and in possession of a calm temperament, a bms exchange should be a manageable job to undertake yourself. As long as you buy wisely and ensure that you have ample and good documentation for the bms you buy ( chase down and save/print - digest links in advance...

If i understand correctly and your original battery has a 'smart' or proprietary bms fitted with coms to the original control system. then you would need to replace this with a more generic bms in order to use without any coms blocks in the way.

fyi Youtube has decided to show me car laser light vids recently.. ebay has a diy 3a module for £70 though you need an additional laser diode driver pcb to get it going..

A suspension seat post could alleviate most bumps on city roads fitted to a less complex to accommodate bike design?