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I saw that other people who had installed the kit had left that mounting plate off, so I figured that I could also get away with it.

It looks like when the motor has been pushing up against the downtube, the raised bolt hole part which attaches the lockring plate has been making contact first, rather than evenly spreading the load across the downtube, which has created a lever point and thus eventually causing it to crack.

That thread was also made by me, ironically only a few days after I'd made this one!

Will it work if I get the crack welded up? Or will something inside be damaged because of this?

I bought it from pswpower less than 2 months ago.... I shall contact them and see what they say.

No I didn't fit the rear fixing block mount unfortunately, definitely will be fitting it if I get a new one though.

So I went out for a ride on my TSDZ2 converted bike today, and immediately it was making a terrible noise, so had a closer look and noticed this large crack right across the motor: Is this salvageable at all? Or do I need to bite the bullet and buy a new one?

Thanks, I ended up just buying a new pair from Halfords, and I also go some blue loctite for them so hopefully I won't have any more falling cranks.

Bump - this is the fixing block I'm referring too incase anyone is not sure:

Whilst out riding my TSDZ2 converted bike, the left hand crank fell off and I couldn't find the bolt....so I bought some Shimano Steps E6000 cranks but they did not come with any bolts....so can I just use one of the crank bolts that were originally on the bike before the conversion, as they...

I've fitted the TSDZ2 kit to my bike, but had to leave out the fixing block due to the design of the bike. So that has caused the motor to work it's way higher up the downtube, rather than under the bottom bracket. Is there any reason I shouldn't have it like this? As I prefer it that way, as...