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That's exactly what I suspect. I'm getting nothing from the hall sensors. So I suspect that the melted insulation that I repaired isnt the only damage. Maybe melted inside the axle. Hence my question about rewiring.

Yeah, I hear what you're saying, but every thing is new now contoller, display, pas sensor... everything apart from the hub. I've tested the hall sensor wires from the plug end and they are showing up as faulty, and it's not the plug or terminals cause that's new too.

So, it's surely got to be a fault with the hall sensor wires inside the hub. Is it worth attempting to rewire it with a new cable?

Should I be getting a direct short between all three of the phase wires?

I tried that before. It made no difference

I've just checked. There are no shorts between hall sensor and phase wires, but I do have continuity between all three phase wires.

I've rested the mosfets, they're fine. It's still showing error 03 exactly as before, so I'm sure there is more damage to those hall sensor wires, probably inside the hub where I couldn't see. Everything except the hub moter is brand new I've rested the mosfets, they're fine. It's still...

Sadly when all put together it's exactly the same. I think I've got to the point where it's like I'm chasing my tail. I'm starting to think that a new hub is the way forward. Any recommendations on which to get, decent makes etc? Would it make sense to upgrade to a 350W? Links to good / trusted...

I've done it as a temporary measure to test it. If it all works I'll be carefully removing it and replacing with instant gasket. It s ust that I dont have any and cant get any until Monday. I've not got a milk bottle either! ;):D

In case anybody's wondering I used the chain wrench to hold the motor open against the magnetic force. I was carefull to not clamp it very tight preventing any damage.

Its replaced. I've managed to push the new wires down and hot glued them. Hopefully that'll be ok as a temporary fix as I dont have any instant gasket until Monday

He he, I'm at this stage now. One of the terminals on the hall sensor came away (just like you said). I've dug out the old hall sensor and luckily I'd prepared for this happening and bought some replacements. Here we go!!!!! That's a brilliant tip about the milk bottle by the way!

Mornin! I've split the motor and I think I've spotted the issue. Some of the wires connecting the hall sensors have been stripped of their insulation. Could it have been caused by rubbing on the inside of the hub? I'm thinking of sleeping with some very small diameter heat shrink? I'm hoping...

Thanks, that's exactly what I intend to do. Are the hall sensors most likely to be glued in place?

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm sure everything is ok at the controller end of the cable, so I'll open up the motor and have a look. It would be nice to think that they need cleaning. Whereabouts would it be likely to need a clean? On a couple of tries the wheel did seem like it tried to turn...

You may remember my previous posts with the suspected pedal assist sensor and control unit. Well, we have an update and I think, A : I've learned a lot (thanks to you guys, and B: I see light at the end of the tunnel. It's still a mystery what happened to this bike before I had it, but it seems...

Thanks for the reply. I can easily get it within 10mm if I fit it on the front forks. The cable is long enough. I may have to do that.

Could anybody advise please. I've got a speed sensor to fit but I'm wondering what sort of distance will it read between the magnet and sensor. Wherever I fit it the gap is about 25mm +

Great stuff. I've just started getting delivery of my bits, so hopefully I'll have a positive result too, thanks to the help from the guys on here.

I bought this nifty little pair of led lights to replace the nasty little plastic thing that my bike came with. They're rated at 12v - 36v. I bought a pair but you can buy just a single unit. Came pretty quick from somewhere abroad. Nice solid construction, black alloy with a handlebar clamp...