Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

I regularly do around 17.5mph on flat. I have a downhill that when there is a good tail wind I've managed 26mph. My bike is geared with a larger front crank as the original one felt too slow. I also got rid of the knobbly tyres and put on Marathon pluses. The electric power gets me up said...

Even that rather professional looking attempt has the same spelling mistake!

I got some of these from ebay a while back. They seem to stay on and have done some miles both on a hub motor and on the frame of a converted Specialised bike with a crank motor. I recognise there is an element of fraud in sticking an ebay label on your bike, but in my case I know for...

Thanks for take time to reply , a wouldn’t go mid drive as if me chain snaps a be left Stranded 4 clock in the morning pushing me Bike back 10 miles , to risky that , think going go the route yose power 250w rear hub then if it’s not powerful enough upgrade to yose power controller as that...

When you convert a normal bike to an electric one, you have desired performance characteristics and aesthetic characteristics. The problem is that the various characteristics conflict with each other: range vs weight; appearance vs utility; power vs stealth; speed vs legal requirements...

250w is the rated power, the actual max output power from a hub motor with a 36v 15 a controller with a full battery will be closer to 500W (42v *15amp * 80?% efficiency)

I have purchased two of the Yosepower front hub kits, one for my trike and one for bike. They both have 250w 36v motors with a standard set 15mph limit Which can be tweaked. The only thing that makes it illegal is the throttle takes you to 15mph but Saneagle has kindly supplied me a way of of...

yeah read tricky for expensive.. could be expensive in time spent searching.. Most generic replacement ebike controllers employ a cadence sensor input, so finding a compatible controller with an existing torque sensor may be problematic, Im not sure all torque sensors work the same or if...

Hub-motors are generally more reliable than crank ones, and they can bale you out if you get any problem with your drive train. It's difficult to gauge how much power you need, but I'd go with 48v to get more power options. You can divide motor controllers into two groups: speed control, where...

The Orange she got has Bosch crank drive. I think it was around 25kg with battery and all fittings. Anyway, not suggesting it for OP. p.s. I did try to suggest the Santana3 to the friend, I forget why she decided against it; probably that she really wanted hub gears (Danish and brought up that...

For towing a trailer, a bike with small wheels would be better because a hub-motor gets more torque with them and the motor runs faster and more efficiently. With big wheels, it would probably run too slowly which would overheat it. A bike with big wheels would need a crank-motor, but nearly...

The default one piece yose-power pas sensor requires a circular < 17mm diameter crank, it might fit on a 17mm hex?? the alternative option for fitting on the right hand side in 2 pieces (magnet disk and sensor) is less demanding on crank dimensions/shape and works in more cases at no extra cost...

Kat any EAPC you see that utilises a middle motor/crank motor will be a Torque sensing type irrelevant of brand . For your needs as with the Woosh Crusa one will be looking for an EAPC with a hub motor.

That Sutton dude might have copied a link while logged into the CMS of his news site? "support ratio of 1:4 and" Totally unacceptable! Such low levsl of assistance would make ebiking less inclusive for the elderly, the infirm, and those who need to arrive at work sweat free. "support ratio...

It's the speed more than anything. Crank-drive works better at low speed. If your modal speed is going to be above or about 12 mph, a hub-motor is better. The Yose ones are optimised for 15 mph. You can get slower hub-motors optimised for low speed from the Chinese resellers, but I've never...

yeab, 2008 did came the a lot of conversion kit companys and a few of them sold as "midmotor" the cyclone-kit including me but that motor was not reliable and noicy and if I remmember correct it had only two senor for the hall. As a mechanic I did saw the potential of those upcoming...

That's a neat installation. Yes, I did mine in 2011, before crank drive kits were available. I didn't have access to any machine shop, so I did mine out of readily available bits of bike. I didn't know that there were free-wheeling cranks then. It worked quite well, and it had the advantage of...

Pretty sure my kit included a 13ah battery but its been on the bike coming up 2 trouble free years - had an initial hic-cup with the pas sensor sorted with an email to support and a brief exchange - not the best support but not the worst either. The pas/speed control was a bit of a hurdle to...

If a motor can only handle 200w before it overheats, it'll fail the 250w test. Any motor that can handle 250w without overheating will pass. It's pretty simple really. The test involves a trial run to determine the RPM at which the motor has maximum efficiency (least heat), then the actual...

I have followed lots of forum advice in general and @saneagle 's advice in particular ! I am a similar weight and have a 48v rear hub bike and a 48v mid drive bike - either would be excellent. I slightly prefer the hub drive for road use as the motor power isn't going through the chain line and...