Search results for query: hub motor vs crank

Haibike sDuro HardSeven SL 2015 Yamaha 10 year Update. Taken today with the new transmission and front wheel in evidence. View from the other side Transmission I said in my 9 year update which I posted on March the 29th 2024 that," I fitted a new transmission on the 17th of March 2023...

I had knee ligament problems last year. Couldn't cycle and had to go up the stairs one step at a time. NHS rest but use advice followed but did not work. Read about zero drop aka barefoot footwear. Tried a pair and the problem went away instantly. Now have zero drop walking boots, slippers...

There was already a promising looking consultation done which got shot down however I'd say it's doomerism to just not try again and again, and again. No point in giving up if you fall at the first and while my opinion on consultations is pretty bleak, the more people that get behind something...

There are two signals to the controller that go down separate wires. One has a pulsing signal for how fast you're pedalling, which is given by the light going through the castellations. The other is a 5v analogue signal given by measuring the length of the pulses, which decrease as you pedal...

Let me try for you. I believe that you have a misunderstanding about the law. The law says that a motor must be "RATED" at no more than 250w. There is effectively no rule for how the rating should be done, so a manufacturer can rate any high powered motor at 250w if they want. Many...

ripped it all apart again and found a slight uneven backplate where its been crunched - cleaned up and oiled it instead - seems better at least - agree though, its a shocking design for the price! Finally back together - and looks like it works - in other words its not giving errors and reads...

You need to take apart completely the chainwheel arrangement and clean it all out. There's a thin large diameter seal between the fixed and moving parts, which gets destroyed if you use it in bad conditions. I'm pretty sure that it would be impossible to get a replacement. Any crud in there will...

So a further update! bought one of the cheap testers of Amazon and one of the hall sensors was failing; stripped motor apart again, and it had come loose from the board - but even after reconnecting, it was faulty (not reacting to magnet and just staying on). Luckily the other wheel we bought...

Anyone can move rotate or jerk the crank arm by 1 degree, even uphill, and with max current and programmed very long motor run-on, it'd of course be ever easier to keep pedalling. For the toque sensored dudes, assistance at max current could start with a bumblebee fart, hypersensitivity...

You didn't invent it and you can't copyright it because it's already been invented and produced by Kunteng for their controllers. You can find it on Mirider bikes and others, including my own.

Rider effort is required to turn the pedal a small angle to activate assist (throttle), so why wouldn't the newly invented Guerney Pedalling Accelerotorator™ in post #70 be legal? All existing pedal assist systems are flawed goddammit! Leaves people gasping for throttles. The angle of crank...

I wouldn't have it work on the pedals for some of the reasons above. Though if I were building such a system, best way I could see would be through hall effect sensors and a magnet with it's pole flipped for specific pedal angles. Have that run to a microcontroller that sends a voltage to the...

Hi All, I have the following bike with an integrated controller and battery. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Vitesse-Signal-Lightweight-Electric-VIT0011/dp/B09WJ9MT68 My display recently stopped working so I ordered another one (exactly the same KT series that I previously had, see photo) so it would...

Thanks for the responses everyone. My main concern was that 250W wasn't going to be enough without some extreme gearing, but it sounds like it won't be a problem (for a mid-drive or a hub motor), so that's good. The "48% gradient" is just the maximum gradient of that route from bike-roll.net...

I hate to have to say this, but just about everything above is wrong. Let's take the bike first. It would be towards the bottom of my list for a crank-drive conversion. 1. It has rim brakes, which are never good for an ebike unless you're very light. 75 kg is about on the limit, but those...

I was the same until recently in that the crank bolts on my TSDZ2 required 40nm to be tight enough to stop them loosening and my guessing as to 'tight enough' was in fact quite a bit lower than that required. And I'm using a front hub motor on carbon forks and I needed to ensure 30nm tightness...

Hub-motors can give a lot more power than a crank-drive. Look at the size of the actual motor (coils, magnets, rotor and stator). They're about two or three times the size of those on a crank-motor. The normal sized ones can handle 1000w from the battery easily. My one is the same size as a Lime...

The photo you posted shows a front hub-motor. I've never seen one with a crank-motor. Some have a rear motor, but they're not very common.

Post a photo of your LCD control panel and tell us what markings are on the back. Also, does yours have the hub-motor or crank-motor?

Yep, as @saneagle mentioned, the display showing the motor getting 500 watts (or more) is perfectly normal for a legal e-bike - it's the manufacturer's motor continuous rated power that counts. Again most legal e-bikes have settings that limit the maximum speed to 25 km/h, as long as this is...