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That's a good idea but I only have a 13-23t cassette on and want to keep it rideable if not running the motor. Ditching it would make my lowest gear 36x23t which would make it tough up steep hills with no motor on. I'd rather not use a PAS than do that.

I managed to shave a few millimeters off the plastic box for the sensor. This gets the gap from the edge of the sensor to the edge of the BB cup to 4.1mm. I'm still not convinced this is enough, because I think the magnet disc on my chainset (when I tried it) was overlapping about half way...

This is where the sensor ends up, with mock up 2mm plastic under it. When a chainset is fitted, the magnet disc (on a 24t inner chainring) overlaps about 3/4 of the way over the notched part of the BB cup - leaving practically no space there for anything to fit between. The magnet disc...

It's so limited on space down there. I need some sort of bare circuit board PAS that's as flat as possible, like 1mm or something. The circuit board I have now has a sensor chip poking out 3mm + 1mm circuit board +1mm carbon fiber + wires, it's taking up 6.5mm when I have probably 1mm or 2mm to...

It could be glued on but what happens when the glue cracks? I keep trying to find some way to cable tie it, but the tubing tapers around there.

After pushing my crankset on to check this, there's no way it's going to work. Has anyone ever fitted a pedal assist sensor to a PF30 (press fit) bottom bracket? Do such things exist? The only ones I have seen are for square taper, or Hollowtech 2. I am just about ready to give up with it...

The magnet disc is solved already and cable tied to a 24t inner chainring. I'm using the kit right now, just on a different bike. Cheers RogerA, that inspired me on how to solve it :) maybe... Like this, with the sheet of 11cm x 4cm corrugated plastic being 1mm stainless steel, with the...

No Nealh, I have already got one of those, as explained in the original post when I said "This frame has a Praxis Works Shimano based bottom bracket". The PAS sensor metal ring has an internal diameter that's too small to fit the Praxis Works BB cup (that's 42mm when the PAS is only 35mm)...

I hit a dead end planning to fit my Hollowtech 2 PAS sensor to a carbon MTB frame that has a PF30 bottom bracket shell. This frame has a Praxis Works Shimano based bottom bracket and while that Praxis thing works really well under normal usage, it is too wide for the PAS sensor ring to fit...

I am sure my drive side axle nut didn't loosen but rather, the relatively thin M12 washer bent (went concave) giving the same end result, a tiny increase in the space between the nut and dropout. It wasn't fully loose but was far too easy to undo with my spanner. The non-drive side stayed tight...

First one is made, took about 6 hours of sawing and filing lol It's 5mm thick. An identical one needs making for the other dropout. This wouldn't stop the wheel falling out and it's not anchored to anything, but it should stop the (45Nm) motor axle being able to twist, especially if there's...

How are people like this getting away with it, I can't see a torque arm on this at all and as far as I can tell, that's a carbon swingarm, on a China frame, with 52V/350W motor. He says he's done 15,000Km on it up to now...

Cheers Nealh. I just noticed the dropouts aren't metal, they only have a thin sheet over the carbon, presumably to stop QR skewers chewing away at it. I can use 2 stubby little torque arms the way shown in the first image, because the drive side dropout is the same shape, so I could just use...

I have a carbon frame with carbon dropouts. There's a recess close to the axle where a torque arm could be fitted as shown in the following image, but is this likely to ruin the dropout if the axle slips? This would have the torque arm pressing into the carbon. My motor can put out 45Nm. I am...

Used up most of the battery on the third cycle now, using PAS 3 all the time. My average speed is coming out to around 15 MPH. Here's the latest chart. I reckon it's got about 5 or 10 miles left in it on this charge... All rides were about 15 miles but the voltage dropped 5V on the first...

Just completed a full battery cycle on PAS 2 the whole time and here's the stats: Total miles: 56.05 Average WH/Mile: 16.03 Voltage when switched on again after cutoff: 44.5V Battery percentage when switched on again after cutoff: 26% So as long as steep hills are avoided when it's getting to...

Pah! You'd think they'd have a chip in that learns from your riding or something. Even after using one battery cycle it could get to work adjusting it all.

Cheers vfr400 yes I remember you mentioning this before. I'm useless at soldering etc. As long as I know it's getting near the end at around 45V (or 40% battery left) I'll be OK leaving it as it is. It makes me laugh how fast it goes on a fresh charge. :D It would be good if the controller had a...

Folks, how come on a fresh charge I can use the first 30% of the battery doing a 15 mile ride, then I can repeat that same 15 mile ride starting at 70% battery left and it only uses say 10% or 15%? I know the display can't accurately determine the percentage left but it's pretty far out. My...

I've not completed a full cycle on PAS 2 yet but I think this is pretty close: That is the true Ah (it took 11.38h to charge at 2A) and the Wh/mile might be a little off, it needs a full cycle doing, but then I don't need a calc, I'd just know what mileage it has done lol, the (other) calc is...