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They seem to be responding on Twitter, so maybe send them a tweet.

So the photograph shows: Thin red = +5v for hall sensors Thin black = GND for hall sensors Thin yellow = hall sensor for yellow phase Thin blue = hall sensor for blue phase Thin green = hall sensor for green phase Thin white = speed or temperature sensor, probably not needed Thick yellow =...

In that case the blue wire either became disconnected when you removed the controller or it fell off due to a dry joint. That could have been your original problem. The Blue wire needs to be resoldered and then connect it all back up to see if the motor runs.

In this photograph the thick blue phase wire is not connected, so the motor won’t run. The thin white wire is for the speed or temperature sensor which may not be needed.

Ooh, I think you will have trouble finding a replacement on eBay. It could be a DU B250 in a different case made specifically for OEMs like Decathlon. If it works OK in walking mode you could have a problem with the pedal assist sensor and the controller could be ok. Although your photograph...

Is it an Ananda controller?

You are not alone in experiencing these problems. I just found another older thread with exactly the same problem. The design of that bike makes it easy for water to get in and not so easy for it to get out, so no wonder your controller has drowned. Consider drilling a drainage hole in the...

Halfords are good enough for tools and sensibly priced.

Is it a Lishui controller? If it is and if it accepts a throttle, the circuit board will have the following three pins that you connect to the throttle. You may find the wiring is already soldered in and you just need to plug in your throttle. SP5V = Throttle +5v SPGND = Throttle 0v SP =...

If you whack a kit on your mtb it will be up and running within a couple of hours. Then you are not tied down to manufacturer specific parts when things need replacing. And you can easily unlock extra potential later if needs or wants arise. Or you can just pick and choose a suitable motor...

Plenty of people have trouble with hydraulic brake sensors using magnets and reed switches. You can now buy cheap and cheerful hydraulic levers with built in sensors, but I don’t want to replace my Clarke levers with these things...

I’m amazed that nothing fell off today.

It’s muddy out there today

Either post here or start a new thread with plenty of photos including the controller and connectors. Then someone will advise you what to do.

I left mine disconnected. Mine work ok on tarmac but as soon as I go off road they keep making the motor cut in and out every time I hit even the slightest of bumps. I think the reed switches keep contacting every time I hit a bump.

I dread to think how much your multishift cost. I like your hand guards, they look like Nukeproof. Do you mind telling where you got them? Edit: it’s ok I just found them on chain reaction. And you are lucky nothing fell off. I just lost 3 front brake rotor screws on my mtb and just popped...

Have you disconnected both of them? They are an absolute pain in the arse.

Spin tech is far more than branding. It is how the motor, controller, battery and display are all integrated.

The problem with modifying manufactured bikes like yours is that everything is nicely integrated, so when you try to modify them with 3rd party components you have to sacrifice all of the nice aesthetics when you start bolting on different batteries and controllers with their associated wiring...

There are a couple for sale on Ali Express with that connector, but I couldn’t find any on Amazon or eBay. If you don’t want to risk a purchase through Ali Express you will probably have to end up cutting and soldering. It’s worth doing some diagnostics first to make sure the display is...