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They use totally differing powering technologies, one a rear wheel hub the other a crank drive, plus IMO so importantly offer very differing cycling experiences. At least try out the two technologies first to see if like me you prefer one to the other. Best if you can use the subject bikes, but...

Much the same, the routine being to generally keep it between 20 and 80% full, only going to 100% just prior to a significant ride. i resist micro top ups, possibly more to get away from the hassle of forever charging, having to carefully watch how long it's on charge and attrition to the plug...

Assuming the Cube bike you trialed at Rutland could have been a crank drive bike with torque sensing based system of control, and most suggestions here are using very different technologies, hub drives and cadence based control systems, my advice is try one featuring those technologies before...

The hub just offers one peak torque to the road wheel, anything you need more there comes from you. The mid drive itself has a unique peak torque, but talking where it matters, at the road wheel, the chain set gear enables this to be multiplied by any of the gear ratios then in use; that simple.

That clause alone, if indeed a deal killer nails things for you; a mid drive with a single crank wheel that is practical for use with assisted drive, will be harder work climbing, compared to your three ring set up, once there is no assisted drive. You can't odds that with an otherwise general...

Removing the battery, will of course not help in the OP quest to reduce the amount of the campervan payload an e bike takes; though opting for reduced range will of course. IME, the issue can come with recharging unless camping on or with access to a mains electrical supply. So we tend to like...

I agree for the reasons you state, add to that anyone sensitive to the longevity of the usable life they seek from their battery, is not going to be keen on rapid recharging.

Don't one of you stop and let the other pass, as typically we do on many towpaths, footways etc with cyclist, pedestrians and those with buggies? Much the same as when driving cars around our lanes. The only potential issue surely is with two brain dead individuals meeting.

As the spring is helically wound, it will have an inherent direction that "unwinds" the bore, and one that makes the bore even tighter. So, wind the bar in turning that unwinding way only. Though this will be obvious enough once you start.

I share that concern, most certainly with using what I envisage an aluminium bar infers. For me it would be something more like an 8mm section potting bamboo cane job, something that will snap long before endangering me.

We are at cross purposes here, I am talking about levels of extension towards the passing vehicle threat, not the overall width. Seeing it is on the passing vehicle side that needs to encourage them to stay further out,

IMO, albeit an uninformed opinion, one meter would be regarded as way too far an extension. As a guide, mirrors on domestic cars are limited to an extension of 200mm beyond the vehicles body width. If you take you bars as your bike's width, then add 200 mm to that would be effectively the...

Okay they might, but in that case the OP would in the UK be wide open themselves to a charge for doing actual "Criminal damage", and here their concern was with the minor issue of the legal reach of these flags. To address the actual problem, it might be a better solution if instead of a screw...

Struth!

Certainly, a lovely bike, one I would like as another addition, but it is aimed at the "city" type of user, and with its smallish wheels would not be my choice for many 45-mile rides. Best take an extended demo/hire and do a 45 miler before committing, IMO.

In theory it must, but the numbers I have not the slightest idea about. It's got to be "polished" tarmac before I lock mine up, probably just the time it's too smooth to sap much energy anyway.

The facilitating the use of a Gates Carbon belt, is one of the big pluses of using hub gearing; no mess in car, in house or on clothes, no real need in many thousands of miles to make any adjustments; but at some considerable expense. Much the same I expect could come with a fully enclosed...

Not that well the way I would choose to wear them.

To achieve the same outcome, presumed to lower the seat top, look at the amount various saddles stand off the fixing with the seat post, these can vary and depend on the design of the fixing and other details.

At 58 years old and 115kgs, the £1000 if it only last two or three years could IMO be your best ever investment.