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Your new battery is the same voltage as the original, so your tip speed should be near original, even with increased wattage. What speed does it read with the wheel spinning in the air?

I honestly can't remember which of. My 3 wires is correct. All up there are only 6 combinations to try.

Id just try the pas wires in any combination then. One of mine when hooked up "correctly" by colour doesn't work. To work on mine 1 is correct by colour and the other 2 are opposite.

Is pas turned on?

E7 is hall failure in the hub. There is no failure code for the actual motor.

Is the motor a known good motor? Disconnect the 3 big wires from motor and while shorting 2 of them together, try spin the wheel backwards, is it very hard to turn?

This will run your motor at 13a. It can run 24-48v according to the specs however I think it actually goes up to 52v. It WILL need wiring in. 3 wires for throttle, 2 for power, 3 for PAS if you want that, 3 for motor and I think 5 for hall sensors. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNadwnX

That unit looks to be epexy filled, makes it a pain to do a shunt mod. If it's 250w @36v, you should be able to get 336w out of it if run on a 48v battery, assuming it can run 48v. A far cheaper option would be an aftermarket controller. Running your current 36v battery at 13a would give you...

1st hurdle. The battery I got is from a Shimano Steps equipped bike. It turns out this batterys BMS communicates to the Shimano charger and the original bike in order to work. Without that communication the battery won't turn on. Looks like I'll be removing the Shimano BMS and fitting an...

Ya that's still in regular use. I think that's near 3000km on it now.

Yep the Yep the brakes will line (just) up with the new rims. A this stage I'd pref out of place looking rims to keeping the original rims, which are not straight, and mismatched anyway. Eventually I'd like a good set of original rims and lace the motor to one of them. Failing that, I may...

I'm doing another vintage conversion. I scored another cheap Raleigh with pannier bag, and an electric conversion using a 700c wheel set. The only thing left to get is a controller. The battery is a 36v, which should be good for around 470w, with a cheap China controller. The only...

I've 2 of these controllers which are identical however they display differently. One will display wattage, but this is the one you DON'T want. The problem with it is that if it has a an error code displaying, ie e07, it will only display the current speed, and pas. You can't see trip, wattage...

Plug and play in that when it was wired in, it worked. Not plug and play in that the plugs were different so I had to wire it in.

I've got a an old eZee motor, and have used that motor on 2 different Brain Power speed controllers/lcds. Both were worked fine and gave it current control on pas and throttle. I was running it at 13amp, 36v so around 450w.

Thats odd. A cheap and cheerful $50 controller from China was all golden on mine.

I've done an electric conversion too, but to a Raleigh sport. If I was to do a Raleigh 20, here is what I'd do... To keep the 3 speed rear hub I'd go with a 250w front hub, however I'd get a hub thats made for a larger rim, like a 26", and have that laced to your smaller 20" rim. The size...

It's a 1973 Raleigh Sport, now running deep 700c alloy wheels + elec rear hub.

The current draw will drop when maintaining a lower speed due to wind resistance. The lower the speed, the less wind resistance, hence the lower currant draw. Wind resistance isn't liner, if you want to go say 20% faster, you will get MORE than a 20% increase in wind resistance, so the current...

It seems that the steepness of Baldwin St in NZ and Harlech in Wales have been re-assessed and Baldwin had come out as the steepest after all. https://i.stuff.co.nz/travel/back-your-backyard/120918309/baldwin-st-wins-back-title-of-worlds-steepest-from-welsh-challenger