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Once you have it set up you can play around with chainring sizes, you can buy them separately. I started off with 34 tooth, currently on 42 tooth. The bigger the chain ring the less you will spin out in top gear.

You don't HAVE to correct your chain line but it helps gear changing and reduces wear and tear on your drive train. Your pictures show a square taper bottom bracket so the crankset I show below would fit your bike no problem. Crankset: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124899141841?var=425979343809...

Some pictures of your BB/ crankset / chainring would help this thread :)

I replaced my triple crankset for a single chainring crankset from eBay. You will want a 'narrow wide' chainring, it stops the chain falling off apparently. Your chain line is the distance from the chainring to the centre of your frame, it should be about 50mm. I also ordered some triple...

A Bossnut mid-drive conversion is in this thread from this very website: https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/calibre-bossnut-with-tongsheng-tsdz2.39881/ Of course hanging the battery from the crossbar goes against saneagle's advice. He is very knowledgeable and his advice should not be...

How about one of these from Woosh Bikes?

Tidy conversion. Nice cable management, I never thought about routing the cables up the inner side of the seat tube etc. neater than routing them up the under side of the down tube. Your drip-loop could be a tad longer.

That site is crazy, they seem to have in stock every single ebike that has ever existed, and there is no search facility.

Hijacking ebikers and taking the bikes by armed yobs is a growth industry in my town. What are these trackers and where can I get one? Where would you fit one? Under the saddle seems too obvious, inside a frame tube sounds better...

saneagle approves of this post :D

Nice brakes.

Yep, but thought I'd mention the correct method :)

Also, that wheel you pictured looks to be 700c, is it? If so, I assume your new frame is for 700c wheels?

OK well you will need a headset bearing cup press tool to instal the bearing cups from your new headset into the frame, 10 quid on eBay. As you're using forks from another bike they will need to have a straight steerer tube (not tapered) I think that's what you have, you will need to check...

Will you be fitting the headset yourself? Do you have the forks you intend to fit and are the forks new or used?

Amazing depth of knowledge you have sir.

Yes it is a fairly easy task. First you have to determine if you have a freewheel or cassette, but very likely you have a freewheel (usually 7 gears or less): This video shows freewheel removal: [youtube]

Mate, I only mentioned my mechanical brakes because the OP is considering converting a nice old Raleigh that has rim brakes and his frame has no provision for disk brakes. Mechanicals/rim brakes are certainly not ideal on an electric bike but if one rides at legal speeds and one is careful not...

I also have a Woosh XF08C kit fitted to my 20 year old mountain bike (aluminium though). The kit has been trouble free and never fails to get me up hills. Mine has the downtube battery. My brakes are mechanical disk brakes which have similar performance to rim brakes. Just don't go too fast...

Thanks very much for your input. Going by your (and others) advice, I think I will up those tyre pressures a little. And yes, you and saneagle are absolutely right, hydraulic brakes will have to be next on my 'to do' list. Very strange how ROW goes for the front brake on the left, I could...