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For the price, unlikely to be bettered. DIY arduino type solution is about the only alternative.

A implying B dies not mean B implies A! You are free to continue not riding in the rain, gentleman or not!

Gentlemen don't ride in the rain.

There are some vast simplifications that might help, but for full understanding you'll need that darkened room. No load rpm for example. For a given voltage and with a standard controller i.e. without those fancy tweaks you mentioned, just basic commutation, at no load rpm the losses equal the...

Can you see enough thread in the notches to check left/right handedness? Heating the chainwheel might help, also tapping gently radially all the way round.

Less than a year old, so warranty should cover it. Any intrusive testing would jeopardise the warranty, so probably first move is talk to the suppliers.

The wikipedia for iron nitrite contains the word 'metastable'. My guess is no commercial solution has been found that is cheap and durable enough to out compete rare earth magnets. Good to know other options are out there.

I've broken ribs a couple of times, really uncomfortable for about 3 weeks each time. But it will pass, just cannot sneeze or laugh in that time. On the bike, if the bars are not the type that are fatter in the middle, then I'd look at changing the stem and bars to ones that are.

3 is a yes, as long as the two layers are connected well electrically, as the cross sectional area is the same, so same resistance and current carrying capacity. A single layer is preferable. 2 I am not clear what you mean by fabricated dash lines.

Now translate that into the connections that are needed, and don't allow yourself to be misled by that long strip of terminal strip you pictured earlier! All that is is a convenient way to manufacture and supply in bulk a 2 wide by any length connection matrix, which needs cutting to length to...

Go back a stage and make sure you understand what 10s and 2p mean in terms of the electrical connections between the cells. When you understand that, you will see the answer to 1. If you don't reach that level of understanding, you may well hurt yourself by shorting out cells.

Probably the easiest way is to open up the motor casing and remove everything except the crank. Hopefully the crank bearings will be either OK or a standard type (not a given). I'd still recommend looking at e.g. ebay and postal services to get parts.

Reflectors and lights are I think only required at night.

If they replace your bike no fuss then at least the 'after' service is pretty good! I hope you get a good outcome, and your ribs go back together OK.

It is likely that the later batteries E8014 428Wh and E8010 500Wh are compatible with the E6000 motor, just need the matching mount hardware, and are still in production, and the E6000 motor is available, so I'd be tempted to plan how to get spares rather than go non-electric. Then you should...

How many km has it done, has the battery range from full gone down much? My E5000 is at 12,000km, motor sounds same as when new, I've used multiple batteries so highest mileage battery has done about 3,000km and has 90% capacity. In what is probably quite a dry climate, it may go a lot longer...

That's a really good picture. The matt grainy texture in the upper part indicates 'overstress fracture', and the bending at both top and bottom shows that during your crash, at first it could stand the force applied, so it bent, until the stress at the outside of the bend exceeded the strength...

If the metal is not clean, there was probably a crack for quite a while before the break.

My last gear cable inner cost £2.50. I'd just fit a new one.

A second battery is probably a better solution, if your bike makes that feasible. My most recent addition was Yosepower 36V 15.6Ah £180 delivered. Back in July.