Front calliper mount standards?

[z0mb13e]

Hi All,

Can anyone she light on the various standards for disc brake mounts? I'm interested primarily in the front disc as my Whisper only has a front disc which recently seized up. (By the way if anyone has a spare Tektro IOX I'm looking for one here).

So my options are either sourcing a replacement IOX allowing me to use the spare pads I already have, going with the new Whisper supplied Tektro Novela or finding something else.

I've been pouring over the various options, made all the more complicated by certain sizes being out of stock at various suppliers and no mention of available adaptors and omission of what type of mounting they should fit...

I'm also torn between hydraulic vs mechanical. On the one hand hydraulic shouldn't need adjusting but I lose the electronic cut out on the front brake (unless I can jimmy some sort of pressure switch - yes I know, 'jimmying' something as critical as a brake isn't really the right way to put it, I actually meant over engineer a solution ).

The mechanical callipers need regular adjusting and pad wear isn't very even, plus as I have discovered, the adjusters seize solid rendering them useless.

Whichever way I go, I'm still a little confused as to the types of mounts on forks i.e. post mounts or IS.

Also does anyone have an opinion on these brakes?

Shimano Nexave

Clarke CMD-8

Clarke S2

Tektro Agura Comp

 

[jbond]

Avid BB7 for the win.
Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake (MTB) £41.49
A 180mm disk guarantees no clearance problems. Your fork is almost certainly IS mount. It's only recent and high end forks that have post mount. The Avid comes with adapters for both.

 

[banbury frank]

Hi

try this link

Tektro Auriga Front Hydraulic Disc Brake Lever : Bikes | Mountain Bikes | Road Bikes| Winstanleys

Tektro Auriga comp Hydraulic disc brakesets(F/R,160IS) | eBay UK

Frank

 

[z0mb13e]

Avid BB7 for the win.
Avid BB7 Mechanical Disc Brake (MTB) £41.49
A 180mm disk guarantees no clearance problems. Your fork is almost certainly IS mount. It's only recent and high end forks that have post mount. The Avid comes with adapters for both.

I've read good things about the BB5/7 mechanical brakes. They were definitely on the list and I did see this link in another thread, the price is pretty good, I just wasn't sure about the seller. Also I'm still in two minds about the hydraulic brakes when I can get one for the same price as the avid...

As for the fork mount, how would I know what type they are apart from reading the manual - hang on I'm sure I downloaded a copy of the fork manual... checking... nope it's gone. I will keep looking.

I guess if the Avid comes with adapters for both then it is likely that most others come with as well. Probably why they aren't really mentioned on the various websites...

 

[z0mb13e]

Hi

try this link

Tektro Auriga Front Hydraulic Disc Brake Lever : Bikes | Mountain Bikes | Road Bikes| Winstanleys

Tektro Auriga comp Hydraulic disc brakesets(F/R,160IS) | eBay UK

Frank

I've searched ebay and found a few (including a pair of IOX) but they are mostly from China or the USA and would take a while to get here. I think if I was going to go order from overseas I would rather order the Tektro Agura eComp mentioned in another thread. If you could order two sets what would it cost?

(Edit: Sorry Frank, that wasn't you - that was Mechaniker 'Frank' or was that you? Now I've confused myself!)

 

[z0mb13e]

Manual for RST forks is downloading but it is very slow, so a bit more googling and I found this which states the disc mount is IS2000 for the RST Vita fork.

IS2000? Ok googing IS2000...

 

[z0mb13e]

Hmm the manual wasn't any help - it just shows 'Disc Mount'

There isn't much out there on the exact details of IS2000 (which is odd as it is supposed to be an international standard)

Wikipedia has this

Calliper mounting standards

There are many standards for mounting disc brake callipers. I.S. (International Standard) is different for 6-inch (150 mm) and 8-inch (200 mm) rotor and differs between forks with a QR and 20 mm through axle. The post-mount standard also differs by disc size and axle type. Many incompatible variants were produced over the years, mostly by fork manufacturers.[citation needed] The mount used on the Rockshox Boxxer is the most typical of these specialty mounts, but most fork manufactures now use either the IS or post-mount standard for their current forks. As a point of reference, Hayes currently sells no fewer than 13 different adapters to fit their brakes to various mounting patterns.[30]
[edit] Advantages and disadvantages of various types of mounts

A disadvantage of post mounts is that the bolt is threaded directly into the fork lowers. If the threading is stripped or if the bolt is stuck, then new fork lowers are required. Frame manufacturers have standardized the IS mount for the rear disc brake mount. In recent years post mount has gained ground and is becoming the most common. This is mostly due to decreased manufacturing and part cost for the brake callipers when using post mount[citation needed]. A limitation of the mount is that the location of the rotor disc is more tightly constrained: it is possible to encounter incompatible hub/fork combinations, where the rotor is out of range. With an IS mount, the calliper can be moved closer to or further from the mount point using spacers; this can permit a wider range.[citation needed]

 

[John L]

I fitted the Clarke's CMD 8 with a 180mm rotor to my front bafang motor (with a 10mm adopter). However, I ended up taking it off because no matter what I did I couldn't stop the thing from squealing like a banshee when the motor was under load.

On the stand and on the road generally it was ok but when under load the vibration from the motor seem to be amplified by the rotor I tried all sorts of adjustments but nothing worked consistently. So I put back on the rim brakes. I was disappointed but the squealing was too much!



John

 

[z0mb13e]

I fitted the Clarke's CMD 8 with a 180mm rotor to my front bafang motor (with a 10mm adopter). However, I ended up taking it off because no matter what I did I couldn't stop the thing from squealing like a banshee when the motor was under load.

On the stand and on the road generally it was ok but when under load the vibration from the motor seem to be amplified by the rotor I tried all sorts of adjustments but nothing worked consistently. So I put back on the rim brakes. I was disappointed but the squealing was too much!



John

Squealing aside, what was the stopping power like and can you compare it to any other disc brakes?

Whenever I fitted brake pads on a car I always put a thin film of copper slip grease over the back of the pad to stop squealing. Perhaps this would work on bike brakes too, though it would be tricky to avoid getting it on the pads.

Out of interest, how does the rotor attach to the hub motor? I'm guessing the motor is drilled to take some sort of mount for the disc.

 

[z0mb13e]

I was feeling a bit gung ho this am...

Wanting to get my Whisper back on the road I took a punt on the Clark S2 hydraulic brakes. I've been using their rim brake cartridge pads for the last few years and can't fault them so I figured what the hay. After all, the mechanical brakes I have looked at are all (apart from the cheapie ones) up around the £30 mark and with shipping works out about the same as the S2s. Plus it will give me a chance to look at how bicycle hydraulics are setup and the fittings etc so I may be able to sort out an in-line cut out switch...

 

[Mussels]

The Tektro calipers aren't hard to strip, clean and grease, it's about a 1/2 hour job.

 

[z0mb13e]

The Tektro calipers aren't hard to strip, clean and grease, it's about a 1/2 hour job.

If you mean to fix my existing calliper, I've tried that already and in the process broke the cable adjuster which had also seized in place. Dropped the offending adjuster bolt side of the calliper into a tin of WD40 and left it for 2 days and I've tried heating it up a bit too. The adjuster still won't budge and the allen drive is rounding off with the force I'm putting in. I did consider drilling it out and making a new one but I can't cut recessed drives as I only have a lathe.

 

[Mussels]

If you mean to fix my existing calliper, I've tried that already and in the process broke the cable adjuster which had also seized in place. Dropped the offending adjuster bolt side of the calliper into a tin of WD40 and left it for 2 days and I've tried heating it up a bit too. The adjuster still won't budge and the allen drive is rounding off with the force I'm putting in. I did consider drilling it out and making a new one but I can't cut recessed drives as I only have a lathe.

Ah, that's not so good.

 

[z0mb13e]

The Clark S2 185s turned up today and I've just finished fitting it. Everything went in without too much drama, so I guess the standards are just that, pretty much standard which is nice to know.

I gave up trying to remove the half grip as it looked well and truly super glued in place and I didn't want to make a mess of it so tried to open the clamp on the existing brake lever with predictable results - it cracked. Oh well, at least I have a switched lever to examine should I be able to make a hydraulic cut off switch...

Seems that the sea air/salt/rain is taking its toll. I've just discovered that the caliper mounts on the forks are corroded on the outside. Lots of dusty corrosion and a noticeable indent on one. Must be more diligent with washing the bike down on wet days.

Anyway, as for the brakes themselves apart from the excessive motor run on when only braking with the front brake (I tend to brake with both brakes normally so that shouldn't be a problem) the stopping power is amazing compared to the IOX and they aren't really bedded in properly yet. They are a bit noisy but time will tell.

As a result I have a set of unused Superstar sintered pads for Tektro IOX/Lyra going begging if anyone can use them. Just PM me and i'll pop them in the post.

 

[banbury frank]

Hi
Link for a Hydraulic switch that was posted on the forum


Clutch Switch Hydraulic Type | Any bike

Will need a t piece to fit

Frank

 

[z0mb13e]

That's interesting Frank, shame there isn't more information on the product, fitting, switch type etc.

More research into bike hydraulics coming on I think.