its holding the housing on at the moment, the bolts that was supplied with it aren't long enough.
Cyclotricity kit...
- Thread starter contadino
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D
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It's not very clear in the photo, but did you leave the plastic disc spacer on the motor. If so, you should remove it.
The axle doesn't seem to be very far into the drop-out. It's not possible to see if everything is correct from the photo, but, just in case you don't know, there's a critical point to look out for when you fit a front motor:
The first washer must fit completely in the dimple (lawyers lips) and mustn't touch any of the raised part. The drop-outs alone are not strong enough to resist the motor torque, especially when the axle isn't in deep enough. You need the friction from the nuts being done up tight as well. If the first washer doesn't lie flat, you get two problems: firstly, the sideways pressure on the lip when you tighten the nut can crack the front off the drop-out; secondly, you can't get enough friction to resist the torque, so both drop-outs pop when you're climbing a steep hill, and you end up planting your face on the road, which hurts a lot and ore importantly, can spoil your good looks.
To get the first washer in properly, you can file your drop-outs deeper to re-centralise the axle, which is the best solution; or you can file the outside of the washer until it fits.
I've never seen any of this mentioned in instructions from kits, although some kits provide eccentric washers ("C" washers).
The axle doesn't seem to be very far into the drop-out. It's not possible to see if everything is correct from the photo, but, just in case you don't know, there's a critical point to look out for when you fit a front motor:
The first washer must fit completely in the dimple (lawyers lips) and mustn't touch any of the raised part. The drop-outs alone are not strong enough to resist the motor torque, especially when the axle isn't in deep enough. You need the friction from the nuts being done up tight as well. If the first washer doesn't lie flat, you get two problems: firstly, the sideways pressure on the lip when you tighten the nut can crack the front off the drop-out; secondly, you can't get enough friction to resist the torque, so both drop-outs pop when you're climbing a steep hill, and you end up planting your face on the road, which hurts a lot and ore importantly, can spoil your good looks.
To get the first washer in properly, you can file your drop-outs deeper to re-centralise the axle, which is the best solution; or you can file the outside of the washer until it fits.
I've never seen any of this mentioned in instructions from kits, although some kits provide eccentric washers ("C" washers).
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Looking good so far, i'm just wondering if you filed the forks deeper as well as wider (as d8veh mentioned) to centralise the disc/wheel, I had to reduce the outer diameter of the outer washers to fit the recesses and to fit above the lips. Being a bit belt and braces, I also fitted a torque arm.
It also looks as if the plastic washer is still in there behind the rotor as it's showing black rather than the silver colour of the hub motor.
You may have saved me a bit of hassle as I'm thinking of getting a more suitable bike for my kit and from your experience it sounds like a 180mm rotor would be best.
Now looking for a brand new 21" frame 27 gear hard tail of decent quality, ideally with mechanical 180 disc brakes, at around the £500 mark in the sales!
I think I may have to end up with a compromise but not on frame size or gears.
Hi link for diamondback great bike only 20 inch frame but 27 gears and 180 rotor on front £535 free delivery Hydraulic disc brakes brakes
Diamondback Response Comp 20" Hardtail Mountain Bike - RRP £745 | eBay
Frank
Diamondback Response Comp 20" Hardtail Mountain Bike - RRP £745 | eBay
Frank
Thanks for the link, it does seem that the best bargains are on line though I really would like to try for size before I buy.
I have 2 bikes, one 21" and one 20" and the 20 is a bigger frame than the 21, I have the same problem with shoes!
Sorry folks for getting off subject.
Hi everyone, thanks d8veh, I wasn't sure if that was supposed to be there or not. yeah the black spacer was still on but I have removed it now, I've filed the dropouts deeper to incorporate the hub but I haven't decreased the width of the washer, it seems to fit in fine without having to do that, the washer fits in between the lips that d8veh mentioned so that seems to be sorted.
I was looking at he trek 3500 in the sales, its less than £400 and with a similar frame but with the mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulic, the only problem with the 3500 is that you would have the same problem with the width of the seat post tube and will have to get some longer bolts to fit the controller housing but the frames are really strong and light plus they look great
Trek 3500 Disc Hardtail Mountain Bike 2013 - Sale
Also my usual route to work took me an hour on Sunday and only took me 37 minutes today and that's with traffic, still a little sweaty when I got here but now I know that I'm going that little faster I can ease off a little on the fast peddling.
I was looking at he trek 3500 in the sales, its less than £400 and with a similar frame but with the mechanical disc brakes instead of hydraulic, the only problem with the 3500 is that you would have the same problem with the width of the seat post tube and will have to get some longer bolts to fit the controller housing but the frames are really strong and light plus they look great
Trek 3500 Disc Hardtail Mountain Bike 2013 - Sale
Also my usual route to work took me an hour on Sunday and only took me 37 minutes today and that's with traffic, still a little sweaty when I got here but now I know that I'm going that little faster I can ease off a little on the fast peddling.
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D
Deleted member 4366
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You don't have to buy a bike to get 180mm disc. You cn get them on Ebay for about £7 You need the 160/180mm adapter too.
180MM ROTOR FOR MTB BIKECLARKS WAVEY DESIGN BRAND NEW INC 6 BOLTS FREE P&P | eBay
This type for side mount:
[Bi_King] BENGAL IS Mount Disc Adaptor 74mm-51mm For Front 180mm Rotor Red SC11A | eBay
This type for post mount:
Shimano Spares Adapter For Post Type Calliper, For 180 mm Post Type Fork Mount | eBay
Rather than buy a new bike for conversion, you can get bikes as good as new for less than half price on Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved and facebook local ads..
180MM ROTOR FOR MTB BIKECLARKS WAVEY DESIGN BRAND NEW INC 6 BOLTS FREE P&P | eBay
This type for side mount:
[Bi_King] BENGAL IS Mount Disc Adaptor 74mm-51mm For Front 180mm Rotor Red SC11A | eBay
This type for post mount:
Shimano Spares Adapter For Post Type Calliper, For 180 mm Post Type Fork Mount | eBay
Rather than buy a new bike for conversion, you can get bikes as good as new for less than half price on Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved and facebook local ads..
This is very true, if you have mounts on your forks and on the rear just above the rear drop out and have the rear wheel hub compatabilty for a disc then you will be able to fit your own mechanical disc brakes. Save some money that way.
My bike should be about £550/600 new but got it on eBay for £250 and its only a 2012 model. You could get the trek 3500 model on eBay for about the £200ish price.
Some things I've noticed on my bike that I need to change after doing about 30 miles on it so far...
I'm used to have full suspension bikes and a hard tail is a bit rough on my rear cheeks so I will be investing in a suspension seat post as soon as I can.
I put the throttle on the right hand side thinking it would feel the correct place to have it but now I've noticed that if and when I'm climbing a hill I have to take my thumb off the throttle to change the gears as I have the thumb shifters, there are 2 things I could do here 1. Is move the throttle to the left hand side as I never have to ever change my crank chain at all or 2. I was thinking of getting the shimano dual control shifter because the brake and gear changing is all controlled by the brake lever, I had these on my last bike and loved them so for now I'm changing the throttle to the left and then when I get my new dual control shifters I can have the option of moving it back, also on a plus note with these shifters they don't eat up as much room on the handle bars so makes a nice fit on any bike.
That's the couple of niggles I've found so far and hopefully that should be it once I've sorted them out.
I'm used to have full suspension bikes and a hard tail is a bit rough on my rear cheeks so I will be investing in a suspension seat post as soon as I can.
I put the throttle on the right hand side thinking it would feel the correct place to have it but now I've noticed that if and when I'm climbing a hill I have to take my thumb off the throttle to change the gears as I have the thumb shifters, there are 2 things I could do here 1. Is move the throttle to the left hand side as I never have to ever change my crank chain at all or 2. I was thinking of getting the shimano dual control shifter because the brake and gear changing is all controlled by the brake lever, I had these on my last bike and loved them so for now I'm changing the throttle to the left and then when I get my new dual control shifters I can have the option of moving it back, also on a plus note with these shifters they don't eat up as much room on the handle bars so makes a nice fit on any bike.
That's the couple of niggles I've found so far and hopefully that should be it once I've sorted them out.
Thanks for that but my bikes are so old that I don't have disc mounts.
I now want a new bike after 14 years of abstinence then will give away one of mine to a deserving cause.
Someone has to buy new things or there would be no second hands ones
I found the same as you with the throttle and have it on the left.
Also ditto with the seat post
I know what you mean. Got combi-shifters on my Trek .. older XT-type.. and went to great pains to retain them when putting the build together. If I'm using the throttle on the RHS I can change up the rear cassette using my index finger whilst keeping thumb on the throttle. Obviously going back down it is just a case of pushing down the brake lever with top of the palm. Works fine, especially in traffic.
I've got an unsprung throttle on the LHS as well for longer rides or open roads. A switch flicks between the two. This works on continuous 'open' when set beyond the 'off position' but you can set the throttle level anywhere between 0 & max and then only adjust it 'in-ride' if you want more or less power. So no need to touch the throttle at all when changing gears - and more importantly the days of stiff thumbs history. Set & forget for as long as you want basically. If you release the brake from a stop you go back to where you were before if you don't move the throttle lever to 'off'. Obviously you need a brake cutoff when using it like this else you have to remember to move the lever back to zero or alternatively overpower the motor with your brakes. It was d8veh's 'cruise control' design.
I've kept the dual (throttle) system only because I'm less happy using the unsprung throttle in town or stop/start traffic, the bike is very powerful and the sprung throttle gives easier precise instant variable control (am ultra-cautious !). But if I were to only have one I'd probably have the unsprung one now I'm used to it and definitely with a less powerful bike. Can highly recommend something like this along with (or instead of) combi-shifters on a throttle bike. Having the combi-shifters releases handlebar space (although they are bulkier to fit throttle around) so having versatile throttle options covered isn't really a problem
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We'll I've been using me new kit for 3 days now and I'm very impressed with it. I have now done my three 12 hour charges and I think the battery is fully conditioned now, on my first day on Wednesday I took it out for a 9 mile ride and then later on I did a 4 mile ride to tesco and back and then some pottering about checking what top speed I can get on a flat and up a hill, in total I did about 15/16 miles and when I got to the final hill near home my motor was starting to cut out and I knew I had used all eh battery up as I was supposed to do on the first full charge/ discharge.
The 2 day was to and from work, I rode to work with a head wind so throttle was on quite a lot to help me out and when I got there I had used 2 of the 4 green lights on the battery, at the end of the day I rode home but no head wind this time and made it back with just one green light left and close to being depleted again.
Today I have rode to work again and had the same head wind but I got to work with only 1 green light gone so it looks like the battery is at top notch and fully conditioned. Saying that though I took my time today, I did my 10 miles to work in 37 minutes yesterday instead of the normal hour it took with out the motor and today I took it steady and made it in about 45 so maybe that preserved the battery slightly.
I can't believe how much easier the hills feel with the assistance of the motor, turning the throttle off half way up a hill now feels like I've put a brake on and I slowly start to slow down but full throttle it again and I instantly get back up to speed but still peddling obviously. I highly recommend the cyclotricity kit to anyone thinking of upgrading their bike to electric. You can still ride as normal with out the power but believe me when you know its there you will be using it more often than not.
The 2 day was to and from work, I rode to work with a head wind so throttle was on quite a lot to help me out and when I got there I had used 2 of the 4 green lights on the battery, at the end of the day I rode home but no head wind this time and made it back with just one green light left and close to being depleted again.
Today I have rode to work again and had the same head wind but I got to work with only 1 green light gone so it looks like the battery is at top notch and fully conditioned. Saying that though I took my time today, I did my 10 miles to work in 37 minutes yesterday instead of the normal hour it took with out the motor and today I took it steady and made it in about 45 so maybe that preserved the battery slightly.
I can't believe how much easier the hills feel with the assistance of the motor, turning the throttle off half way up a hill now feels like I've put a brake on and I slowly start to slow down but full throttle it again and I instantly get back up to speed but still peddling obviously. I highly recommend the cyclotricity kit to anyone thinking of upgrading their bike to electric. You can still ride as normal with out the power but believe me when you know its there you will be using it more often than not.
Oh and one other thing, yesterday I made it back from my 10 mile trek home in 35 minutes and total beat the bus I normally get, the bus takes the same route as me but with a little detour, it normally takes 40 minutes on the bus.
I worked out that my average speed yesterday was over 16mph.
On a flat with no wind and no peddling my speedo flicks between 18 and 19mph and up a small incline I was getting 12/13mph with no pedalling. Very impressed for a small motor.
I worked out that my average speed yesterday was over 16mph.
On a flat with no wind and no peddling my speedo flicks between 18 and 19mph and up a small incline I was getting 12/13mph with no pedalling. Very impressed for a small motor.
I find that If I'm doing a longish ride and I don't use power for the first mile or two, it feels great when I start to use it, also when I go to pedal power only it doesn't feel quite so much of a drag.
Probably all in the mind but it works for me, no good if you have to climb hills straight away of course.
As I'm very new to this though not to cycling, it's great to hear someone else's thoughts which seem to back up my own experience.
Probably all in the mind but it works for me, no good if you have to climb hills straight away of course.
As I'm very new to this though not to cycling, it's great to hear someone else's thoughts which seem to back up my own experience.
I going to give that a go on Monday, it's my week end off so I'll be pottering about doing a few small trips. I live on a hill and I have to ride down it first and then over a small hump back bridge so I will try not using the throttle for the first mile or two, I think because it's so new I just want to use it all the time but I know as soon as I'm used to the mileage I'm doing on a daily basis I will use it a little less.
Hi Ray..... I was looking at the pics of your bike in this thread..... it looks great and the kit incorporates really well into your bike. I especially like the black colour of the bottle battery, seems less conspicuous than the silver colour I've seen these batteries in.
Was there any reason you went for the Cyclotricity kit instead of the 8fun kit ?..... Also was the controller case included with the kit, and is there any possibility of the controller overheating being enclosed ?
hi yamdude
I went for the cyclotricity kit just because I heard a lot of good reports about it and its very easy to install.
the case for the controller is included with the kit but the clips that hold it to the frame aren't very wide and as you can tell from one of my picks I have held it in place until I can get some longer bolts, my frame is quite chunky though so it might just be that.
I have now done about 60/70 miles on it since Wednesday, doing 20 miles a day on Thursday and Friday and I haven't felt it get hot yet. hope this helps.
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