If you have solder modded the shunt are you certain no moulton solder has shorted or splatter/dripped on other parts of the pcb ?
Using cut offs isn't necessary for motor stop as the KT PAS time stop/decay is quite quick and not required if a throttle isn't fitted. The brakes may over power the motor but in a case when a short causes max power you will burn out the controller if you fit a throttle. This is unlikely with PAS but can occur if a throttle is fitted, twice I have had a throttle issue (one was moisture shorting , the other a wire break ), on both occasions the brake cut out prevented the bike rearing and shooting off, instant controller power shut down so no internal damage.I don't use the cut-offs and I don't really see a point for a kit with this power. The brakes will easily overpower the motor.
You could buy small cut off switches that you can mount directly on your existing brake handles if you want to use it.
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Almost 100% certain. I was very thourough doing this and it was also over 6 months ago. I soldered in such a way that excess solder would have dripped outside of the controller instead of onto the pcb. I added solder that gave me 2-3 more AMPS (meassured with AMP meter). The "freezes" I encounter now doesn't seem to have anything to do with PAS or power level used and not temperature either. It happens in 25 degrees sunny weather as well as 6 degrees and drizzle.
Hey Nealh, thanks for your perspective on it and for providing a workable and cheap solution with regards to using the already provided sensored plunger. I will see if i can take a look and understand how that woudl work.
Hello there - it is good advice to read this thread from start to finish on a rainy day perhaps - I use hydraulic V-brakes(yes they do make em) on mine with amazing results and I do use brake sensors.
If I remember rightly to remove the cabled sensor complete with julet connector, remove the pin and circlip to remove the lever. The cable entry has a small threaded plastic bezel undo this and slide a long the cable carefully then nip off the bezel with cutters, grease the julet outer with super slippy spread from the fridge and gently push/pull is through the brake housing.
Thanks neal I'll go through these instructions carefully and painstakingly when I'm more rested and hopefully I'll get it. Good thing they have me two as at least all is not lost if I make a mistake.
Do you wear a crash helmet when you go out for a walk in case something drops on your head?
My Yose throttle has become sticky a few times as its fitted next to the handgrip (on left). The rubbery handgrip rides up higher on the handlebars and jams the throttle slightly, as the end is worn and I have occasionally balances the bike against wall with handlebars. So going by Murphy's Law, ("Anything that can go wrong will go wrong" ), I agree that its better to have brake cut-offs.
I concur - I can not count the times the many throttles I have had have stuck and always on PAS 5 - I guess in the end it comes down to personal preference and experience, those new to ebikes might find cut offs a good idea, I know i did on my first ride nearly running a red light because of an over sensitive PAS, but in time, as I mentioned before worse case scenario for me I suppose I could hit the battery off switch if need be, however I tend to use my cut offs as a clutch, when in PAS 5 and knowing the git in front off me might make me stop I use the brake to cut the motor just to change gear.
Hi. I took a close look at throttle (FT21X). It has that 3 castled bits protruding about 1 mm spacing but the flexible tapered handgrip end seems to ride up over them and get wedged under the throttle moving part. I might look for a stiff washer here to fit between handgrip and throttle to stop this.Many throttles have a special spacer/washer type thing that stops anything interfering with its operation to make it stiff. Nearly all DIYers don't notice it or understand what it's for so they don't install it. Do you guys with stiff throttles have it installed? It's like a ring with castellations/dogs that slot into the throttle.
You can see it here.
The only time I remember my LCD freezing was after getting caught in a heavy rain storm, so I dried it out using the old rice method, it work fine after that, I think most of the water got in at the switches... I was going to suggest a new controller if not just to eliminate that as a problem source... I also briefly read above someone talking about getting annoyed with the vibration, but since I changed controller to that after market dolphin case controller mount my main problem disappeared and the vibration is there but only for a few seconds and is hardly noticeable anymore.... I have a YOSE 250 front in black and it uses the same controller as the 350w I have a funny feeling that the controller albeit works with the 350w it was not designed for the 350w. I never had one vibration or general issue with the 250w.
100% agree. A smear of silicon grease essential on the 108x moving parts.
