Help! Yosemite Fatbike (Electric fail, Ananda)

[Larsen]

Hello.
I'm new here and Norwegian, so I`ll apologize in advance for stupid questions and for my English,
but I really need the help I can get here.

I have a Yosemite Fatbike (electric) that doesn't work.

The setup on the bike.

Display - Yosemite D15 (Ananda D15, but without the PAS 4 and 5 diodes)

Controller - Ananda MC5-B0

Engine - Bafang RM G060.250.D 10

The display blinks constantly on the PAS 2 diode.
(Don't know if PAS diode 4 or 5 also would have blinked because the display I have don't have those diodes)

My neighbor has the same bike so I borrowed it to troubleshoot with elimination, when I moved his controller to my bike the bike started up straight away but after a few meters it resulted in my bike destroying my neighbors controller too, now that one flashes in the exact same way as mine.

I measured the windings in the motor and between all three wires (green, yellow, blue) the resistance is 0.4 ohms, I have also checked that the hall sensors vary between 0v-5v.

Should there be 3 different measure readings on HALL a/b/c depending on where in the cycle the engine is?
A and C had the same readings at the same time and B had different readings.

I don't see any direct faults or measure anything that makes me think the engine is defective, but I see a bit of corrosion and rust, so it indicates that there has been water there.

My question: Is it possible to fix the controller and motor? Or do I have to get a new motor and controller?

If I have to buy new: Does anybody know where I can get bolt on without the need for customizing? (Soldering wires is no problem)
The only "extra" part on the bike not mentioned here is the PAS sensor, there is no sensor for speed or gas on this system.

Thank you in advance for the help.

 

[Larsen]

Some pictures.

 

[matthewslack]

With obvious damage to the circuit board, it makes no sense to try anything else until that is sorted out.

Awkward issues are impossible to diagnose reliably so fix the obvious and try again.

If controllers are cheap you could just clean that dodgy board and risk another one!

 

[saneagle]

There is indeed a speed sensor. It's mounted in the white holder in the 7 o'clock position. Its signal goes through the white wire and it gets its power from the red and black wires connected to the pcb. That should mean that yo have the option to change to an LCD with speed display.

All problems can be measured. You don't need to guess or use intuition. Those two things normally slow you down from finding the fault.

For the motor to work, it needs to give the correct signals from the three hall sensors and generate a small voltage between each pair of phase wires when you turn the motor. That's 6 simple tests that can be done in less than 5 minutes, then you get the answer whether it's OK or not.

Rarely, we see motors with unusual faults, like a screw loose inside the motor or wires not tied down properly and rubbing on the casing to get an intermittent short. The only thing that looks wrong with yours is the corrosion around the hall sensors. I'd test before cleaning so that you can see if it was the cause.

 

[Nealh]

The Ananda D15 manual has error descriptions for the five PAS LED , one can assume the error fault is the same for the three PAS LED.
Flashing LED two PAS is a Phase cable over current error or likely menas a Mosfet short.

The fault is likely down to a blown mosfet in the controller one can test the controller with a meter if it has the wire block connectore .
Alternatively try turning the wheel manually by hand with everything connected with no battery , if the controller mosfet is shorted there will be hard rotational resistance . If one then disconnects the controller from the hub motor , the hub motor should rotate easily by hand.

 

[Nealh]

One can use the opportunity to replace the Ananda D15 LED and speed controller with nice KT 6 mosfet or 9 mosfet controller and a nice LCD display , a KT set up will give one five nice levels of power and use current control over the horiible speed control..
One will then thank us later when they realise how much nicer current control with five PAS levels is when riding .

 

[Larsen]

Thanks for the help, advice and tips. I need a new controller and might as well buy one that is a bit better and more powerful than the original. Any tips on which one I should go for and where I can buy it? Preferably as a set of controller, pas, throttle and display. Don't need a super fancy display, want the bike to look as original as possible. And if possible, it would be nice to be able to use the original pas that is on the bike.

 

[Nealh]

By far best upgrade is to a KT controller set up, buy all the items via Topbikekit.com or their AliExp store.
PAS is cheap to buy so simply buy one with the kit and keep as spare if not used.
The exsisting PAS wire sequence may differ so wires may need swapping , alldepends on the conector used or simply chop connectors off and solder 5v to 5v , Gnd to Gnd & Signal to Signal.

KT LCD4 for minimilist display or maybe the LCD5 , in all theie are some 12 LCD's to select from.

 

[Larsen]

Hello again.
A new detail here, I got the bike running again with the controller, display and pas. What I did was to plug out an "extra" connector with wires coming from the battery to the controller. From the battery comes red, green and yellow, plugged together with the same colors from the controller, plus a black one from the controller that is not connected to anything. Anyone know what it could be?

 

[saneagle]

They're for communication. How did they become disconnected?

 

[Larsen]

Okay, thank you. I disconnected it and then the bike works as normal, as soon as I connect them again I get the error code blinking on the display, as soon as I disconnet it the bike works normal again.