Help! Wrong size battery? What should I do?

[Chriso518]

So my battery finally arrived today, the only thing is it doesn't fit my controller and I'm a little confused as I assumed you could fit a 52v into a 48v controller I just need some advice as what Todo as it's not possible too get a refund could I buy a controller that fits my 52v batter and runs a 1500w hub motor (as this is the one I have)ideally I just need a a controller with bigger power cables and an xt90 s connector too make it compatible right of so does anyone know of one available? I'd appreciate any help I could

 

[MontyPAS]

One half of the plug is a XT60, the other a XT90 (shown in the picture)
Change either to match.... Job done!

 

[Chriso518]

One half of the plug is a XT60, the other a XT90 (shown in the picture)
Change either to match.... Job done!

Thankyou I assumed as much the red and black power cables with are about twice the diameter as the ones on the controller with the xt60 would that be an issue?

 

[Nealh]

The KT controllers are easy to open, solder a new XT90 with 12awg wires to the controller board. Job done.
If you look on ebay or elsewhere you can buy XT90 with tails already soldered so half the job already done.

 

[Chriso518]

The KT controllers are easy to open, solder a new XT90 with 12awg wires to the controller board. Job done.
If you look on ebay or elsewhere you can buy XT90 with tails already soldered so half the job already done.

Thankyou I appreciate the help

 

[vfr400]

You don't need connectors. Cut them off and solder the wires together.

 

[MontyPAS]

You don't need connectors. Cut them off and solder the wires together.

How did I know you would say that!

 

[vfr400]

How did I know you would say that!

Because is the cheapest, easiest, most reliable, neatest and most logical solution. When did you ever disconnect your battery from your motor controller? Even if the very rare circumstances turned up, it's quicker to cut the soldered joints with side-cutters than to pull a connector apart, and you don't need to worry about what connector's on your next controller.

 

[flecc]

When did you ever disconnect your battery from your motor controller?

1) To charge it indoors, particularly important in very cold weather when the battery can get very cold.

2) To be able to use two batteries for very long runs or a quick turn round.
.

 

[vfr400]

1) To charge it indoors, particularly important in very cold weather when the battery can get very cold.

2) To be able to use two batteries for very long runs or a quick turn round.
.

You're forgetting one thing, Flecc: Like OP's battery most have a permanently mounted receiver from which the battery unclips. Op's un-matching connector is on the receiver, not the battery. The battery has it's own connector. Why would you want to disconnect the receiver?

 

[flecc]

The battery has it's own connector.

Thanks, that wasn't clear from the thread that it could still be removed for charging.
.

 

[Chriso518]

You don't need connectors. Cut them off and solder the wires together.

So it I don't have too worry about the gauge then? I can just cut both connectors off and solder the 12awg red and black too the 8awg?

 

[vfr400]

So it I don't have too worry about the gauge then? I can just cut both connectors off and solder the 12awg red and black too the 8awg?

Yes, assuming that your battery is removable from a holder. For that size, a tiny blow torch would probably be better than a soldering iron. I've even done them on the gas stove.

 

[Nealh]

12awg is 45a capable and a bit more for the short wire length from the battery.

 

[MontyPAS]

Yes, assuming that your battery is removable from a holder. For that size, a tiny blow torch would probably be better than a soldering iron. I've even done them on the gas stove.

The op is clearly inexperienced in electrical aspects. Advising using a blow torch or the heat from a gas hob is clearly not the way to go...
Having worked in the industry for the last three decades,using the correct tools and methods iis clearly the way to go

 

[vfr400]

The op is clearly inexperienced in electrical aspects. Advising using a blow torch or the heat from a gas hob is clearly not the way to go...
Having worked in the industry for the last three decades,using the correct tools and methods iis clearly the way to go

All you have to do is push the wires in to each other, heat up with the gas and push in the solder wire until the joint is full. Nothing could be easier. Crimping can't be done without special tools. Are you going to lend him yours?

 

[MontyPAS]

All you have to do is push the wires in to each other, heat up with the gas and push in the solder wire until the joint is full. Nothing could be easier. Crimping can't be done without special tools. Are you going to lend him yours?

I'd gladly lend him mine. TBH the size of wires used in pedelecs they do not need specialised crimp tools to achieve a safe reliable joint. If you talking 600v dc rail connections, then sure you would require a hydraulic crimp tool.
Crimp!
Advocating using the heat from a gas hob to solder join cables is not good practice. The size of cables used in pedelecs power source can easily by soldered safely using a heavy duty soldering iron. Good practice is safe practice.
Crimp is easier

 

[wheeliepete]

Maybe one of these would be an easier option.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[Chriso518]

Maybe one of these would be an easier option.

Pardon our interruption...

Thanks everyone really appreciate the support think this is my easiest option

 

[Chriso518]

Got another issue I tested my batter charger last night and there was a green light and I've plugged the battery in the lights gone red and it started too charge I unplugged the battery and turned off the main plug but left the charger in the wall I've woken up too stick it on charge and I've turned everything on but no light comes on the charger I don't know what's happened but I'm assumed the chargers blown for some reason any ideas? (The charger is on and plugged in in the photo)