Woosh BBTS 68mm kit starts shipping

[Woosh]

The hardware has arrived a couple of weeks ago, but I was so busy lately adding mobile phone support to the Woosh Bikes website and Andy was also busy with writing the manual for it. The good news is we are now ready to start shipping.

Woosh hub kit with torque sensor

Woosh torque sensor kit with choice of front or rear hub motors. Convert your bike easily into an electric bike in record time.

wooshbikes.co.uk

This kit is only for 68mm bottom bracket shell. If you don't know if your bottom bracket is right for this kit, please email some pictures to kits@wooshbikes.co.uk

The kit is plug and play and it's very simple to put together. The crucial step is to replace the old bottom bracket with a new one.
I posted a short video here. As it was filmed with a mobile phone, it's nicer to watch it on my web page though.

WHAT IS IN THE KIT?

• 1) BBTS 68mm torque sensor
• 2) M5 LCD with 5 assist levels + 15A controller
• 3) Your choice of 44T or 48T crankset
• 4) Motor wheel of your choice in 20", 26", 650B or 700C*
• 5) Battery and charger of your choice 36V/48V

You don't need to buy all 5 items if you just want to refresh your existing kit with a BBTS. The main thing is you need a wheel that has standard 9-pin connector, with speed sensor built in. You will only need items 1 + 2 + 3 costing £100 in total. It's is relatively inexpensive and you enjoy normal after sale service.

How does it work?

The left side (non drive) cup has splines which stop the bottom bracket body from moving.
Your pedalling force then creates a deviation of the inner shell which gets picked up by the electronics.
The connector has 4 pins: 5V, ground, PAS and Torque. PAS works in the normal way and can be used directly as is with a standard e-bike controller.
The torque output however is too weak to replace the standard throttle.

Andy is still putting the finishing touches to the manuals so you can't download the manuals quite yet.

Please let me have your comments.

 

[Woosh]

I forgot to add that you need to drill a 10mm hole for the cable. Here is how it looks on the demo bike:

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Ah drat, 73mm bottom bracket !

 

[Woosh]

Ah drat, 73mm bottom bracket !

It will have to wait until January. Sorry...

 

[Peter.Bridge]

It will have to wait until January. Sorry...

I had assumed it was 73mm because it is a mountain bike but

 

[Woosh]

that looks promissing!

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Is there any "advanced" features for configuring the controller, setting max current, pedal assist levels etc
How does pedal assist work ? Is the power proportional to the torque ? Are the pas levels effectively power levels ? Is it a sine wave controller ? Can you attach a throttle ? Is there a lighting output ? It seems incredibly good value !

 

[Woosh]

There are a few registers for things like changing voltage 36V/48V, kph/mph, wheel diameter, max Amps, speed limiter etc.
How it works: the 5 PAS levels are power levels. It starts quickly. From standstill, you only need to rotate the cranks about 20 degrees, say you push the right crank from 3 o'clock to 4 and the motor already started. The PAS signal is 24 pulses per revolution. Power is proportional to the torque.
It's a sine wave controller, you can't attach a throttle, there's no lighting output and it's very good value for money!

 

[Peter.Bridge]

There are a few registers for things like changing voltage 36V/48V, kph/mph, wheel diameter, max Amps, speed limiter etc.
How it works: the 5 PAS levels are power levels. It starts quickly. From standstill, you only need to rotate the cranks about 20 degrees, say you push the right crank from 3 o'clock to 4 and the motor already started. The PAS signal is 24 pulses per revolution. Power is proportional to the torque.
It's a sine wave controller, you can't attach a throttle, there's no lighting output and it's very good value for money!

Ordered !!

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Ordered !!

It's brilliant - few quick observations - will do a fuller review later

So on one of my bikes (Carrera Vulcan) I had the ubiquitous ebay / amazon / Ali Express 48V Bafang G020 / SWX02 (12) motor kit with cadence sensor, throttle, brake sensors and light with the bog standard speed based square wave controller (18A) and display (think it cost £250 for the kit excluding battery). I have a 48V 20Ah Hailong Samsung celled battery that I originally got with my Bafang mid drive BBS02 kit and I swap it between the two bikes

I have fitted the Woosh BBTS kit

1) the 48 tooth front cog is brilliant (I think the original largest front cog was 42t) - with the motor I didn't use the lower gears so the higher gearing is much better. Got rid of the front derailleur completely now - 8 gears are enough for me.
2) The motor with the Sine wave controller is noticeably quieter than the original
3) The motor kicks in after a fraction of a revolution of the pedals (used to take a couple of revolutions) - so it doesn't really matter if you set off in too high a gear - that's when I used to use my throttle - don't need one anymore
4) Ghost pedalling doesn't set off the motor assist - so I change down gears coming up to a junction without an unwelcome shove from the motor - this was really the only time I needed the brake sensor
5) I had 9 assist levels set on the original conversion and with the speed based assist levels there was really only 1 comfortable speed per level that was a balance between pedalling and motor. With the power based levels, these are much better - For flattish roads I can't see me using more than level 1 assist (out of 5)- even went up a little hill in level 1 today and was doing 16 mph at the top. - seems to make the most of the available power.
6) My "free" light, I just connected directly up to the 48v power (crimped into the connections). Seems fine - always on, but if that's good enough for motorbikes, then I don't see a downside

Some notes on the conversion

1) Get a proper bottom bracket tool - you need the "outside" for the cups and the "inside" for the lock nuts and getting the old bottom bracket off - (needed breaker bar !) I made a bit of a mess of my first attempt trying to use the "free" "outside" bottom bracket tool that I got with the BBS02 kit
2) Andy from Woosh's advice - don't overtighten the LHS lock nuts - they can register some "torque" when you are not pedalling, so the motor keeps running beyond the point you want it
3) read the instructions and watch the video a few times !
4) I had to extend the power cable from the battery bracket so it reached the controller (in the saddlebag). Also I crimped the connections to the controller - not XT60
5) Needed a longer chain for the 48 tooth front cog (there is a smaller one available, but the bigger front gear seems to suit the conversion)
6)edited to add - needed to set P07 to 6 (pulses per revolution ) to get accurate speedo

That's all I can think of at the minute - but if anyone has a "bog standard" conversion this is an amazing upgrade

 

[Woosh]

Thank you Peter for the writeup.
I have high hope that many of us will consider this torque sensor when they convert their next bike. I have been convinced for some time now that it's the best way to achieve the best balance between ride quality, energy efficiency, weight, cost and simplicity of wiring.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Thank you Peter for the writeup.
I have high hope that many of us will consider this torque sensor when they convert their next bike. I have been convinced for some time now that it's the best way to achieve the best balance between ride quality, energy efficiency, weight, cost and simplicity of wiring.

Yes, as far as the torque sensor specifically is concerned I like the simplicity and intuitiveness, if you are exerting pedaling force, the motor assists, if you aren't it doesn't

 

[Peter.Bridge]

Just one tweak that I made, so to recap I got rid of the front derailleur and chose the 48t front cog that came with the kit (you can choose a smaller cog). I noticed when I was using the highest gear (11t cog) that it was occasionally slipping. I wasn't sure what was doing this, if it was the new chain that I got, but eventually sorted it by loosening off the 'B' screw on the rear derailleur so it engaged more of the teeth of the rear gears. It's perfect now

So fitting the kit gave me a lot of different benefits
a) torque sensor
b) power based assist levels
c) remove front derailleur
d) higher gearing (better for an electric bike)

Bike feels perfect road bike for me now - with the suspension seat post, sit up and beg handlbars, hydraulic disc brakes, rear panniers, Zefal Mirror, bike stand and "laser" rear light - all from forum suggestions . I wouldn't swap it for any brand new bike. It's been great learning more about bikes and electric bikes maintenance from everyone here too- feel confident I can maintain it into the future.

I can't believe how powerful the bike is with the combination of torque sensor / controller with power assist levels / Bafang motor / higher gearing to make the most of my pedalling - even up modest inclines I can do the 25 km/h + 10% in level 1 . I feel like the range with my 48v 20Ah battery must be amazing.

I'd be interested in other people's experiences

 

[Peter.Bridge]

@Woosh - do you know what the power % on this for each assist level - I'm fair wooshing along, even up some smallish inclines in pas level 1 - I was doubting the speedo read out , but checked it today against gps - it is correct. Maybe the larger 48t front cog is helping my pedalling effort. It's a real difference to the speed based controller - I had to set it to 9 levels and then didn't use levels 1-4

 

[Woosh]

Talk to Andy. I am in Paris at the moment.

 

[Peter.Bridge]

OK - just been out on the bike again - done a couple of hundred miles with the new BBTS kit

I was getting a bottom bracket "squeak" on each pedal revolution - it turned out I just needed to tighten the locknut on the left hand side, it had come a bit loose

One thing I did today was a 'steep hill start' - In the past I would have used a bit of throttle to get going, but a fraction of a turn on the pedals and the motor kicked in - it really is a very good implementation of the torque sensor. It kicks in very quickly - seems instantaneous to me and the motor switches off very quickly when not applying pedalling force - at a guess less than 0.5 second delay

 

[Peter.Bridge]

I've discovered the current display option on the display. It's basically 3 amps per assist level. It does vary a little bit, depending on how hard I am pedalling (between 2.3 -3 amps according to the display)
I tried increasing parameter 14 on the display ( max current) but I don't think it makes any noticeable difference. (15a 48v is more than enough anyway)
On the flat, I can do 17mph easily in assist level 1 with a full battery (I have set the max assist limit to 15.5mph +10%)
I experimented with turning off the max assist speed and on the flat get up to around 25mph in assist level 3 (9 amps). In levels 4 and 5 you don't actually go much faster (reaching the max hub speed) on the flat but can maintain that speed up inclines.

 

[Jackytwoshoes]

I’m interested in this! Some questions:

Can you use any square taper crank and chainring or do you need to use the supplied cranks and spider?

Is the crank q- factor any wider than normal?

Does the bottom bracket sense torque from both the right and left crank arms?

Does the controller fit into the battery pack or does it have to be housed separately? (I’d be looking to buy a complete kit from woosh)

 

[Woosh]

Can you use any square taper crank and chainring or do you need to use the supplied cranks and spider?

you have to use the supplied crank and spider because they are made to action the torque sensor. The supplied chainring is made to BCD system and can be easily removed and replaced.

Is the crank q- factor any wider than normal?

I don't know the Q-factor for the supplied crankset from memory but when I get back to work, I can measure it for you.

Does the bottom bracket sense torque from both the right and left crank arms?

Yes, both.

Does the controller fit into the battery pack or does it have to be housed separately?

the controller is housed in a typical sized aluminium case, I only modify the cable length to suit a rack mounted battery but it can of course be placed inside a battery bag or plastic case mounted to the seat tube. We can of couse supply all the parts to suit your bike.
Please send pictures of your bike and bottom bracket to kits@wooshbikes.co.uk, Andy@woosh will check and make recommendations.