Wierd Pedal Assist Problem

[matthewslack]

The 'line' is not visible in your pictures. On the smaller part of the motor cable connector there is a moulded line which should only just be visible between the two arrows when the connector is fully inserted.

Does the red PAS LED always flash, even when the problem occurs?

Another thing to consider is that horrible 11 way connector. Intermittent contacts there are known to happen, and will matter.

 

[thelarkbox]

Google has failed me for a quick link to an illustrative pic or 2 but all the Julet waterproof style plug/socket connections have a raised indicating line iirc under the arrow indicating position on the male plug aspect showing how far down the lip of the socket needs to be pushed to fully engage.

These can be difficult to push fully home and the largest 9 pin connector directly to the motor is often not completely pushed home it can lead to intermittent issues as connections are made or lost.

Trust our pal/guru ~saneagle he has a quick and direct line of pertinent Q's to diagnose problems with pin point accuracy..

 

[saneagle]

I don’t understand this. Which line are we talking about? I am posting some pictures of the setup without the battery being mounted

Nicely explained here:

 

[Rapper]

Got it, Thank you for the explanation! I cannot comment on how it was before because I unplugged everything before I saw the message. However, it looks as in pictures now (adding both PAS and motor connector pictures). Should I push in more? It worked for a short round around block but hard to say how it will be on actual road on Monday. Will report back

 

[eas2lv]

As this is Swytch gen2, a very likely culprit is the mounting bracket which known to malfunction over time and very susceptible to loose connection on vibration. The intermittent power issue that you see is a telling sign. Their gen 3 mount is much better designed.

 

[Rapper]

As this is Swytch gen2, a very likely culprit is the mounting bracket which known to malfunction over time and very susceptible to loose connection on vibration. The intermittent power issue that you see is a telling sign. Their gen 3 mount is much better designed.

That actually is quite possible since the commute is along a very rough path so it’s very jerky. The battery with the mount keeps bobbing up and down throughout. I cannot find a replacement mount on swytch website though. At the moment, I am going through old posts on this site to see if someone found a way to fix it (will be glad to have pointers).. thank you for the help!!

 

[Rapper]

The 'line' is not visible in your pictures. On the smaller part of the motor cable connector there is a moulded line which should only just be visible between the two arrows when the connector is fully inserted.

Does the red PAS LED always flash, even when the problem occurs?

Another thing to consider is that horrible 11 way connector. Intermittent contacts there are known to happen, and will matter.

Sorry forgot to respond to this: the PAS keeps flashing even when problem occurs. Also which 11pin connector do you mean (the motor connector is 9 pin and handle mount is likely 12 pin so confused). Thank you for the help.

 

[eas2lv]

That actually is quite possible since the commute is along a very rough path so it’s very jerky. The battery with the mount keeps bobbing up and down throughout. I cannot find a replacement mount on swytch website though. At the moment, I am going through old posts on this site to see if someone found a way to fix it (will be glad to have pointers).. thank you for the help!!

Does it start to judder before going off indicating poor power delivery? Anyway, the picture below shows what someone did to fix poor connectivity at the mounting bracket (copied from a post on Swytch Bike Chat).

 

[Rapper]

Does it start to judder before going off indicating poor power delivery? Anyway, the picture below shows what someone did to fix poor connectivity at the mounting bracket (copied from a post on Swytch Bike Chat).
View attachment 62137

Ah this looks promising… if possible, can you share the link of the post itself so I get the whole context. Tried searching for it in vain. Thank you!

 

[matthewslack]

Sorry forgot to respond to this: the PAS keeps flashing even when problem occurs. Also which 11pin connector do you mean (the motor connector is 9 pin and handle mount is likely 12 pin so confused). Thank you for the help.

I hadn't counted, thought I remembered the handlebar connector was 11. So that one!

I have in the past put a little twist or bend into spade type connectors to force a harder contact. Might be a short term answer.

Longer term answer is to bypass the connector altogether and use normal connectors instead.

Swytch gave up on it themselves didn't they with more recent versions? It was never a good idea.

 

[saneagle]

Ah this looks promising… if possible, can you share the link of the post itself so I get the whole context. Tried searching for it in vain. Thank you!

It might be a good idea to explain which version of Swytch kit you have. As it's a new post, I was assuming one of the latest ones.

 

[Rapper]

I hadn't counted, thought I remembered the handlebar connector was 11. So that one!

I have in the past put a little twist or bend into spade type connectors to force a harder contact. Might be a short term answer.

Longer term answer is to bypass the connector altogether and use normal connectors instead.

Swytch gave up on it themselves didn't they with more recent versions? It was never a good idea.

Indeed swytch stopped making these and in gen3 the battery and display are all split up in separate units. That said, this is my first e-bike conversion and I don’t have much knowledge about connectors. I did open up the battery pack today and observed the three wires joining the 12pin connector on the inside to the controller. Now on Amazon I could find a connector (pic attached, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B09MT19TZ8/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A39XV54ATO7F2U&psc=1) which has a julet 9 pin female on one side with varied kinds of motor phase wires and hall wires the other end to join to controller. I plan to use this and two other adaptors to connect them directly within the housing and drill holes to get them to come out to join outside. I also got the wiring diagram for swytch on this site which is super helpful. Will go down this route if the bike acts up again this week even after pressing down all connectors to the line. Apprehensive since it’s not something I did before but there is always a first time Will keep posted!

 

[Rapper]

It might be a good idea to explain which version of Swytch kit you have. As it's a new post, I was assuming one of the latest ones.

Sorry my bad. I have the generation 2 version (pic attached). The battery, controller and the display is all housed within this black waterproof case with twelve slots at the back to attach to the handle mount (which has wires coming out for PAS and motor).

 

[saneagle]

Sorry my bad. I have the generation 2 version (pic attached). The battery, controller and the display is all housed within this black waterproof case with twelve slots at the back to attach to the handle mount (which has wires coming out for PAS and motor).

If you can't solve yoor problem, get a new controller and LCD(KT brand recommended); stick the controller in a tool bag either under the seat or in the frame; and run the battery wires directly from the front bag to the controller with an XT60 connector at the bag. When the battery is knackered (should be soon now), you can fit any battery you want, wherever and however you want.

 

[Rapper]

If you can't solve yoor problem, get a new controller and LCD(KT brand recommended); stick the controller in a tool bag either under the seat or in the frame; and run the battery wires directly from the front bag to the controller with an XT60 connector at the bag. When the battery is knackered (should be soon now), you can fit any battery you want, wherever and however you want.

I just visited the site topbikekit.com and there are so many options even with KT brand ( different voltages, amperes, dual voltage supported, the wattage of the motor and also whether it’s brushless). I am just starting out and really don’t know enough to make a choice. I am thinking of 22A 36V KT controller with KT LCD3 with 130D thumb throttle and normal brake sensor. Does this make sense? Will do only if the current setup doesn’t work after all. Thank you so much for your help, am on a steep learning curve!!

 

[saneagle]

I just visited the site topbikekit.com and there are so many options even with KT brand ( different voltages, amperes, dual voltage supported, the wattage of the motor and also whether it’s brushless). I am just starting out and really don’t know enough to make a choice. I am thinking of 22A 36V KT controller with KT LCD3 with 130D thumb throttle and normal brake sensor. Does this make sense? Will do only if the current setup doesn’t work after all. Thank you so much for your help, am on a steep learning curve!!

You can't use a 22A one with your battery. You need 15A 36v/48v with the block connectors. The controllers on their own don't cost much, so it's easy to upgrade to a bigger one later if you get a bigger battery later. The most your motor can do is about 20A at 36v and 15A at 48v.

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[Rapper]

I took the bike to work today and it worked perfectly fine. All I did since changing the pedal sensor and magnetic disc is making sure that the motor julet connector is pushed till the line. Thank you so much @saneagle for the suggestion. Also thanks to all for sharing your know-how. Now if something were to go wrong, I’m much better prepared.