Who's got the rear Bafang BPM 350w or 500w kit from BMSBATTERY?
- Thread starter Fordulike
- Start date
Several of us have BPM motors but i am not sure if they bought the complete kit. My hub came from evassemble but i think Dav8h gets his from BMSBattery. I have bought a KU93 and a KU123 controller both from BMSBattery. What is it you need to know?
Thanks wurly.
What's the build quality of the wheel like?
I realise that spokes usually require tweaking as they are machine made, but if I tensioned the wheel perfectly, would the quality be good enough for off road riding? Rough dirt tracks, not extreme mountain biking.
I'm guessing that the 500w controller they supply with the kit is the KU123. What current is it rated at?
Lastly, they have the 36v 500w and the 48v 500w both available in 201RPM and 398RPM versions.
Would this mean that they supply a different motor code with each version, to keep the RPM the same?
What's the build quality of the wheel like?
I realise that spokes usually require tweaking as they are machine made, but if I tensioned the wheel perfectly, would the quality be good enough for off road riding? Rough dirt tracks, not extreme mountain biking.
I'm guessing that the 500w controller they supply with the kit is the KU123. What current is it rated at?
Lastly, they have the 36v 500w and the 48v 500w both available in 201RPM and 398RPM versions.
Would this mean that they supply a different motor code with each version, to keep the RPM the same?
I would just buy the hub and get one of the wheel builders on here to build it for you. Cost of shipping a wheel from China will be a lot more than just a hub.
The user catsnapper has a excellent reputation on here for building a good wheel
Regards
Jerry
The user catsnapper has a excellent reputation on here for building a good wheel
Regards
Jerry
Last edited:
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I have the rear motor and I've done about 3000 miles with it. It's now very free and quiet - queter than the 250w motors.
The wheel is ok, but I had to tighten the spokes when i got it. Haven't touched them since.
Buy the whole kit. If you have any problems, you can always get it rebuilt later. It'll save you lots of messing about and it's nearly the same price. If the KU 123 controller comes in the kit, ask them to change it gor the KU93 (or KU92 or whatever it is). The KU93 is too powerful unless that's what you want.
While you're ordering get a couple of spare throttles, half a dozen 3 speed switches and a couple of spare pedal sensors while they're cheap.
The wheel is ok, but I had to tighten the spokes when i got it. Haven't touched them since.
Buy the whole kit. If you have any problems, you can always get it rebuilt later. It'll save you lots of messing about and it's nearly the same price. If the KU 123 controller comes in the kit, ask them to change it gor the KU93 (or KU92 or whatever it is). The KU93 is too powerful unless that's what you want.
While you're ordering get a couple of spare throttles, half a dozen 3 speed switches and a couple of spare pedal sensors while they're cheap.
They are both powerful, one is a 9fet the other a 12fet. They both have speed switch settings to reduce power and speed.
Getting a few spare throttles, cut out brakes and pedal sensors etc is good advice, given they are cheap and you are paying shipping for the hub anyway.
Regards
Jerry
Regards
Jerry
I have not ordered from BMSBattery but in my latest order from china they put the bits in the same box as the motors.
Regards
Jerry
Regards
Jerry
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
The ku123 gives about 40 amps and the ku93 25 amps.
They pack all the small items in the box so there's no extra postage, so a pedal sensor's about 75p.
The 36v 201 rpm motor is code 15.
The 48v 393 rmp is code11
The 36v 393 rpm is code 8
I guess the 48v one with 36v should give about 300rpm.
They pack all the small items in the box so there's no extra postage, so a pedal sensor's about 75p.
The 36v 201 rpm motor is code 15.
The 48v 393 rmp is code11
The 36v 393 rpm is code 8
I guess the 48v one with 36v should give about 300rpm.
Great, at least there's less chance of the accessories getting lost in the post, if sent separately.
Greater chance of losing the whole lot though
Another question for the techies amongst you.
The KU123 controller has a power supply plug similar to my E-crazyman controller.
3 wires, a large negative, a large positive and a smaller postive leading to 3 separate sockets in one automotive type plug.
The smaller positive wire needs to be shorted to the larger positive, for the controller to become active.
Obviously designed to facilitate a handy ON/OFF switch to power down.
Does anyone know if powering down the controller in this way, actually isolates the battery too?
Greater chance of losing the whole lot though
Another question for the techies amongst you.
The KU123 controller has a power supply plug similar to my E-crazyman controller.
3 wires, a large negative, a large positive and a smaller postive leading to 3 separate sockets in one automotive type plug.
The smaller positive wire needs to be shorted to the larger positive, for the controller to become active.
Obviously designed to facilitate a handy ON/OFF switch to power down.
Does anyone know if powering down the controller in this way, actually isolates the battery too?
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
It doesn'tGreat, at least there's less chance of the accessories getting lost in the post, if sent separately.
Greater chance of losing the whole lot though
Another question for the techies amongst you.
The KU123 controller has a power supply plug similar to my E-crazyman controller.
3 wires, a large negative, a large positive and a smaller postive leading to 3 separate sockets in one automotive type plug.
The smaller positive wire needs to be shorted to the larger positive, for the controller to become active.
Obviously designed to facilitate a handy ON/OFF switch to power down.
Does anyone know if powering down the controller in this way, actually isolates the battery too?
I have two kits with BPM 350w motors and KU120 controllers. For me and the Mrs. I had catsnapper supply the kits as in my opinion his wheel building is far superior to anything from BMS Battery. I would just order the motor, controller etc and ask Alan (Catsnapper) to build the wheel. Done about 200 miles on each bike so far and had no problems with loose spokes etc.
I did try KU93 controller on each bike but we did not like the full on pedelec function so now back to using KU120.
Hope this helps.
I did try KU93 controller on each bike but we did not like the full on pedelec function so now back to using KU120.
Hope this helps.
I brought a kit about year ago.
It was a 36v 350w rear bpm motor code 12. (20mph in a 24inch wheel).
I had it with the 9fet controller. At the time that was 20amp which I later shunt modded a little for a bit more umph.
They where a really good match and ran it on my standard 36v 10amphr 18650 battery. Until I sold that battery and swapped to rc lipo.
The motor has been pretty good. I've had ups and downs with it. The first couple of thousand miles trouble free. Though winter it destroyed bearings from me using it daily in the rain. The clutch sometimes locks. And it's alot noises now days. But the thing just keeps going even though it's took a pasting. I've definitely got my money's worth out of it. It's a solid motor compared to the little ones and worth the extra kilo in weight.
Mine also destroyed the wheel it was built in. I kept the rim but got cat snapper to send me 40 new dr swiss spokes and laced it myself. The wheel has done a few more 1000 miles of road abuse and it's still going strong.
I'm happy with it. It could be better but for the price last year it was peanuts.
It was a 36v 350w rear bpm motor code 12. (20mph in a 24inch wheel).
I had it with the 9fet controller. At the time that was 20amp which I later shunt modded a little for a bit more umph.
They where a really good match and ran it on my standard 36v 10amphr 18650 battery. Until I sold that battery and swapped to rc lipo.
The motor has been pretty good. I've had ups and downs with it. The first couple of thousand miles trouble free. Though winter it destroyed bearings from me using it daily in the rain. The clutch sometimes locks. And it's alot noises now days. But the thing just keeps going even though it's took a pasting. I've definitely got my money's worth out of it. It's a solid motor compared to the little ones and worth the extra kilo in weight.
Mine also destroyed the wheel it was built in. I kept the rim but got cat snapper to send me 40 new dr swiss spokes and laced it myself. The wheel has done a few more 1000 miles of road abuse and it's still going strong.
I'm happy with it. It could be better but for the price last year it was peanuts.
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