Which Hybrid would you recommend?

I've got a price range of around 2-3k and am specifically looking at these guys due to their warranty on tuned bikes.

 

These are the models which seem the best, but wanted to get any advice if some of these have known issues?

 

https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/products/electric-bike-cube-touring-hybrid-exc-625-2024-crossbar?variant=43667188121838

 

https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/products/electric-bike-cube-nuride-hybrid-performance-allroad-625-2024-crossbar?variant=43667170394350

 

https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/products/electric-bike-haibike-trekking-3-crossbar-2024?variant=43588512874734

 

https://www.e-bikeshop.co.uk/products/electric-bike-moustache-samedi-28-5-2023-crossbar?variant=42482865307886

 

Thanks

problem with these newer bikes is yes you can dongle them but to get them going 30mph will need a much bigger front chain ring and as you will find most wont let you fit 2-3t more if that or you have to push out the chain ring with spacers that can kill the chain line.

 

a normal size chain ring on my bike would be 52t and 10 at rear and can easy hit 35mph.

 

but doing this will half the range esp if you hammer it at 120rpm at the cranks as what you will need for full power but if you cant gear it for that sort of speed yo will just spin out.

 

https://reddragonebikes.co.uk/shop/

 

a bbshd with a 20ah batt would be a cheaper faster option that can be easily fixed have a throttle option and can set the motor up with the programming cable.

 

i wont look as nice but at 30a in the controller drops my a$$ but can be seen to have some problems with some frames like Unscheduled Disassembly

Edited April 2, 20242 yr by soundwave

problem with these newer bikes is yes you can dongle them but to get them going 30mph will need a much bigger front chain ring and as you will find most wont let you fit 2-3t more if that or you have to push out the chain ring with spacers that can kill the chain line.

 

a normal size chain ring on my bike would be 52t and 10 at rear and can easy hit 35mph.

 

but doing this will half the range esp if you hammer it at 120rpm at the cranks as what you will need for full power but if you cant gear it for that sort of speed yo will just spin out.

 

https://reddragonebikes.co.uk/shop/

 

a bbshd with a 20ah batt would be a cheaper faster option that can be easily fixed have a throttle option and can set the motor up with the programming cable.

 

i wont look as nice but at 30a in the controller drops my a$$

I'm not looking for extreme speed, somewhere around 20mph has been my speed on my now stolen rear hub whoosh conversion which I've found quite adequate for my work commute.

if you buy one of those bikes with a dongle it can never be updated any update could brick the dongle even a firmware update to the display.

 

also the batts cost a fortune and can bus locked the new smart batts cant be recelled yet and out of warranty peter is ur only hope.

 

https://www.ebikemotorcentre.com/

If you are using to commute, I would say none of the above.

They are all locked in systems. If anything goes amiss with the electrics you are reliant on the dealer you bought it from because no one else will touch it.

They are all a high priced purchases with obvious branding on them making then a theif magnet.

A hub motor will give you less transmission wear and more reliability. Did you ever have an issue with your last one?

A bike made up from generic parts, user obtainable and replaceable, will be easier to keep on the road and get you to work.

Why not rat bike it? Convert something that has all good gear on it but looks like carp. Then the theif will go for the Haibike next to it.

My choice would be a tsdz8 kit on a full sus donor bike.

If you buy one of those bikes, you'll be locked to the dealer for servicing. One other thing to bear in mind is that the number of illegal bikes seized by the police is doubling every year. It's still low, but it could increase in the future, which would mean that it would always be on your mind.

 

You know how to convert, so why not do another one, which would be cheaper. here's a seecret: If you get a KT controller and set the speed to 15.5mph, you can then reset the speed to whatever you want after switching on but don't save it in the settings, the controller will use the new speed limit until you switch off. when you switch on again, it reverts to the saved 15.5 mph limit. In other words, speaking hypothetically, if you had a journey, where you wanted to go a bit faster, you switch on, reset the speed limit, and if there is a chance that somebody wanted to check. You just switch off. When you switch on to check, it would be 15.5 mph. I can imagine that some people would find that quite convenient.

 

Also, with a KT controller, you can have a legal throttle, which is also very useful. You can set it to 4mph without pedalling plus any speed with pedalling. It can be used as an instant power booster when you get a short hill or want to dash around a roundabout and things like that. Soon throttles will be legal, so you can reset to fully independent when the time comes.

Thanks for those replies! My last bike was a GT Zaskar with a rear hub conversion from Woosh that did really well other than not having great mud guards so would always get a water spat up in my face when the roads were wet and this really annoyed me. Unfortunately it got stolen over the weekend and I'm thinking it makes sense to use the cycle to work tax scheme to go for something a bit more pricey and comfortable although I'm sure there is more risk of the mid drive having issues than the rear hub which never gave me any issues and is much easier to ride above 15mph on.

From my point of view, mid drives are just as reliable as hubs.

From my point of view, mid drives are just as reliable as hubs.

However for decent off road mid drives are MUCH better all round