Which bike to to 25-30mph?

Hi all

I recently purchased a Cyclamatic C1 [which was stolen after a few days :-( ] and I am looking to buy a new one. Are there any bikes that can go faster (25-30mph) for under 1000 GBP? Pedalease is selling one which is either 1000w or 1500w for 700-800 pounds? What do you think?

Thanks

Hi all

 

I recently purchased a Cyclamatic C1 [which was stolen after a few days :-( ] and I am looking to buy a new one. Are there any bikes that can go faster (25-30mph) for under 1000 GBP? Pedalease is selling this one which is either 1000w or 1500w for 700-800 pounds? What do you think?

 

Thanks

Looks good and will go the speed you're looking for. Big step up in speed and power of the Cyclamatic, so be careful, but go for it

Get the Samsung 29E or Panasonic/Sanyo battery pack. Steer clear of the Samsung 26FM.

Edited February 21, 20179 yr by Fordulike

You can make the Cyclamatic go pretty well. It's £500 for the bike. Sell the battery on Ebay for £100 or more and buy an equivalent 48v one from Eclipse Bikes.

http://www.eclipsebikes.com/hailong-12ah-lithium-frame-battery-samsung-cells-p-1121.html

Sell the controller too to get another tenner. That means you paid max £390 for the bike with the motor. Then change the controller to a 48v 17 amp one. It would then have about 60% more power and should have a top speed in the mid 20s mph. This controller with a LCD will give you a much better control system too:

http://www.pswpower.com/peng/iview.asp?KeyID=dtpic-2016-3F-39N8.50CQE

Now you've spent an additional £380, which brings you to £770 and leaves £40 for a nice hydraulic front brake and £65 for a 48 tooth Shimano Hollowtech M590 crankset.

You'll then have a nice bike capable of relaxed pedalling over 20 mph for £875.

Thanks for the very informative reply. Sounds complicated though and I am afraid I'll mess it up. One question, don't I need a more powerful motor to go faster?

Dave does make it sound easier than it is, but he's been tinkering with electric bikes for a long long time.

If you are not confident with electrics and mechanics, then buy a ready built bike.

Start upgrading the Cyclamatic to higher power and be prepared for motor problems at some stage. Usually one way clutch (bearing) failure or nylon cog breakage.

My old Cyclamatic went 31 mph with its original 24v motor when I ran it at 44v and 17 amps. Motors are generally under-rated, though you can damage any one by running it too slow at maximum power. As long as you keep the speed up, they can handle a lot of power.

The modern controllers, like the one I linked above use current control. That means that each level on the display controls the amount of power going to the motor, so you can turn the power up or down as you want.

If you want to use your bike like a motorbike to go 30 mph without pedalling, then you need a motorbike. 20 to 25 mph is feasible in a bicycle if you pedal quite hard., otherwise, if you go fast, the battery will go down quickly.

The Cyclotricity Stealth 1000W nearly meets your requirements. it can cruise in the mid 20s with very little effort from you, but don't expect to do more than 10 miles and expect to get a new battery before the year's up.

Pedalease do one with a 17AH battery, which is much more suitable than the Cyclotricity one for £825, which looks good value.

Don't forget that you'll have trouble trying to convice anyone that these bikes are legal. Nobody would know that your Cyclamatic had been modified.

Be wary

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/www.pedalease.co.uk

Jeez! It looks like we have to put Pedalease on our blacklist. The two good reviews don't ring true. I suspect they're from stooges.

Have any forum members any experience of Pedalease?

[uSER=4366]@d8veh[/uSER].

I wasn't going to post on this thread but I would invite you to put yourself in the place of the suppliers for a minute.

What would they think if customers are shown how to overvolt their bikes?

[uSER=4366]@d8veh[/uSER].

I wasn't going to post on this thread but I would invite you to put yourself in the place of the suppliers for a minute.

What would they think if customers are shown how to overvolt their bikes?

It might give them ideas of how to sell bikes like the customers want, like when I suggest that you increase the current of your controllers from 14 to 20 amps all those years ago. How many extra bikes have you sold because of that? It was only the fact that guys like us tested it all out and showed that it was OK, that allows changes like that for everybody's benefit.

Looks good and will go the speed you're looking for. Big step up in speed and power of the Cyclamatic, so be careful, but go for it

 

Get the Samsung 29E or Panasonic/Sanyo battery pack. Steer clear of the Samsung 26FM.

I just bought the Giant Road E+1 which is governed to 15.6 mph but 26mph in the USA and much faster in Canada. But the UK spec means it only provides assistance to 15.6mph. I recorder 44mph downhill this morning

If I wanted assistance all the way up to 44mph then I could buy this

https://www.ebiketuning.com/greenped.html

Specifically for the Yahmaha SynchDrive Sport motor. But it would be illegal on the public roads and I am not sure I need to enhance what is already blistering performance. I still want an aerobic workout from my bike and just need something to flatten the hills. I already have a BMW convertible and a motorbike. The Giant allows me to join the club cyclists and still be part of the pack after 50 miles.

Edited July 30, 20178 yr by preciseposter

I just bought the Giant Road E+1 which is governed to 15.6 mph but 26mph in the USA and much faster in Canada. But the UK spec means it only provides assistance to 15.6mph. I recorder 44mph downhill this morning

 

If I wanted assistance all the way up to 44mph then I could buy this

 

https://www.ebiketuning.com/greenped.html

 

Specifically for the Yahmaha SynchDrive Sport motor. But it would be illegal on the public roads and I am not sure I need to enhance what is already blistering performance. I still want an aerobic workout from my bike and just need something to flatten the hills. I already have a BMW convertible and a motorbike. The Giant allows me to join the club cyclists and still be part of the pack after 50 miles.

if you dongle it you will half the range of the batt and going 44mph will drain it even faster so half it again you wont be doing no 50 mile rides if you sustain hi speed or take another batt with you.

if you dongle it you will half the range of the batt and going 44mph will drain it even faster so half it again you wont be doing no 50 mile rides if you sustain hi speed or take another batt with you.

Carrying a spare battery in a rucksack, probably not the best option...lol

Carrying a spare battery in a rucksack, probably not the best option...lol

so is wearing a push bike helmet going that fast

That was my point. I bought the Giant Road bike for the 500Wh battery, 80Nm of torque and the unassisted performance. I want range and not speed.

Thanks for the replies

Was that 44mph downhill with motor running and you pedalling?

I ask because I have a very long hill where I cycle and I reached 42mph near the end of it without using pedals or motor.

It was without pedals or motor. The motor on my e-road bike is governed to Euro standards so at the bottom of the hill I was free-wheeling. I have done it on every bike I have owned and been in the mid forties and once in a high gear managed 53. It is a 30 limit and there is a speed camera at the bottom of the hill

I tried the Giant on "power" setting for the first time this morning climbing a really steep hill. My cycling buddy is 24 years younger on the BMC Gran Fondo 01 and I left him standing. Really enjoying owning this bike.

Are the rules on speed for cars AND bikes or can a cyclist plead innocence by claiming they didn't have a speedometer fitted thus didn't know the speed, perhaps claim they were freewheeling downhill?

Years ago a friend of mine was stopped for doing 40mph in a 30mph limit on his bike, received points on his car licence and a fine for 'Cycling Furiously' which was apparantly the only applicable charge available at the time. I have a feeling that the law has been updated to allow cyclists to be charged with 'travelling in excess of the speed limit' the same as motorised vehicles now though.

"wanton and furious cycling" only applies if an injury is suffered. And by injury, the law means serious injury or death as a direct result of the cyclists actions. Your friend should have challenged the accusation. "National" speed limits only apply to "motor" vehicles. Not to non-electric pedal cycles.

Local bylaws mean that there is an 8mph speed limit on Hampstead Heath and a 20mph speed limit in Richmond Park.

We are all weary of the tiresome personal claim TV adverts by Slater & Gordon but they summarise cycling law and speed as well as anyone

https://www.slatergordon.co.uk/media-centre/blog/2015/06/can-cyclists-break-the-speed-limit-or-does-the-law-only-apply-to-motorists/

Incidentally, if I was doing 8mph I would probably fall off

Years ago a friend of mine was stopped for doing 40mph in a 30mph limit on his bike, received points on his car licence and a fine for 'Cycling Furiously' which was apparantly the only applicable charge available at the time. I have a feeling that the law has been updated to allow cyclists to be charged with 'travelling in excess of the speed limit' the same as motorised vehicles now though.

He was having you on. There's only ever been one person convicted of furious cycling, and that was in 1879. There's two people that were convicted of causing death by furious cycling, where they rode on the pavement at speed and killed someone. They were both jailed.

Neither is it possible to get points on your driving licence from a cycling offence, though you can get banned from driving in exceptional circumstances.

You can get points on your licence for riding an electric bike if you commit an offence related to driving with alcohol or drugs in you.

I would like to see "on-the-spot" fines introduced whereby police officers could take out a credit card reader and debit £30 from the account of anyone who rides on the pavements. Failure to pay would result in the confiscation of the bike and the cyclist would be told they need to pay £60 cash when they collect the bike. National publicity of this law and some more "pub talk" would put an end to pavement cycling in a month.

And if my motorbike insurance costs £68 a year why should compulsory bike insurance of say £25 to £35 a year trouble me.