Volt Pulse X no power help

[Sussexlad]

Are you getting battery voltage at the bottom of the battery where it connects to the bike?

Only 2v on the bottom of the battery however apparently this is normal ??

 

[davell]

Mine reads full voltage at the bottom (between two of the pins). There are 4 pins but only two are used. Cant remember which two though.

 

[Sussexlad]

Mine reads full voltage at the bottom (between two of the pins). There are 4 pins but only two are used. Cant remember which two though.

One shows + and the other - so I assume those are the two used for a reading however when I’m home later I will try the others
Thanks for the info

 

[davell]

If you take the side plate off just below the battery you can easily see which two are used. If you aren’t getting 40ish volts on these pins with the battery turned on then the issue is likely within the battery. There are various connections in this chamber that are probably worth checking. There is a detachable connector for the battery power to the controller which may be worth checking if the battery itself appears to be ok.

 

[Sussexlad]

If you take the side plate off just below the battery you can easily see which two are used. If you aren’t getting 40ish volts on these pins with the battery turned on then the issue is likely within the battery. There are various connections in this chamber that are probably worth checking. There is a detachable connector for the battery power to the controller which may be worth checking if the battery itself appears to be ok.

Cheers for that information definitely a job to do when. I get back from work later

 

[Sussexlad]

I have removed the bottom plate and base plate to find this
I was hoping perhaps the fuse had blown however visually it looks good
Having bypassed this and check the meter it’s still showing 2V
Not sure if this is normal and it only draws power when required ?
What’s the next step suggested ?
thanks in advance

 

[Sussexlad]

I’ve reached as far as I can go with this
It don’t he’ll not knowing what colours the Leds should be either apparently one being red is incorrect according to the chap above who said he’s only show green
I’ve taken the battery apart only to find it fully sealed with cellophane I’m not wanting to take that part but it seems a pretty simple connection
My idea is the lcd board is at fault at the top and is somehow preventing the relevant power getting to the bottom pins however again according to someone else that’s not relevant but then someone also states he’s battery does give out the full power when tested on a meter which confuses me further
I’m not sure if any bike shops repair or test battery’s and I assume they would only want to sell me a new one anyway ?
Below is what’s inside the battery I don’t see any plates to test as suggested above
I’m happy to carry on but without any solid ideas on what the readings should show I’m prehaps wasting everyone’s time
I’ve messaged bolt hoping they can elaborate further with the red Led

 

[davell]

Looks from the photo that the outer two terminals are connected to the battery. It should be full battery voltage between the two outer terminals. If it isn’t then the fault is with the battery. Measure directly on the bottom of the battery.

 

[vfr400]

Still showing one red light and three green which I assume is some sort of fault code prehaps ?

That shows that your battery is good. As the battery goes down, one green light goes out, then the next, then the next, leaving the red light to show that it's low.

The connector you showed in the photo is the one to pull. If you're lucky, it might reset the BMS.

If you still have no voltage on the output terminals, there are now two possibilities:
1. The path between the BMS and the terminals is interrupted. that could be a blown fuse, dry solder or broken solder joint, or a faulty connection. You can find that by putting your red probe on red pin of the red deans connector that you probed before, then probe the black wire where it comes from the cell-pack to the BMS (marked B-), then where it leaves the BMS (marked P-), then on the output terminal. Then, put your black probe on the black pin in the red Deans connector and use the red probe to check where the red output wire attaches to the BMS (marked P+, C+ or B+ or any combination), then the output terminal. You'll have to scrape a bit of that gum off to make a good contact with the probe.
2. The BMS has detected a fault and switched off the output, but still allows charging. This is the most likely fault which would be confirmed when you see from the tests above that You get voltage on the thick wire coming into the BMS (B-), but not the one going out (P-).

If (2.) above is confirmed, then you have to check the voltages on the multi-pin connector. You put pull the connector off, put your black probe on the black wire in the red Deans connector, then probe each pin in the connector, starting at one end and working to the other. Write down each value and post here. In the side of the connector, you will see slots with silver contacts in. That's where you probe rather than the pins unless you have very thin probes.

 

[Sussexlad]

Looks from the photo that the outer two terminals are connected to the battery. It should be full battery voltage between the two outer terminals. If it isn’t then the fault is with the battery. Measure directly on the bottom of the battery.

I’ve done that and it’s only showing 2V it does flicker through though at first 27 and the. Very fast down to 2V

 

[Sussexlad]

That shows that your battery is good. As the battery goes down, one green light goes out, then the next, then the next, leaving the red light to show that it's low.

The connector you showed in the photo is the one to pull. If you're lucky, it might reset the BMS.

If you still have no voltage on the output terminals, there are now two possibilities:
1. The path between the BMS and the terminals is interrupted. that could be a blown fuse, dry solder or broken solder joint, or a faulty connection. You can find that by putting your red probe on red pin of the red deans connector that you probed before, then probe the black wire where it comes from the cell-pack to the BMS (marked B-), then where it leaves the BMS (marked P-), then on the output terminal. Then, put your black probe on the black pin in the red Deans connector and use the red probe to check where the red output wire attaches to the BMS (marked P+, C+ or B+ or any combination), then the output terminal. You'll have to scrape a bit of that gum off to make a good contact with the probe.
2. The BMS has detected a fault and switched off the output, but still allows charging. This is the most likely fault which would be confirmed when you see from the tests above that You get voltage on the thick wire coming into the BMS (B-), but not the one going out (P-).

If (2.) above is confirmed, then you have to check the voltages on the multi-pin connector. You put pull the connector off, put your black probe on the black wire in the red Deans connector, then probe each pin in the connector, starting at one end and working to the other. Write down each value and post here. In the side of the connector, you will see slots with silver contacts in. That's where you probe rather than the pins unless you have very thin probes.

Thanks for the advice sounds complicated not sure if my problems are that small I’ll come back to it tomorrow after work with a fresh mind as it’s been a long day many everyone for the advice I don’t want to quit but my electronic knowledge is very basic

 

[Sussexlad]

I have disconnected the white connector the one with all the wires it’s made no difference unfortunately

 

[Sussexlad]

I’m not sure what the power button does except for turning on the led lights which show the bars of power
When I’ve put the meter on the bottom of the battery and turned the power on nothings changed the voltage stays at 2.6V I will try the same with the top of the battery tomorrow
And any other suggestions posted above or tonight
Appreciate everyone’s help so far and advice
If anyone else can put a meter to the bottom of their battery if they have this model (see photos above ) and let me know if theirs also shows 2V

 

[vfr400]

I've told you how to check the battery in a way that will reveal the source of the problem. It's not complicated to do.

 

[Sussexlad]

I've told you how to check the battery in a way that will reveal the source of the problem. It's not complicated to do.

Thanks I will take a look later after work

 

[Sussexlad]

Took it to a dealer (not the best idea but no other shops wanted to know )
Can’t justify that price for repair
Shall I get a second opinion?
Failing that I’ll sell it anyone interested ?
thanks for everyone’s advice

 

[vfr400]

Took it to a dealer (not the best idea but no other shops wanted to know )
Can’t justify that price for repair
Shall I get a second opinion?
Failing that I’ll sell it anyone interested ?
thanks for everyone’s advice

In other words, they don't know how to test an ebike and diagnose the problem. They figure that if they change every single electrical item, it might come to life. It would be a shame if after all that it was the PAS and your £895 wouldn't fix it.

 

[Sussexlad]

In other words, they don't know how to test an ebike and diagnose the problem. They figure that if they change every single electrical item, it might come to life. It would be a shame if after all that it was the PAS and your £895 wouldn't fix it.

not sure what I can do it’s outside my area of expertise in an idea world they could put a new battery on and see if that resolved the issue but apparently they don’t stock them even though they are a dealer
I could try elsewhere I guess but most shops don’t touch them
Have to sell it and hope for my money back £350’

 

[vfr400]

How can anybody help if you hide where you are?

 

[Sussexlad]

Sorry new to this forum was not aware my location was hidden
I’m Brighton East Sussex