I bought a control panel and controller together so they should work, having read all the previous posts it seems the original Viking MT Tobin controller is not available and has to be replaced with one of these http://www.topbikekit.com/10s13s14s-36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html which means changing everything else to match
Viking MT Tobin controller problem
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OK, it should work then. The only problem is that the LED control panel doesn't give access to all the settings you need. You might have the wrong PAS signal pattern selected or it could be switched off altogether. There's no way of knowing without the LCD.
Hi I bought this display http://www.topbikekit.com/ktled900s-display-meter-24v36v48v-for-electric-bicycle-p-691.html
I have to say that as a Motorcycle mechanic with 40 years experience with Honda, Ducati, Triumph and Harley certificates it has been a challenge to try and fix my mates Viking MT Tobin with nothing but advice from forums and videos on youtube
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These controllers have loads of settings in them for everything. If you don't set them right, things don't work. You can only change them with an LCD. This will explain about the settings:
Having purchased these
http://www.topbikekit.com/10s13s14s-36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html
The display switched on and gave me battery level and I could adjust the power level but when I pedal I got no speed display or power assist I am thinking of buying this PAS to finish the job
The original PAS looks like this one
http://www.topbikekit.com/10s13s14s-36v48v-6mosfets-sine-wave-controller-for-hailong-case-52pcs-cells-p-695.html
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The display switched on and gave me battery level and I could adjust the power level but when I pedal I got no speed display or power assist I am thinking of buying this PAS to finish the job
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The original PAS looks like this one
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If you want to buy anything, get an LCD. If your PAS is switched off in the settings, an LCD is the only thing that will help you.
There is probably some way into the settings using your 900S. Look at this manual and see if the method works on yours.
The 900s is quoted as having with multi-function parameter self-setting function, it seems very hard to find any useful info, surely the Hailong 1 controller has a default PAS that if I fit to the bike it will work ? at the moment I have 8 pole PAS on the right crank so I thought if I fit the KT-V12L to the left crank it would be easier and be configured to work with the Hailong 1 controller, are you sure the parameters arent just to alter the display and not alter the function of the controller
When you buy from Chinese re-sellers, their stock is often surplus parts that are left over after a production run of OEM bikes, so they're set-up specifically for those bikes. Every time someone buys one, they seem to be setup differently. With the LCD, you can reset it any way you want.
Before getting a LCD, see if you can check that your PAS is actually working. it's very tricky with those integrated controllers because you need a battery supply connected. If you can get it connected to some battery voltage while open, switch on and measure between where the PAS signal wire is soldered and ground, then turn the pedals to see if it pulses with 5v.
Before getting a LCD, see if you can check that your PAS is actually working. it's very tricky with those integrated controllers because you need a battery supply connected. If you can get it connected to some battery voltage while open, switch on and measure between where the PAS signal wire is soldered and ground, then turn the pedals to see if it pulses with 5v.
I will try to test the PAS, the controller should work with 8 pole PAS, so it may be faulty, its the only part I haven't changed why aren't there any instructions to adjust controller parameters only to adjust display parameters
I also note that the KT-V12L PAS states that you need to adjust the parameter to 6 or 7 but with the 8 pole PAS it makes no mention of adjusting parameters so I assumed it was just plug and play. Have you ever worked on a bike with one of these controllers ?
Yes.
Another potential problem you might have is the motor connection sequence, which is difficult to test without a throttle, but here's how you can do it. On the throttle connector, try touching the red to the signal wire, which is the equivalent of a full throttle signal. The wheel should spin. If it doesn't, listen out for a tick, hum or knock noise, or see if the motor kicks or does anything else weird. If it does any of that, it's a sign that the motor has a faulty connection, has the wrong connection sequence or is faulty itself. If it spins nicely, you know you only have to sort out the PAS.
A rather inconclusive test, a few times the wheel moved slowly for about 1 second and then stopped but it was very intermittent, until eventually I could no longer get the wheel to move no matter how many times I joined the 2 wires together. I would say after trying it about 20 times it only jerked about 6 and now I cant get it to do it again.
There are three phase wires and three hall signal wires. That makes 36 combinations, of which three will give the correct forward motion and three backwards.
With sealed connectors, the only way to test the combinations is to cut the motor wire and rejoin all the conductors in the different sequences, which is a lot of work.
Before trying the different combinations, you need to eliminate the possibilities that a hall sensor is faulty by doing a hall sensor test, and that the cable isn't faulty or damaged. Think back to how your system failed. They don't break by themselves while parked in the garage. The circumstances of its failure will give you a clue where to look.
Likewise, testing hall sensors with sealed connectors is tricky. You can sometimes get at the solder joints on the controller pcb to test.
Too late now, but for anybody else that reads, it's always better to get a controller with block connectors and stick it in a bag under the saddle. All testing then becomes dead easy. It's not as neat as the integrated battery controllers, but a heck of a lot more convenient when things don't work.
With sealed connectors, the only way to test the combinations is to cut the motor wire and rejoin all the conductors in the different sequences, which is a lot of work.
Before trying the different combinations, you need to eliminate the possibilities that a hall sensor is faulty by doing a hall sensor test, and that the cable isn't faulty or damaged. Think back to how your system failed. They don't break by themselves while parked in the garage. The circumstances of its failure will give you a clue where to look.
Likewise, testing hall sensors with sealed connectors is tricky. You can sometimes get at the solder joints on the controller pcb to test.
Too late now, but for anybody else that reads, it's always better to get a controller with block connectors and stick it in a bag under the saddle. All testing then becomes dead easy. It's not as neat as the integrated battery controllers, but a heck of a lot more convenient when things don't work.
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Would this be the right place to seek help with my Viking Tobin? I seem to be having an issue that is getting worse with each week, it seems not to want to wake from sleep mode from what I can tell, after a charge I will get a flicker from the display when hitting the power button and then nothing, when pressing the button on the battery itself I will get no display or power level and yet after a few hours if I try again it seems to turn on (well some of the time). Is this a common issue that I can fix or is this more a critical failure on the battery?
Has your bike display seen any rain or been left out in the rain ?
Also have you taken a voltage reading from the battery ?
Also have you taken a voltage reading from the battery ?
Took a reading of the battery and seems normal and yes it has seen a fair bit of rain and is left outside now and again but once I get it to switch on after that first bout of silly buggers it will turn on fine even after a night outside in the cold and rain. The main trouble seems to be after either I charge the battery or it's been idle for more than a few days and then it just won't switch on without a long drawn out fight with pressing and holding the power check button and power on switch on the display