Using LSW70A6G without the display
- Thread starter Alex99
- Start date
Just to double check before burning it, I have 2 controllers:Bridge the red and blue wires and bridge the two data wires, which are not red, blue or black.
Controller 1 - 36V:
Red: 36V
Black: GND
Blue: SW (or MS, depending the reading orientation )
Green: POR
so, In this one, should I bridge Red, Blue and Green (meaning the 3 together )?
Controller 2 - 24 V:
Red: 24v
Black: GND
Blue: SW (or MS, depending the reading orientation )
Green: POR
White: BK2 (I think this is the second brake port, for some reason they didnt used the first one)
so, In this one, should I bridge also Red, Blue and Green (meaning the 3 together) ?
Thank you : )
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Great !!!Just red and blue. You only short the data wires if you have a digital display. 4 wire ones are analogue. Data wires are marked Tx and Rx.
The bridge between Red and Blue turned the device ON (because the led began to blink).
Unfortunatelly the motor did not responded to the throttle : (
Same condition appears when the display is connected and turned on but the pedal assistance is off, meaning the display only shows the battery level.
I am not sure if it possible to bypas this condition using the display cables since the pedal assistance have 3 levels and I think they are sent through the Green cable on serial communication along with the reception of the battery level.
Do you know if there is another bridge I can make to have the motor resposive to the throttle ?
The green cable gives 1v for level 1, 2v for level 2, 3v for level 3 and 4v for 4mph walk assist. Every one that I tried without the control panel defaulted to level 1 pedal assist with the red and blue wires shorted, and the throttle worked normally.Great !!!
The bridge between Red and Blue turned the device ON (because the led began to blink).
Unfortunatelly the motor did not responded to the throttle : (
Same condition appears when the display is connected and turned on but the pedal assistance is off, meaning the display only shows the battery level.
I am not sure if it possible to bypas this condition using the display cables since the pedal assistance have 3 levels and I think they are sent through the Green cable on serial communication along with the reception of the battery level.
Do you know if there is another bridge I can make to have the motor resposive to the throttle ?
The first thing to check is that you have 5v between the red and black wires on the throttle, PAS and motor hall wires, then you can check the signal wires to see if they're giving the correct output: Pulsing 5v on PAS when you turn the pedals, 1v-4v on throttle when you twist it, and pulsing 5v on the three hall wires when you turn the wheel backwards.
Seems that you are completelly right, I measured the voltage in the Green cable with the display conected and it shows the levels you described.The green cable gives 1v for level 1, 2v for level 2, 3v for level 3 and 4v for 4mph walk assist. Every one that I tried without the control panel defaulted to level 1 pedal assist with the red and blue wires shorted, and the throttle worked normally.
The first thing to check is that you have 5v between the red and black wires on the throttle, PAS and motor hall wires, then you can check the signal wires to see if they're giving the correct output: Pulsing 5v on PAS when you turn the pedals, 1v-4v on throttle when you twist it, and pulsing 5v on the three hall wires when you turn the wheel backwards.
It looks like my controller stays at 0v when the controller is removed and the Red cable is bridged with the Blue.
I guess I'll have to add 2 x 1000 ohm resistors between 5v and GND to have voltage drop of 2.5v in between, applied to the POR pin (also kwon as the Green Cable.)
Unless of course you have a better idea ; ) In that case, please let me know it.
Thank you very much for your help.
If you don't get 5v between the red and black wires on the PAS or hall sensors, the controller is either not active or the 5v regulator is blown. Regulators don't cost much and are easy to replace.
You can trace what happens to the voltage from the blue wire. It goes through a big resistor to the 12v regulator. One branch of 12v goes from that to the mosfets and the other goes to the 5v regulator, so you can check what's coming in and going out of the 5v regulator. testing along that route should show where your problem lies. Normally all those components are in a line.
You can trace what happens to the voltage from the blue wire. It goes through a big resistor to the 12v regulator. One branch of 12v goes from that to the mosfets and the other goes to the 5v regulator, so you can check what's coming in and going out of the 5v regulator. testing along that route should show where your problem lies. Normally all those components are in a line.
That's the voltage on the green wire of the LED control panel. You measure it between green and any ground (black).hello guys! I have the same controller and I started the bike based on your infos. But to select the type of motor spining where you get 1V, 2V, 3V or 4V? from red wire? that voltage is measured from black to green?
Theoretically yes. I did not try it because I did't have the time but if you try, please let us know for future reference.
Dont forget to put the potentiometer between the 3 cables: red, green and black. The green cable goes in the middle pin of the potentiometer.
You probably know how to do it but in case some one else asks:
1. Turn the potentiometer to the middle setting and confirm with a ohmmeter. Do it before connecting to avoid burning risk of shortcircuit.
2. Conect the exterior pins of potentiometer to the red and black cable and confirm 2.5 v between black and the middle pin.
3. Connect the gren cable to the middle pin.
Dont forget to put the potentiometer between the 3 cables: red, green and black. The green cable goes in the middle pin of the potentiometer.
You probably know how to do it but in case some one else asks:
1. Turn the potentiometer to the middle setting and confirm with a ohmmeter. Do it before connecting to avoid burning risk of shortcircuit.
2. Conect the exterior pins of potentiometer to the red and black cable and confirm 2.5 v between black and the middle pin.
3. Connect the gren cable to the middle pin.
You need to add a resistor in series with it, otherwise when you turn the potentiometer down, it'll be a dead short across the 5v. Maybe a 1K resistor and a 5k pot should do it, or 2K and 10K pot.I do not have the control panel. Adding a potentiometer between green and red will solve the control problem?
Yes, your ideea with resistor is very good. Have you identified the send and return data wires on this device? I have opened once but I do not have the pictures now... I'm curios if I can make it work with a lcd-sw900. I do not have so many electronics knowledge and I'm new to electric bikes, but I can learn. Thanks to all!
Did someone knows what's inside throttle comand? Is there a cip or only some rezistors?
Did someone knows what's inside throttle comand? Is there a cip or only some rezistors?
Let's take a step back. There are two types of controller and control panel combinations. the one I have been describing is analogue. The signal is carried only in the green wire by the voltages I described. The other type is digital and uses two wires to transmit data (Tx and Rx). 4 wire connectors mean analogue. 5 wires can be either depending on how the lights are switched and connected.Yes, your ideea with resistor is very good. Have you identified the send and return data wires on this device? I have opened once but I do not have the pictures now... I'm curios if I can make it work with a lcd-sw900. I do not have so many electronics knowledge and I'm new to electric bikes, but I can learn. Thanks to all!
Did someone knows what's inside throttle comand? Is there a cip or only some rezistors?
You can't fit an LCD to an analogue type and you can't fit a potentiometer to a digital type.
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