Tyres

Currently using 2.1" thunderburts on the cube acid, would it make a huge difference to the speed, battery, torque etc etc if i changed to a 35/40 mm road specific tyre??? or is it best to go to my dealer and get the wheel settings changed??

 

would really like to have to sets of wheels...road and mtb

I like the Schwalbe G One gravel tyre. Good on the road but not bad on gravel. Not a serious off road tyre though.

would really like to have to sets of wheels...road and mtb

 

A really good idea, you can't have the best of both worlds in one tyre.

would really like to have to sets of wheels...road and mtb

I have an acid one and two sets of wheels / tyres, 2.25 big apples & 2.25 smart Sam's, both in the plus variety with the added protection

The apples are great on road and exelent milage, the Sam's are good off-road and TBH feel just as quick as the apples on road but I wouldn't be cornering as hard on the road with off-road tyres

 

Best of both worlds isn't cheap but it is convenient

2 prs tyres + 2 X wheel sets + 2 X brake discs + 1 rear cassette

I have an acid one and two sets of wheels / tyres, 2.25 big apples & 2.25 smart Sam's, both in the plus variety with the added protection

The apples are great on road and exelent milage, the Sam's are good off-road and TBH feel just as quick as the apples on road but I wouldn't be cornering as hard on the road with off-road tyres

 

Best of both worlds isn't cheap but it is convenient

2 prs tyres + 2 X wheel sets + 2 X brake discs + 1 rear cassette

 

Best of both worlds is easy really

 

Two bikes !

 

 

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I run two sets of wheels, only 5 minute job to swap. You can also rotate cassettes as road one tends to wear 2 gears that are used around 25mkh cutoff.

Cube sometimes use mix wheel sets, measure both hub spacings. Shimano wheels sets come with serviceable cone bearings and they are reasonably priced.

The extra rotors and cassette is not really extra cost as you are just spread wear between 2 sets of parts.

 

For road tyres Almotion 2.00-2.35 and run tubeless.

Further to my prior flippancy , I also find smart sams to be perfect for South Downs xc riding and also for road based daily commute

 

They are single best compromise I have found to date over 8 years .

 

I strive hard to find it as I hate bike maintenance and repair . I want do it all , bullet proof bikes

 

Which requires compromise of course and the art is in defining the best for you individually

 

Two sets of wheels and tyres will always be superior

 

Personally given a budget constraint id spend the money on the mtb wheels and skimp on the roadie ones. They won’t be under same stresses.

 

 

 

 

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Not me selling only 3 hours left eBay auction ice spikers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe...0-8183-4808-9e39-8b5037a3b0f7&redirect=mobile

Not all that cheap compared to the prices you can pay midsummer. Good compared to new ones.

Not me selling only 3 hours left eBay auction ice spikers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe...0-8183-4808-9e39-8b5037a3b0f7&redirect=mobile

Not all that cheap compared to the prices you can pay midsummer. Good compared to new ones.

Not lot of demand for them midsummer either.

Not lot of demand for them midsummer either.

True, that's why I paid £14 including postage for a new pair mid summer

The ability to run two sets of tires winter or summer on road or off road is a good reason to up-grade to a bottom bracket mounted motor ...not really possible on my rear hub motor ....mmmm

My Orbea Gain came with some 40mm gravel tyres which (after a spell of using and not liking Marathon Plus) I swapped to Pirelli P Zero 4s. I've just swapped them back to the original gravel tyres for the winter and it took me all of 15 minutes.

 

Maybe the Orbea hub motor rear wheel is easier to remove than others, I don't know, but aside from having to take a bit of extra care with wiring and the positioning of a space tab, it's certainly not a problem.

My Orbea Gain came with some 40mm gravel tyres which (after a spell of using and not liking Marathon Plus) I swapped to Pirelli P Zero 4s. I've just swapped them back to the original gravel tyres for the winter and it took me all of 15 minutes.

 

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I was thinking of swapping out the standard Range Cruisers for Marathon Pluses on my new bike - what didn't you like about the Marathon Pluses?

I was thinking of swapping out the standard Range Cruisers for Marathon Pluses on my new bike - what didn't you like about the Marathon Pluses?

There is a decent choice of marathon pluses including mountain bike. I think they feel a little harsh on your arse, so some people say.

I'm not a big m plus fan these days. Yes, amazing at no punctures but I find they are terrible in the wet and I commute all year round.

 

I find conti travel contact great on a hybrid and smart sams on a mtb (unless proper off road downhill when id look at nobby nic and magic marys)

 

But I've done all sorts over the South Downs over the summer with the Sams and they are great! Just not in wet or crazy speed downhill grip)

 

Still horses for courses I think. Tyres are like saddles. What suit you, your bike and your bits

 

 

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I was thinking of swapping out the standard Range Cruisers for Marathon Pluses on my new bike - what didn't you like about the Marathon Pluses?

Most of green guard rated tyres when run tubeless will give better protection than Plus while providing better ride. Tubeless tyres don't go flat with small punctures like thorns. In case of larger punctures, plug hole with inserts provided in repair kit and inflate tyre, no need to remove tyre or wheel, see youtube videos.

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by Trevormonty

I was thinking of swapping out the standard Range Cruisers for Marathon Pluses on my new bike - what didn't you like about the Marathon Pluses?

 

It was the weight really. The Marathon Plus in 32mm weighs 810grm, the Pirelli 28mm I replaced them with 250grm. Throw in whatever weight saving there was from the inner tube (probably not much) but your still talking of a weight saving of 1/2kg per wheel, and more importanly, off the rotating mass. I know I'm not really comparing like with like, but the the Pirelli are light years ahead of the Marathon in terms of feel, rider quality and effort per mile.

 

Changing the subject, I did a ride on the gravel tyres last weekend. Yuck! It felt like riding through treacle and the Pirelli's are going back on for this weekends ride. 1x pair of 40mm Kenda Flintridge gravel tyres for sale anyone?

Edited November 29, 20187 yr by Capt Sisko

Marathon Plus great for not getting punctures. I used to get around 2 per week on my cross-country commute; I forget what tyres with kevlar band. Fitted Marathon Plus 13 years ago and one is finally worn out. 3 years same commute and 10 years retired and no puncture yet. Also none on my wife's bike and our tandem, 1 on my son's; all quite a few years in.

 

However, as others say, heavy and the ride is not that pleasant. Grip not that good, sideways grip in mud (e.g. path sloping left to right) is non-existent.

I prefer balloon tyres for the comfort and, on the trike, stopping performance. All my tyres at the moment are Big Bens. Heads up on the Plus version - some have had sidewall splitting on that version. I will go tubeless when a decent 20" tubeless tyre comes to the market. I have not had a puncture in over 7000 km.

 

Damn now I've done it...

I prefer balloon tyres for the comfort and, on the trike, stopping performance. All my tyres at the moment are Big Bens. Heads up on the Plus version - some have had sidewall splitting on that version. I will go tubeless when a decent 20" tubeless tyre comes to the market. I have not had a puncture in over 7000 km.

 

Damn now I've done it...

 

I have been using an old Marin Muirhead 1993 MTB for the last 25 years, pottering around on cycle routes and riverbanks mainly. Zero punctures. As a result I haven't had to fix one since I was a kid and wouldn't have a clue what to do. I went on a 30km ride with a cycle club last year and 3 of them got punctures - I was astonished.

 

Whatever tyre I put on is likely to be more comfortable and have less roll-resistance than those on my 1993 Marin - I just want one that definitely isn't going to strand me 50 miles from home...

I have been using an old Marin Muirhead 1993 MTB for the last 25 years, pottering around on cycle routes and riverbanks mainly. Zero punctures. As a result I haven't had to fix one since I was a kid and wouldn't have a clue what to do. I went on a 30km ride with a cycle club last year and 3 of them got punctures - I was astonished.

 

Whatever tyre I put on is likely to be more comfortable and have less roll-resistance than those on my 1993 Marin - I just want one that definitely isn't going to strand me 50 miles from home...

 

I have three sons. I have repaired a lot of punctures since the ones I got as a kid. I tried showing them hoping that they would take it up as some kind of challenge. No luck on that front...