Trying to Wire up Bafang Controller to Ping Battery ?

[tepol]

Hello,

I recently acquired a ( golden trek ) " mars " ebike that has 160 mm ( Bafang I think ) wide motor/gear cluster/drum brake set up.

This my first DIY attempt and so I m not really sure about some of the things correctly wire up other than its going to require some soldering .

Its specifically about this then ( soldering ) I wanted to ask about first of all as all the wires on the controller are already connected apart from 2 that look blue banana plugs you can see towards the bottom left below.

Con1 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Am I correct in assuming then , that these are the 2 wires that I need to connect to the Ping battery ?

Also whether red and black wires shown in the picture below ( as I cant see any others) are the ones that need to be soldered / modified in order to get them to connect to the other other wires i just mentioned ?

ping2 | Flickr - Photo Sharing!


thanks

tepol

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You're correct. The two thick red and black wires with bullet connectors on are the power connections for the controller. They should be connected to the corresponding red and black wires from the battery. It's best to use connectors rather than solder direct in case of problems. Also, you should consider fitting an in-line fuse of about 25 amps in the red wire if there isn't already one in the battery.

 

[tepol]

You're correct. The two thick red and black wires with bullet connectors on are the power connections for the controller. They should be connected to the corresponding red and black wires from the battery. It's best to use connectors rather than solder direct in case of problems. Also, you should consider fitting an in-line fuse of about 25 amps in the red wire if there isn't already one in the battery.

Yes,

I was going to just get the same bullet connectors ( whatever size they are ) to use .

I just assumed I would need still need to solder them on like with parallel ones on the battery http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVLJRnDERu0

but then I saw this " crimp-on " which looks a lot easier but perhaps has bigger drawbacks ?

YouTube - Wiring Bullet Connectors - HWFCI

in- line fuse ah , ok

Do I need to have this closer towards the battery , or does it matter ?

Thanks Again

tepol

 

[Deleted member 4366]

It doesn't matter where you put the fuse, but you want to make sure that it's where you can reach it to change it, if necessary.

I would get one of those packs of car fuses from the Poundshop; solder two short thick wires to one (you could cut them off the battery); and solder a bullet to each end (male and female); then clip it between the battery and controller. Make sure that it's insulated. If the fuse ever blows, you can unclip it and clip in a spare that you've prepared.

Always solder your connectors: Crimping is not reliable enough and doesn't always make a good enough contact for the large currents involved.

As a general rule, you shouldn't put two male connectors on a battery (or any power source for that matter). A male and female is OK, or a double female, otherwise you can get a short-circuit when they wave about in the air and touch something - or each other - and with a Lipo, like in the video, it would be a disaster.

 

[tepol]

Is this sort of thing your talking about looking for in pound shop

YouTube - In line 12 gauge fuse holder

or more like the sort i see here in maplin ?

Universal InLine Fuseholder : InLine Fuseholders : Maplin

Apparently someone claims here

Prodriver Car Fuse Set - £1 *Instore* @ Poundland - HotUKDeals

That using one of these cheaper fuses melted all the connectors in his car .

I dont mind paying extra if thats the case rather than take the risk if they dont blow on time, has any one else here had experinces in using these cheaper fuses ?

tepol

 

[Deleted member 4366]

All the above suggestions will do the job. It depends how much money that you want to spend. The car fuses that you get in Poundland (or wherever) are just fuses - no holders, and they have flat spade ends to which you can solder wires/bulluets to. With the bullets, they work out at about 20p (or less) if you make more than one or you already have the bits. To make one, you have to buy a whole card of fuses for £1, so the Maplin ready-made one might be cheaper, but you'll probably have to buy the 25amp fuse seperately. I only suggested this method as the cheapest and most convenient way of making fuses. Heres a picture of them:
Blackspur 36pc Car Fuses | Blade Car Fuse

The guy that claimed a fuse melted his connections probably forgot to mention that he already had a short circuit or overload, which caused the previous fuse to blow, so he put in a much higher value one, which couldn't blow, and the excessive current caused melt-down. It's not possible for a fuse to cause wires to melt, so I wouldn't take too much notice of that.

 

[tepol]

All the above suggestions will do the job. It depends how much money that you want to spend. The car fuses that you get in Poundland (or wherever) are just fuses - no holders, and they have flat spade ends to which you can solder wires/bulluets to. With the bullets, they work out at about 20p (or less) if you make more than one or you already have the bits. To make one, you have to buy a whole card of fuses for £1, so the Maplin ready-made one might be cheaper, but you'll probably have to buy the 25amp fuse seperately. I only suggested this method as the cheapest and most convenient way of making fuses. Heres a picture of them:
Blackspur 36pc Car Fuses | Blade Car Fuse

The guy that claimed a fuse melted his connections probably forgot to mention that he already had a short circuit or overload, which caused the previous fuse to blow, so he put in a much higher value one, which couldn't blow, and the excessive current caused melt-down. It's not possible for a fuse to cause wires to melt, so I wouldn't take too much notice of that.

Hi ,

Im sure , like you say then , theyd be fine.

After checking with some other Ping users who were good enough to reply it turns out really that the BMS should reallytake care of things without needing to add a fuse.

That just leaves me with the connectors which i was going to solder until I heard that crimping would probably be be a better option.

The only problem is it would mean changing the current connectors on the controller / shortening the wire ( which is prob 6 inches ) if that any way.

tepol

 

[banbury frank]

Hi Tepol

Try the link below

Anderson connectors can be soldered on .

Made in USA can Handel 30 amps

you can order 5 red 5 black they are NOT male and female

30 amp Powerpole - Red & Black pack of 10 - Torberry Connectors Online Shop



Frank

 

[tepol]

Hi Tepol

Try the link below

Anderson connectors can be soldered on .

Made in USA can Handel 30 amps

you can order 5 red 5 black they are NOT male and female

30 amp Powerpole - Red & Black pack of 10 - Torberry Connectors Online Shop



Frank

hey Frank,

The folk at ES forum mentioned this , my only worry is my hand strength aint that great , ( i stuggle opening jars ) but im not so bad if i have something to push down against with my palm as opposed to squeezig between fingers / thumb .

Maybe using clamp with longer handled crimper in place while I push down , unless theres such a thing as a affordable portable one..

soemthing like this maybe

Hydraulic Crimping Tool of KuDos Hydraulic Crimping Tools Manufacturers, Suppliers

tepol

 

[banbury frank]

Hi

you can solder them on no problem with a 50 watt iron

Frank