Thanks for that ...I was intrigued as to how this worked ...possible cause of problems on my bike, which has display powered up, and front/rear lights, but no power to the motor ...could also be the brake switch/controller mosfets/motor hall sensors I guess.It's a hall sensor with a capacitor to remove interference. The black wire is ground, red 5v and the third wire is the signal wire that should switch when a magnet with the correct field orientation passes in the correct direction.
Often, either a pull-up or pull-down resistor is needed to switch the hall sensor back to its original state. That resistor could be directly attached to the sensor, though not in your case, or it could be in the controller pcb, or it could be integrated into the sensor itself.
So, connect 5v and check the resting state of the signal wire. If it's high, connect a 5k or 10k resistor between the signal and 5v, then wave the magnet around the sensor until you find the direction and orientation that makes it switch. If the signal rests low, put the resistor between ground and signal. You can try without the resistor first, but if you get inconsistent results, you need it for testing.
I doubt that the sensor would cause problems unless the magnet is too far away or too close. Everything else has to be tested. Start by checking that there's 5v on the red wire. If not, the controller isn't switched on even if the LCD is. When MOSFETs blow, you normally get a tick or twitch from the motor when the controller tries to give power, or the battery cuts out due to one being shorted.Thanks for that ...I was intrigued as to how this worked ...possible cause of problems on my bike, which has display powered up, and front/rear lights, but no power to the motor ...could also be the brake switch/controller mosfets/motor hall sensors I guess.
Isn't that TranzX's M25 motor? IIRC that was notoriously unreliable, so much so it was routinely/frequently replaced in the US and didn't stay in production very long....EBCO UCL-60 ebike...