Totally newbie looking for advice

[KeenCamper]

Hi, I've been cycling to work on a fairly flat route for a while on MTB. I start a new job in a couple of weeks. Distance slightly shorter (5.5 miles each way). I don't think I'll be physically capable of the return leg - the total climb is about 300 feet. Hence I'm looking at e-bikes. Initially looked into getting the MTB converted. I've found someone who will do this and quoted in the region of £800 Would MTB-ing wreck the conversion anyway (I'm not extreme!).

So I'm looking at prices for e-bikes. A shop advised I'd need to spend at least £1,300. The very cheapest he'd recommend was £999 for a GTECH. He advised cheaper e-bikes used for daily commuting come back for repairs frequently as they are not tough enough.

Weight is a consideration, as we live in a second floor flat, so I'm carrying the bike up and down the stairs.

Is it really necessary to spend well over a grand? If I get a new e-bike I should be able to get cycle-to-work, which I couldn't get on the conversion.

 

[Nealh]

Buying <1k will do the job, it will be a hub motor. Look at reliable branded bikes from the likes of Woosh, Juicy, Kudos who have been selling ebikes for many years.
Alternately speak to Woosh abut converting your mtb.
For flatish 5.5mile journey look at the Woosh Karoo or Kudos offering.

 

[KeenCamper]

Hi Neal, thanks for answering, maybe I overcomplicated that, the flattish is no problem at all, it's when I change jobs and it is uphill the whole way on the way back.

Does your advice still stand?

 

[vfr400]

Have a look at www.E-bikesdirect.co.uk. They have many different brands at very reasonable prices. They have an excellent returns service too if you were unlucky enough to get any problems.

 

[Nealh]

Hi Neal, thanks for answering, maybe I overcomplicated that, the flattish is no problem at all, it's when I change jobs and it is uphill the whole way on the way back.

Does your advice still stand?

5.5 miles even with hills won't be an issue. Look for a bike with 5 levels of PAS, if the controller uses current control/torque control then each level of PAS will give more power. On flat parts PAS 1 or 2 is plenty power wise and then on hills use one of the other three power levels of PAS.

 

[KeenCamper]

Thanks very much Nealh and vfr400. I hadn't realized how much I enjoyed cycling to work until I started to think I might not be able to!

 

[Nealh]

Hub motors for commuting/road trips makes sense, typically hub driven bikes use a cadence sensor so if a bit tired or legs need a rest you can just ghost pedal to jog along at 12 -16mph. You can be even lazier with gear selection and not bother to change gears but instead just use higher PAS level/watts output to aid you along.

Hubs generally don't give many problems though every so often ( > 2k miles) a side case bearing may need replacing if a grinding noise if felt or heard.

 

[Fat Rat]

Hi welcome
Looks like you have plenty to choose from
Personally if I already had a bike I liked I would give the conversion route a go
Cheaper and you know what your getting mechanically

 

[KeenCamper]

Personally if I already had a bike I liked I would give the conversion route a go

Does anyone have any idea whether a conversion would be wrecked if actually used for MTB'ing? A few times a year we make it to a trail and we're up to green routes and bits of blue if that means much.

 

[Woosh]

Does anyone have any idea whether a conversion would be wrecked if actually used for MTB'ing? A few times a year we make it to a trail and we're up to green routes and bits of blue if that means much.

If the terrain is rough, you will need to strap the battery to the downtube, it's a question of prevention. If you convert with a hub motor, you need to pay attention to tyre and pressure. A crank drive conversion is probably more suitable for MTB terrains.

 

[Fat Rat]

Blue and green routes are really mild
I wouldn't personally see any issues with them and a kit at all