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too much torque

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I don't think my smallest sprocket is surviving the torque of my motor very well. Is this common on e-bikes?

 

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb78/fl_x/cog_zpsqanclngu.jpg

  • Author

Hi,

 

Its a Liberty Stealth, which i believe is a U.S version of the ProRider e-voyager with some minor tweaks like disc brakes.

  • Author
No, its a rear hub motor. I'm the mid motor part :)
I though so much from the image. I have never seen this on a hub drive bike, there isn't any power going through the chain drive apart from the rider's. It's probably down to poor adjustment.

Edited by Wisper Bikes

  • Author
Everything seems pretty well aligned and there are no odd noises or rubbing. I thought that too. its got a lot of torque, but the stress on the sprocket is due to me pedalling not the motor.
  • Author
5th gear is looking a little bit twisted too, but nowhere near as bad as 6th. The rest are fine, but its fairly rare i'll ever drop into 4th.
It looks well used, so maybe time to change the freewheel or cassette. Sorry I cant be more helpful but I am sure it has nothing to do with the bike being electric.
  • Author
other than it being a shimano set i don't know much more. Its likely one of the budget end ones
  • Author

Will probably have to replace it at some point. Its not slipping or anything. do you think it will snap the chain?

They only have 6mths of use on them so not a great lifespan.

I don't think my smallest sprocket is surviving the torque of my motor very well. Is this common on e-bikes?

thats the one.

 

In that case the only torque load on the cassette is from you.

I guess Ian Stannard could produce too much torque, you're not Ian are you?

 

https://www.strava.com/activities/597034291#14541649296

 

I'd put a decent chain on at the same time, because the bike is so long a bike shop will cut one off the roll for you, most boxed ones could be too short.

Edited by Artstu

  • Author

haha no, not quite. It does require a lot of effort and perseverance keeping it anywhere near 20mph though.

If i'm going to change the sprockets/chain i'd ideally like to increase the gearing at the same time. gears 1-4 are never used and 6 spins out too early.

Your chainwheel is quite small, very small by my standards, forcing you to the smaller freewheel socket to get high enough gearing. Hence the spinning out too early you report.

 

If you change the chainwheel to one with many more teeth you'll be able to use the larger rear sprockets much more and spend far less time on the smallest one which wears the fastest.

.

Looks like 26" wheels which will give lower gearing than 27.5 or 29er.

 

The OP is probably spinning a fairly high cadence at 20mph.

 

As flecc says, a bigger ring on the front would be a sensible mod.

  • Author
Better a few more teeth on the front then than a few less on the back?
Better a few more teeth on the front then than a few less on the back?

 

I'd imagine your top gear is as small as you can go anyway.

 

I've been trying to find a close-up of the chainset to see if it's riveted, but have drawn a blank. Is chainring riveted or bolted on?

As Stu says, the cassette probably has the smallest possible ring already which is usually 11, although I think there are a couple of 10s at the higher end of cassette pricing.

 

Time for you to do some teeth counting.

  • Author

I will check tonight, but i've a feeling it might be riveted.

The cover in front of it doesnt seem to have anything to unbolt, so i'd guess the pedal and crank will need removed to get at it. Will need to look whats needed for that. Plenty of motorbike tools, not so much for bicycles.

  • Author

looks like there is maybe access to bolts from the rear..

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb78/fl_x/ebike_zpsy3bisz85.jpg

Better a few more teeth on the front then than a few less on the back?

 

Yes always. Less wear and higher efficiency, the chain not having to turn so tightly around small sprockets.

.

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