To build or not to build ?

[Cyclezee]

Hi Tom,

That is an excellent and ingenious solution to a potential problem.
Although no one has reported a problem so far with the Freewheels I have fitted or supplied, I am seriously considering supplying a bearing with future orders.

The problem would be the spacer which would have to fit axles with different ODs.
Did you consider plastic tubing or pipe as an alternative to steel?
I am wondering if using uPVC or ABS pipe which was a snug fit inside the bearing and packing the remaining gap with something like RTV silicone would work?
The Freewheel would still be removable and the silicone would act as a shock absorber.

 

[indalo]

Stop! Spelling police here Mr Cyclezee.

Surely not "igneous"......? Well, not unless you have a burning ambition to harm some of your customers...emmm, I'll just melt away now.

Indalo

 

[indalo]

That is an excellent and igneous solution to a potential problem.

Stop! Spelling police here Mr Cyclezee.

Surely not "igneous"......? Well, not unless you have a burning ambition to harm some of your customers...emmm, I'll just melt away now.

Indalo

 

[flecc]

That's a bad stutter you've got there Indalo.

 

[Cyclezee]

Sorry Indy,

Can you repeat that one more time please and little louder, not being a native I find your language quite difficult

 

[mxer125]

Hi Tom,

That is an excellent and ingenious solution to a potential problem.
Although no one has reported a problem so far with the Freewheels I have fitted or supplied, I am seriously considering supplying a bearing with future orders.

The problem would be the spacer which would have to fit axles with different ODs.
Did you consider plastic tubing or pipe as an alternative to steel?
I am wondering if using uPVC or ABS pipe which was a snug fit inside the bearing and packing the remaining gap with something like RTV silicone would work?
The Freewheel would still be removable and the silicone would act as a shock absorber.

Hi TBH I don't think it's a commercial option, I will get to that in a minute, The freewheel you supplied is a fantastic quality piece that saved me alot of grief messing with the chainring and is a perfectly servicable item as is, fitted... It was my choice to fit it, but at the time of fitting i had been reading alot of Hub threads shearing (sp?) ...None directly identified to the DNP....
On fittment i thought to myself there is not alot of support within the freewheels tunneling, and would like to support it somehow to minimse potential hub damage...

The bearing is not ideal being a standard 6803 with a 26mm od and the freewheels id is 26.5 so it drops in and drops out again, which is good for me as i was paraniod of getting it out again (me too Scotty,Lol)....So i lined it with insulation tape 1.5x for a snug fit (not ideal for customers) the bearing is held inplace with the shim/spacer as it is pressed into place as you can see from the photo...

Send me your addy and i will post you a bearing tommorrow you can have a play yourself (pahaps make a very thin plastic housing ?), As for plastic tubing this is not an option as the spacers are under emence preasure from the cranking on the axle nuts and fit's against the shoulder of the axle (See photo).. For me it's a piece of mind mod and is far from commercial due to the heath robinson style tape that is needed for a snug fit on the freewheel, but i guarantee it is giving vital support under high pressure pedaling...

 

[Cyclezee]

Hi Tom, that is really kind gesture, but you really don't need to send me one.

I see what you mean about the Heath Robinson aspect, from a commercial point of view, I was thinking of it as adding value, but it would need to be a precision fit.

Did the articles you read specify what speed the Freewheels were that failed, I am wondering if it might have been the 8 or 9 speeds that are more likely to fail?

 

[mxer125]

There are a few threads started on ES on sheared hubs, this is the only one I know comfirmed with an 11t dnp freewheel, because i asked him and was my inspiration to fit support, If you ask me it can happen with any freewheel, as said earlier, cassettes are far more supprted and stronger

 

[Scottyf]

I think it's a good idea and anything that cost a couple of pound to ensure a potentially failure is avoided is great. So well done on getting something to work.

I don't think it would work with my shimano though due to the spline not being fully round in the free wheel as the locking tool would fit in it.

So far it's not been an issue but I guess it depends how hard you pedal in what gear. Failure is probably due to fatigue than anything I would imagine.

Don't stand on the pedals pushing down with the rear brake locked and in your lowest gear on the inner chain ring ;-)

 

[mxer125]

No, You would not need to fit with a Shimano, I'm guessing you do not have the deep unsupported tunneling the DNP has 1" to 1.5" on the shimano ..... So it's not needed. But yes you have it spot on, If you need to pedel hard i would use a higher gear so the stresses are over the thread on the hub instead of pulling away from it down in the lower gears...
But we have to remember here and i do not want to cause any concerns as stated there has been no known issue's here, so it's proberly just me being paraniod...

and also i feel larger hub sizes would be more vunauble (Me), the smaller hubs which most run i would say are strong and would be fine with any freewheel...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You could make the bearing a tightish fit in the BPM motor and other ones with a screwed on side-plate because you should be able to remove the screws in the side plate and tap the rest of the motor off leaving just the side-plate, bearing and free-wheel. The bearing could then be tapped out from the other side.

 

[Scottyf]

Indeed I thought of that afterwards. Might even help with the cracking axel issue as your spreading some of that weight across more of the axel.

I always felt screw on cassettes looked a bit vunerable due to the screw on bit on the hub not really being that thick. But I guess the design would be a rotational torque from the chain and freewheel movement rather than weight being applied.

Either way its a good idea and for the costs its simple enough to apply and forget.

Maybe if the gear was low enough and your legs / weight and gear ratio was low enough you could get it to crack.
I would imagine it would be more down to the axel / cassette and spacers being not a tight fit and allowing side to side movement between the rear frame drop outs.

That or maybe peoples legs can't generate enough physical power to shear it clean off.

 

[mxer125]

Another help question needed...

I would like to get rid of my Turnigy meter now i have the settings i want, and replace it with just a volt meter... I have this one here LINK I have a 5v battery but is there anyway of tapping into anything for 5v on or off the controller, I am happy to open up the controller but would be nice if somethings external...

Many thanks in advance...

Edit, It's an infineon EB209 board, If it helps ?

 

[Scottyf]

Throttle has a +5v wire.
I think the low level brake cut outs also have +5v lines.

 

[mxer125]

That's great, I will have a go, I have a spare brake line may tap of that, don't fancy messing with the throttle line, but if all else fails throttle it is ....

Thanks...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Another help question needed...

I would like to get rid of my Turnigy meter now i have the settings i want, and replace it with just a volt meter... I have this one here LINK I have a 5v battery but is there anyway of tapping into anything for 5v on or off the controller, I am happy to open up the controller but would be nice if somethings external...

Many thanks in advance...

Edit, It's an infineon EB209 board, If it helps ?

This one doesn't need an additional power supply. Just connect it directly to your battery.
Blue LCD Volt Meter Gauge DC 16V-60V For 24V 48V Power | eBay

For the one you suggested, you might be able to splice in to the throttle or pedal sensor for your 5v. It depends on how much current the meter draws

 

[mxer125]

That one does look a better option, MMmmm don't know if i like the idea of taping into the throttles 5v source ? I do have a brand new 5v camera battery i just picked up from boots in the 50p bargain bucket so may just use that for now til i need to charge it again (that'll be another question lol.....).

My infineon has no pedlec option but i will see if there is any life from the brake cut off switches..

 

[Scottyf]

Brake cut out might be the optimum one really.
Or powering it with 4x nimh batteries in series could be another option.

But the main question is how much current it will take. As the rest of the lines from the controller have no real current passing through them. Just signals. Might cause all kinds of controller errors.

Can it be slightly over the 5v or slightly under? You could use a charged 18560 li-ion cell.or even run it off one of the balance taps on the lipo.